99 Taurus won't crank or start

[amrus_007]

I've got a 99 Taurus - one morning after returning from work the prior day, I attempted to start the car - nothing - car wouldn't crank. I have so far replaced/checked the following:
Battery (replaced)
Starter solenoid
Transmission range sensor (neutral lock)
Ignition switch
Starter relays

I am starting to think it has something to do with the PATS system, but don't understand how to diagnose. I'd like to bypass the system in it's entirety, but don't know how. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks

(as a reference, I can turn the engine over if I run a wire from the positive terminal of my battery to the solenoid - but I don't obtain spark or any fuel from the fuel pump).

[KVCC#1]

I know it sounds stupid and simple, but try cleaning the inside of the wire leads on the battery. It could work and it might not make a difference, but it's worth a shot.

[~manuel~]

Originally Posted by amrus_007

I've got a 99 Taurus - one morning after returning from work the prior day, I attempted to start the car - nothing - car wouldn't crank. I have so far replaced/checked the following:
Battery (replaced)
Starter solenoid
Transmission range sensor (neutral lock)
Ignition switch
Starter relays

I am starting to think it has something to do with the PATS system, but don't understand how to diagnose. I'd like to bypass the system in it's entirety, but don't know how. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks

(as a reference, I can turn the engine over if I run a wire from the positive terminal of my battery to the solenoid - but I don't obtain spark or any fuel from the fuel pump).

i believe the theft light starts flashing quickly when you attempt to start the vehicle if the PATS is detecting theft.

[amrus_007]

Originally Posted by KVCC#1

I know it sounds stupid and simple, but try cleaning the inside of the wire leads on the battery. It could work and it might not make a difference, but it's worth a shot.

Thanks for the idea - wasn't the battery post or leads on the cables. I believe it was a bad wire in the ignition system. I ended up jerry-rigging it - running two circuits with two switches:

1) from the solenoid to the battery and back to a switch in the cab (this allows me to crank the engine)

2) a wire from the battery to the ignition fuse and to a different switch in the cab (this energizes the system).

I was going to try to find the bad wire in the main harness, however, after opening the harness and seeing all the wires, I rejected that and went with the addition of two switches. Works fine - although not quite to "factory specifications"