2000 Windstar Bleeding Brakes

[withoutaspace]

Sorry guys.. i know i should be reading a chilton or haynes to get info on this - but i ordered a manual but it's not in yet..

Brakes(pads and shoes) were changed, but the pedal is mush(sometimes when you pump it, it'll brake, other time very mushy and no braking power at all, thus leading me to believe the brakes need to be bled. I've read general instructions on bleeding general types of brake systems, but for a windstar, is there anything specific i need to know? what kind of method works best? pump brakes a few times, hold, remove bleeder, close bleeder, let up on brakes? Any help would be appreciated.

thanks in advance!

Scott,

[withoutaspace]

ahh and where is the bleeder screw? i checked just behind the drum and there's a rubber cap covering a bolt(it would appear), but it doesn't seem to be the bleeder screw, but correct me if im wrong

[LeSabre97mint]

[quote=withoutaspace]Sorry guys.. i know i should be reading a chilton or haynes to get info on this - but i ordered a manual but it's not in yet..

Brakes(pads and shoes) were changed, but the pedal is mush(sometimes when you pump it, it'll brake, other time very mushy and no braking power at all, thus leading me to believe the brakes need to be bled. I've read general instructions on bleeding general types of brake systems, but for a windstar, is there anything specific i need to know? what kind of method works best? pump brakes a few times, hold, remove bleeder, close bleeder, let up on brakes? Any help would be appreciated.

thanks in advance!

Scott,[/QUOT

Scott

Yes the bleeder is under the rubber cap. 10 mm wrench.

Start with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder. Have an assistant push the pedel down and hold it. Open the bleeder and watch what comes out. Solid fluid is good. Air is bad. Make sure the master clinder doesn't run out of fluid. Bleed all of the wheel.

Was the system opened up when you did the brake job?

Was the pedel mushy before the pad/shoe change?

If bleeding doesn't help the master cylinder may require changing.

If you have ABS and if air got into the pump you may need to take it to a shop with an interface for the ABS to get the air out.

Make sure you know what you're doing. You need to depend on the brakes.

Regards

Dan

[wiswind]

The rear bleeder screw is on the back side of the wheel cylinder....which is at the top of the metal plate that covers the back side of the brake shoes.....

The front bleeder screw is on the front side of the caliper for the front disk brakes. You want to have someone press the brake pedal (with the engine OFF). You will open the bleeder screw slightly to let air / fluid out.....the person pressing the brake pedal will hold the pedal down until you have tightened the bleeder screw back up.....don't over-tighten.

You will do this at each wheel....starting at the rear...passenger side.......
Then the rear Driver side.
Then the front passenger side
Then the front driver side.

Have a FRESH unopened bottle of brake fluid to add to the master cylinder to replace the fluid that you push out of each bleeder screw. You will want to check the master cylinder before doing the first bleed.....and then after each successive bleed.
If you run the master cylinder dry....you will have to do a lot of bleeding to get all the air out...as air will be pushed into the brake lines from the master cylinder.

If you still have a soft pedal after bleeding the brakes.....try bleeding them again. Make SURE that the person pressing the pedal does not lift up at all until the bleeder screw has been tightened....as that will draw more air into the lines....

If you do not get a firm pedal.....do not drive the car until it is repaired.....even if you have to have it towed to a shop. Better a tow bill than an accident. We are advising you of this....as it is impossible to be positive as to why you have a soft brake pedal from chatting over the net.

[road_rascal]

You may have to use a long funnel to add brake fluid to the master cylinder (I needed to on my '01). I would also suggest getting a Mityvac suction pump for flushing brake lines- much easier.

[withoutaspace]

Thanks a lot guys! When we replaced the brake shoes on the back(originally), and put em back together, the back drivers side started leaking brake fluid, so we took the drum off and the round cylinder had popped open so was leaking some fluid.. we put it back together(a spring, a cap and a rubber thing), and figured quite a bit of air got in that way.. I'll just go around bleeding them all, and see if it gets any better. When i looked at them last night.. they worked some of the time, and the rest the pedal was mush, and didn't wanna give any braking at all.

Im not planning on driving it like that, way too dangerous if they cut out completely.. I'll try bleeding them, then, if not, off to a professional

Thanks again guys! you're awesome