Heater core leaking...ouch

[shawnira]

I changed out my thermastat>>>>(from a prev. thread). For a week the truck ran great. This morn, windows fogged, and I have anti-freeze in the cab.

OK, it's the heater core. Now, I find I can cut out the back of the glove to get to what I think are the last 2 screws to get the cowling off, or...

......(as the "cheap" repair book (w/o any "how to"), "remove/reposition the dash", to get to them. If I get the cowling off, looks easy to replace the core, but a mech. quoted (and stated he dosen't do them due to the dashboard time and cost) $300-$400.

Seems if I can get to the removal of the cowling.....not much trouble, but the mech's "good luck" send off has me worried I might start something I regret.

Note...1. Can't afford the quote.
2. NEED the vehicle!!!!!
3. If I have to mess with the dash, any/all help (knowledge) is greatly appreciated!
4.Thought about cutting through the glove (which is no problem), but would that not really help.....so, if I have to mess with the dash...I need some "more detailed" direction.

TY
Shawn

P.S. Why isn't the core in the engine compartment? There's room (?). <<<(just a thought..dam designers)!

[OverBoardProject]

I don't think that any one has tried cutting the glove box, and it might just work.
If it does you'll have to start a new thread telling us the procedure. And include how long it took.
You can get it plastic welded back on for probably 30 bux or less.

It would be pretty tight for some motors under the hood with the heater core.

In Dodge Dakota's pretty much the full heater / Air conditioner box is under the dash. The heater core is probably 1 bitch of a job to do, but it's so nice working on that side of the motor

[jsgold]

Waht year is your truck? My 93 S-10 (Blazer) only required me to pull the dash out a bit on the right side (still have to take out a fair number of bolts) but I did not have to remove the dash. Still a pain but not as bad as I thought. For short term you can splice the hoses or just run the one from the heater core to the block and bypass the core. Very common. Will buy you some time until you can fix it of find a cheaper place. Prices range anywhere from 60-200 bucks around here to change one, not counting the core itself (which is not a lot, usually around 20 bucks for mine). Of course, it will be getting cold soon so you don't want to put off TOO long.

[msicinski]

I just changed my heater core on S10 pickup 1992 4.3L. There is a cover in the back of the glove box. This allow access to one of the screws holding on the cowl cover. The other screw can be reached by pulling out the ash tray.

I still had to loose my dash to allow room to remove the cowl cover.

[tom3]

Several articles links on this page for the earlier S10s.

http://www.sytyarchives.com/

[ksmolik]

I did this job on my 92 blazer. it took me all day. i wasted my time loosening the whole dash. I found the most important tool was a long flexible ratchet screwdriver. it was like a snake 100 percent flex extender. i counldnt have done the job w/o it. take out the passenger seat for better access. remove the stereo. Get in there and REACH with all your might. thats about all i remember from doin it. it wasnt very fun.. Oh yeah one more tip. i had to slightly bend the new core tubes to get it in, so make sure you dont break them, they are fragile. i had a helper through most of the job and that was great. good luck.

[kahlusha]

I have replaced my heater core twice now ... 1993 s10 p/u
(by *i*, i mean my boyfriend)
The first time took almost an entire day, but the last time (hopefully the last time) took a few hours. The placement is a royal pain ... basically I'd have to agree with ksmolik:

the most important tool was a long flexible ratchet screwdriver

don't have too much fun :S