K & N FIPK - Issues - Bad Fuel economy/ Bogged engine

[starla3366]

I Installed the K & N FIPK. Thinking that I may save a tiny bit of gas (considering these ridiculous gas prices). Well, I was wrong. My gas mileage went down. It went down, from 18.3 to 15.4, in a matter of 4 months. Kind of made me sick when I did the math. Also, I noticed that when I'm at a complete stand still and I punch the gas, I don't feel the engine at it's full potentional until around 25 mph then I feel a jerk and the damn thing cooks a lot better than when I had the Factory Air Kit installed. So, I know the FIPK is giving me those H.P. I was looking for, but only after about 25 mph. And it's not In accordance with the RPM's. It's does this in the whole RPM range. I know the FIPK don't give me nothing until around 3,500 RPM. The engine just feels bogged down when I punch it. It really bothers me, considering I've spent all that money on this FIPK and it's shown me nothing but problems (Fuel economy problems that is). I understand thant I need a AFTERMARKET MUFFLER, but I think I'll still have the problems after I put it on.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't INCORRECTLY GAPPED sparkplugs cause this problem I got. (Bad fuel economy/Bogged engine) I'd hate to say that I did this to myself considering I change the plugs about a year ago this month. I installed the new plugs without checking the gap. So, I'm a little nervous I installed the new plugs with a bad gap.

Please inform me to Remove and Replace (R and R) the spark plugs if you think that's what my problem is. If you think it's something else, then let me know, as I will greatly appriciate the comments.

[BlazerBoyLT98]

You are right! Your plugs are not properly gapped and is causing your issues! I would replace the plugs and gap them to the correct specs for your year. Please use the search on this forum and you will find the correct plugs and gap to use. Good luck

ps never over oil your K & N air filter or any other aftermarket air filter you can oil. May cause engine and transmission trouble. There is a post on that also in this nothing but great website.

[starla3366]

Right

I thought it be the spark plugs, I just wanted a second or even 4 more opinions on the issue.

Anyone reccomend using some "SEAFOAM" prior to doing the spark plug change. I know the gap is in the maintance instruction manual. If I remember correctly I think off the top of my head it may be .060. But don't take my word on that.

Anyone else agree with "BLAZERBOY" and I, that it's the spark plug (gap).

[BlazerLT]

You might be seeing the difference because of two things:

1.) You plugs need to be changed. Use AC delco Platinum ONLY gapped at 0.060.

2.) You might need to do a tuneup. Visit this thread:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=453370

3.) You might have to spray brake cleaner through your MAF sensor. You have to clean the oil that might be on you MAF sensor filament wires.

Let me know about these things listed above.

[Cailen]

You didn't change anything with your spark plugs, so I would tend to lean towards the MAF sensor. K&N are notorious for this.

[starla3366]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

You might be seeing the difference because of two things:

1.) You plugs need to be changed. Use AC delco Platinum ONLY gapped at 0.060.

2.) You might need to do a tuneup. Visit this thread:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=453370

3.) You might have to spray brake cleaner through your MAF sensor. You have to clean the oil that might be on you MAF sensor filament wires.

Let me know about these things listed above.

LT,

For my tune up list I need:

-Cap/Rotor and wires

-Differential Fluid and transfer case oil change (I'm going Synthetic)

-I want to clean out the entire upper plenum, Completely clean it, I mean remove the whole damn thing and sand blast it.

-I need a new muffler (seriously can't make up my mind on which one)

-O2 sensors? Really? I feel a little hesitant on this part (any particular brand you reccomend that is better than some cheap OEM)

-I just put in a full bottle of Techron (I've heard a lot of good things about Techron) I think I may use that 3M Fuel Injector cleaner also.

-Goodwin Chevorelet just did a Cooling system flush. (Assholes put in DEXCOOL after I told them not too, it's their lose, not mine) I didn't pay a damn thing for it!!! Thermostat in good shape, with no leaks.


-MAF sensor is being cleaned as I type.



I removed the FIPK today, just because I had some Warranty inspection on it. They won't like it if I had the FIPK on it. Void the warranty. Anyway, I think I am going to leave it off for the time being. I put the cone on my 93 Lumina, She is mean now!!!!!

I know LT has made this tread (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=453370) for a reason. I understand that I didn't have to start this thread I got going here. But I really wanted some opinions on the spark plugs. I still feel sketchy about it.


All other Tune up options have been completed. At least the major fuel economy options have been done. This truck just put on 75,000. I started tunning her up at about 65,000. I think I should be complete by 80,000.



BLAZERLT,
you asked for the report, and you recieved the report. Thanks, MOD!!!!

[BlazerLT]

your plugs might just need to be removed, gapped, cleaned and reinstalled again.

