Accord redline problem

[kbtopdog]

Wassup fellow Honda Fanatics, Im new to the forum, yall can call me BLACK. I need some serious help with my 94 accord sohc vtec. when i first got it it redline at about 5000 with no vtec. Then i adjusted the distributor and now it redlines at 5500, but it is suppose to redline at 6200-6500. My check engine light is on, but one day while the car was on I fliped the key off and on and the check engine light came off and the vtec started engaiging but weak. When i do that it still redlines at 5500, so what can be the problem. They told me it was my ecu, then my distributor, then my timing,and my O2 sensor, did any body have similar problems and can you help.

[deaz]

So what, the problem if that your vtec isn't engaging?

Thats simple enough to check... The first thing I'd do is disc. the vtec control solenoid, and take a jumper wire from your battery and plug it into the connector. (Should be a 1 wire connector), and make sure you hear it click. If it doesn't then either the grounding on it is bad, or the solenoid is bad...
If it does click, then moving on...
Remove the vtec control solenoid, then pull off the the vtec oil solenoid(I believe that is what it is called) and there should be a little filter thing right around there... Just pull it off, and make sure its clean. If you aren't anal about changing your oil, or use really really cheap oil, then it probably would be clogged up. If its dirty, clean it, and while you're at it, since the car is a bit on the older side, might as well replace the o-rings too for both the solenoid. If however, it is clean, then check the voltage, and resistance going into the vtec oil solenoid. Not sure where the connector is for that, but it should be somewhere... And also not really sure what the voltage should be for that either... I'm assuming 12 volts, but I could be wrong. I'm pulling this all from memory...

Now, if its just the problem of your car not redlining correctly, do you mean that the rpm limiter kicks in and keeps it from going any faster, or the car is just lacking the power to hit 6200-6500 rpm. since your car is prior obdII, I'd suggest jumping the diagnostic connectors and finding out what that check engine code was...

Also, you said you adjusted the distributor? How, by advancing the timing on it(or retarding it)? It might be best to get a timing light and making sure it's adjusted properly.

[kbtopdog]

Originally Posted by deaz

So what, the problem if that your vtec isn't engaging?

Thats simple enough to check... The first thing I'd do is disc. the vtec control solenoid, and take a jumper wire from your battery and plug it into the connector. (Should be a 1 wire connector), and make sure you hear it click. If it doesn't then either the grounding on it is bad, or the solenoid is bad...
If it does click, then moving on...
Remove the vtec control solenoid, then pull off the the vtec oil solenoid(I believe that is what it is called) and there should be a little filter thing right around there... Just pull it off, and make sure its clean. If you aren't anal about changing your oil, or use really really cheap oil, then it probably would be clogged up. If its dirty, clean it, and while you're at it, since the car is a bit on the older side, might as well replace the o-rings too for both the solenoid. If however, it is clean, then check the voltage, and resistance going into the vtec oil solenoid. Not sure where the connector is for that, but it should be somewhere... And also not really sure what the voltage should be for that either... I'm assuming 12 volts, but I could be wrong. I'm pulling this all from memory...

Now, if its just the problem of your car not redlining correctly, do you mean that the rpm limiter kicks in and keeps it from going any faster, or the car is just lacking the power to hit 6200-6500 rpm. since your car is prior obdII, I'd suggest jumping the diagnostic connectors and finding out what that check engine code was...

Also, you said you adjusted the distributor? How, by advancing the timing on it(or retarding it)? It might be best to get a timing light and making sure it's adjusted properly.

WHAT DO I CLEAN THE VTEC SOLENOID WITH? THE REV LIMITER KICKS IN AT 5500rpm. Someone with the same problem told me it could be my idle control sensor, my map sensor, or my intake manifold is leaking

[deaz]

You don't clean the vtech solenoid... You clean the filter for the oil control solenoid. You can't miss it, its a little plastic mesh-like thing that goes between the valve cover and the oil control solenoid. However, I would certainly pull the codes for your car and check it out.
If it is a vtech problem, it could be causing your car to redline early. Ie, a short where it was always getting voltage to the solenoid. But this would also cause the car to have very poor performance at lower speeds.


Have you tried to see if you hear any clicking noises when you jumper the solenoid?


Also, if you wanna see whether or not it is a solenoid problem, you could always just disconnect the solenoid, and then rev the engine and see what happens.

[AccordCodger]

Naiive question. Is "redline" [rpm] usually used to mean "when the RPM governor stops the revs rising any more?"

I thought it was literally where the rev counter red band starts. (Which would, obviously, always be at the same RPM)

[raceya]

sorry for such question, but I just wanted to clarify for myeslf... jumper wire is what polarity? I want to check mine because I don't hear or feel vtec kick in... Im new to vtec so maybe I don't know what Im looking for. so as I'm understanding, the car will work all the way to redline even if vtec doesn't work? Also, any suggestions as to why my gas milage sucks? Im getting around 21mpg with a lot of highway driving. Its 2.2l 5spd, 96k milage, 1997.

Originally Posted by deaz

So what, the problem if that your vtec isn't engaging?

Thats simple enough to check... The first thing I'd do is disc. the vtec control solenoid, and take a jumper wire from your battery and plug it into the connector. (Should be a 1 wire connector), and make sure you hear it click. If it doesn't then either the grounding on it is bad, or the solenoid is bad...

[deaz]

Well, the vtec solenoid is grounded. ( like I said, the connector should only be one wire), so you want to hook up a jumper wire to the positve battery terminal...

Now, if your in a manual, and you have the clutch in, and rev the engine, it SHOULD always rev up until the rev limiter kicks in(which is what I'm assuming you mean by redline.)

And as far as gas milage, it all depends on how you drive your car, and what accessories you have running at the time...
If you use the a/c, you're gas milage will drop. If you use a lot of power in your car, your alternator will end up sucking up more gas also.

It could also simply just need a tuneup(replace spark plugs, air filter, change oil to 5w-10, so on) Also, have you checked your distributer cap and your rotor? If they've never been replaced, it wouldn't hurt to replace them, if its needed. The rotor itself is dirt cheap, and never hurts to replace it if it looks worn.

[kbtopdog]

Yesterday I took my car to the mechanic to have the check engine light looked at. The mechanic hooked my car up to the computer but for some reason the computer wasn't able to detect my car at all. It wasn't getting a reading from the sensor he plugged the computer into. He said my car could have an electrical problem which i doubt, or my ecu could be bad, he also stated that it was weird my check engine light turned off when you turn the ignition off and then on quickly. I NEED SOME SERIOUS HELP NOW, i dont know what else to do.