Muffler should be a straight through design with minimal baffles and deflectors.

Remember to change your PCV valve and your fuel filter.

Also, remember that Dexcool is not the problem, the crappy rad cap is what actually causes it. Replace you rad cap with a stant and you will be perfectly fine. Don't buy into the Dexcool bashing garbadge.

Also, don't go overboard and remove and clean your plenum, you are going way beyond what is needed.

[ZL1power69]

i installed an fipk on my 95 and got a little better gas milege. haven't had a problem but its a MAP system. i may be wrong but on MAF trucks the FIPK throws the calibration off. LT, did u notice a difference in economy with the FIPK? also, isn't .60 gap to wide for the plugs? under the hood it says .45 but I heard there was a bulliten/recall that it should be .35.

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by ZL1power69

i installed an fipk on my 95 and got a little better gas milege. haven't had a problem but its a MAP system. i may be wrong but on MAF trucks the FIPK throws the calibration off. LT, did u notice a difference in economy with the FIPK? also, isn't .60 gap to wide for the plugs? under the hood it says .45 but I heard there was a bulliten/recall that it should be .35.

We don't use 0.060 in our trucks.

0.045 is what we use.

Where is this bulletin where they said 0.035??

[ZL1power69]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

We don't use 0.060 in our trucks.

0.045 is what we use.

Where is this bulletin where they said 0.035??

i was told this at the local GMC dealer a while back when i was pricing the cpi unit. i told them i was also doing a tuneup and they said to make sure to gap the plugs at .35 and not .45. they said there was some bulletin or something like that a while back that said .45 was a little too wide.

please correct me if this is wrong, lol.

[BlazerLT]

I would stick to 0.045 bud.

If he doesn't have the paper there to show you, he could have been mistaken.

I have 0.045 and I have no problems.

[00BLZRMyWay]

I know you know a lot LT, but, I must question you.
1. On your "better economy" page, you said that the fuel filter should be changed, regardless of mileage. At the gas station that I fill up with, the Premium is double filtered and I know for a fact that if you use that fuel only, from that gas station only, it is very rarely that you have to ever change your filter. It is just that clean.
2. You said that higher octane will do nothing for performance or economy. As for economy, I can agree, it doesn't help. It does burn up faster. But performance-wise, I noticed a BIG difference. That's probably why it burns up quicker for me though!
3. I was told that Platinum plugs don't need to be changed untill 100,000 miles.
4. Tranny fluid, as recently posted, http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=461182, should be every 15-30,000. (depending on conditions)
5. And finally, this could be wrong, but I was told by two mechanic's, ASE Cert. & all, that O2 sensors on my Blazer (2000 4.3 V-6 Vortec) don't need changing untill 100,000 miles, unless I get the rotten egg smell, but by this point, this would mean an O2 sensor failed and destroyed the catilytic converter as well.
Oh, almost forgot. Don't all spark plugs, when requested for specific vehicles, already come pre-gapped? As far as I know, manufacturers like Bosch, make their plugs pre-gapped and impossible to change. I may be wrong. And I may not be. What's your take?

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by 00BLZRMyWay

I know you know a lot LT, but, I must question you.

Hey, be my guest, i have no problem helping you with your concerns.

Originally Posted by 00BLZRMyWay

1. On your "better economy" page, you said that the fuel filter should be changed, regardless of mileage. At the gas station that I fill up with, the Premium is double filtered and I know for a fact that if you use that fuel only, from that gas station only, it is very rarely that you have to ever change your filter. It is just that clean.

Ok, first of all, don't use premium in your Blazer, it is not made for that type of engine, it is tuned for 87 octane and has knock sensors to all it to run perfectly with that octane.

Secondly, fuel filter contamination does not only come from the gas stations, it could come from anything within you fuel system. And to be honest, I wouldn't trust a gas stations filters and seing the filter is $6, why wouldn'y you want to change it every 40,000-50,000 miles. All I stated is that you change it every 40-50k or if that mileage is not met, replace it every two years or so.

Your fuel filter is VERY important and you will be amazed as to how many people never ever change it. This usually leads to poor performance and fuel economy seeing the engine will start to run lean, the engine will start to ping, and the computer will retard the timing.

Moral of the stary, replace your fuel filter properly and keep your engine receiving every ounce of fuel it is calling for.

Originally Posted by 00BLZRMyWay

2. You said that higher octane will do nothing for performance or economy. As for economy, I can agree, it doesn't help. It does burn up faster. But performance-wise, I noticed a BIG difference. That's probably why it burns up quicker for me though!

You are wasting your money. Our engines are just not tuned for that octance rating and you are just pouring your money away. The reason you think it is more powerful is purely mental unless you have a dyno sheet proving you are right.

If anything, you might see maybe 1-2 hp difference on this engine and reduced spark knock retard when the temperatures are really hot outside.

Originally Posted by 00BLZRMyWay

3. I was told that Platinum plugs don't need to be changed untill 100,000 miles.

This has been discussed around the web several times and you are right, those plugs will probably last to 100,000 miles. BUT, that doesn't mean you will have opitimal performance and fuel economy for those 100,000 miles as well.

Many people including some cars I have worked on have seen a huge difference even after 50-60k and having the plugs swapped out.

For the really low price you can get these plugs for, you don't have to go to that interval. Swap them out at max 70k and don't expose your engine to 30-40k worth of improper inefficient combustion.

Originally Posted by 00BLZRMyWay

4. Tranny fluid, as recently posted, http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=461182, should be every 15-30,000. (depending on conditions)

Well, changing your transmission fluid every 3 oil changes (15k) is a little wasteful. It won't harm anything but 30k is perfect to keep your tranmissions in order and nice and clean.

Originally Posted by 00BLZRMyWay

5. And finally, this could be wrong, but I was told by two mechanic's, ASE Cert. & all, that O2 sensors on my Blazer (2000 4.3 V-6 Vortec) don't need changing untill 100,000 miles, unless I get the rotten egg smell, but by this point, this would mean an O2 sensor failed and destroyed the catilytic converter as well.

You are right, 100,000 seems to be the sweet spot for them.

Here is more information on your O2 system.

http://www.autohausaz.com/html/emiss...n_sensors.html

Originally Posted by 00BLZRMyWay

Oh, almost forgot. Don't all spark plugs, when requested for specific vehicles, already come pre-gapped? As far as I know, manufacturers like Bosch, make their plugs pre-gapped and impossible to change. I may be wrong. And I may not be. What's your take?

Nope, one plug number is not made for your exact truck, it is made for a whole slew of engine and applications.

You ALWAYS gap the plugs before installation to make sure they are properly setup.

I hope I helped you.

[00BLZRMyWay]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Hey, be my guest, i have no problem helping you with your concerns.

I Know!

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Secondly, fuel filter contamination does not only come from the gas stations, it could come from anything within you fuel system. And to be honest, I wouldn't trust a gas stations filters and seing the filter is $6, why wouldn'y you want to change it every 40,000-50,000 miles. All I stated is that you change it every 40-50k or if that mileage is not met, replace it every two years or so.
Your fuel filter is VERY important and you will be amazed as to how many people never ever change it. This usually leads to poor performance and fuel economy seeing the engine will start to run lean, the engine will start to ping, and the computer will retard the timing.
Moral of the stary, replace your fuel filter properly and keep your engine receiving every ounce of fuel it is calling for.
You are wasting your money. Our engines are just not tuned for that octance rating and you are just pouring your money away. The reason you think it is more powerful is purely mental unless you have a dyno sheet proving you are right.

I do actually change the fuel filter about every 35,000 miles, sometimes less. Just had to get your opinion. BUT, My father-in-law took apart his fuel filter after about 20,000 miles and it was still brand new, seriously. IT WAS CLEAN! then again, that was only 20,000 miles and it was a Honda Gold-Wing.

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

This has been discussed around the web several times and you are right, those plugs will probably last to 100,000 miles. BUT, that doesn't mean you will have opitimal performance and fuel economy for those 100,000 miles as well.

Many people including some cars I have worked on have seen a huge difference even after 50-60k and having the plugs swapped out.

For the really low price you can get these plugs for, you don't have to go to that interval. Swap them out at max 70k and don't expose your engine to 30-40k worth of improper inefficient combustion.

I'll keep this in mind seeing how I am at +80,000. I'll go with your recommended AC Delco Platinum

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Well, changing your transmission fluid every 3 oil changes (15k) is a little wasteful. It won't harm anything but 30k is perfect to keep your tranmissions in order and nice and clean.

I'll stick to 30,000 now!

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

You are right, 100,000 seems to be the sweet spot for them.

Here is more information on your O2 system.

http://www.autohausaz.com/html/emiss...n_sensors.html.

*a teer slowly goes down his cheek* I feel honored by these words! LT telling ME that I am right! This Is a day to remember!

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Nope, one plug number is not made for your exact truck, it is made for a whole slew of engine and applications.

You ALWAYS gap the plugs before installation to make sure they are properly setup.

I'll keep this in mind as well!

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

I hope I helped you.

You did!

[BlazerLT]

Sounds like everything is in order and it seems that you know what you are doing.

If you have any further questions about oil, or maintanence, feel free to ask.