Ready for my first day at the track - advice?

[ChrisB-98GrandPrix]

Well, I have raced many times over the years on the street, short runs, rolling starts, etc.... but have never actually raced at the track. This Wednesday a few buddies and I are heading to "Test & Tune" night in Muskegon, MI. I am looking for any tips, advice or anything... that will help improve my times. Here is what I have:

98 GTP (110K miles) with 3.4" pulley, Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, iWin 1.9 Rockers, 90# Valve Springs, T.O.G. Headers, Random Tech Hi-flow CAT, stock cat-back & mufflers, TB spacer & heat shield, Gatorback SC belt, stock rims, Michelin 225/55-16 tires.

I plan on finding racing gas the day before the race and driving it, to let the PCM learn with the higher octane. On race day I plan on removing my drivers side headlight for addition air flow in to the CAI. I am also planning on drving around the water and doing a long (say 15-20 seconds) burnout. Once lined up, I'll hold the throttle at 1800 RPM then do a steady push of the gas when I go.

How does all this sound? Are there any pros or cons I am not aware of? Any other things I can do?

Thanx to everyone here. I'll be sure to post my times when I get back.

Also - I have a 3.25" pulley but it is not installed currently. I am going to head back to the track after it's installed to measure the improvement.

[richtazz]

unless you have a problem with wheelspin, the long burnout is unnecessary for sub 12 sec cars. Are you running a lot of boost? if not, racing fuel is a waste of money. Your best bet at the track is to practice your launch technique, and your reaction time. Consistency is what wins handicapped match races where you dial your car in for your break out time.

[BNaylor]

Yes, definitely stay out of the water box. On the burnout time that's probably unnecessary. Burnout enough just to clean the tires off of sand or track debris and warm them up a little. Later you might consider drag radials or slicks, especially with the 3.25 SC pulley? Also remember your supercharger will heat up on you. Try to keep it cool too. Plus the track will be slicker than on the street.

In addition to the driver's side headlamp, remove all spare tire stuff out of the trunk, remove the complete back seat or anything else you can think of. For each 15 pounds of weight trim you gain a hypothetical 1 hp.

At the strip, I run VP Racing C10 unleaded but Torco Race Fuel Additive works too.

Experiment on the launch. At the final yellow light, I launch at approx. 1500 rpms holding my brakes, then release and once forward motion starts progressively put the pedal to the medal (WOT) all within a split second. Try to get the reaction time down to .5 secs or less.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.






Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[Ripn12s]

Have u scanned your car for KR. If you dont have any then race gas will be a waste of money. Experiment w/ the launch rpms. Go on the 2nd yellow.

When u get there, go watch first. Get the layout of the track so that you dont look like a dumbass and do somehting stupid.

Since you have a 98 i would pull the traction control fuse, 28, just hitting the button wont do it.

Stage shallow if you can. This means that after u trip the first staging light slowly creep forward till tripping the 2nd light. i like to get that light to blink alittle. Staging shallow will give you alittle extra role that will help w/ the hole shot and not getting a red light.

Experiment w/ air pressure in both front and rear tires.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Ripn12s

Have u scanned your car for KR. If you dont have any then race gas will be a waste of money.

You guys mean to tell me that I've been wasting $5.50 per gallon for VP C10 for nothing? lol.

But seriously at crappy 91 octane pump and over 4,000 feet track altitude in my situation, every little bit counts. According to my Autotap my 2 - 3 degrees drops to 1 degree. Plus the KR will be relative to the amount of boost you are running on the SC. Don't know about you guys but thats significant in my book. Just my 2 cents.





Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[richtazz]

I agree, that every little bit counts. The only advantage to race gas is knock reduction. If you don't have it, why spend the money?

[ChrisB-98GrandPrix]

I have run Autotap on it with the 3.4" pulley on it and only seen about 2-3 degrees but I didn't log it (duh) and I was driving alone so may have missed any quick jumps. If I put the 3.25" on I will surely use either race gas or an additive just to be sure. I plan on having the Autotap logging while I make the first few runs so I can see how it's doing.

Since you have a 98 i would pull the traction control fuse, 28, just hitting the button wont do it.

So just hitting the button doesn't do it? That's good info! I was wondering about that. I know the traction control can kill your HP if it kicks in but I wasn't sure how bad. Pulling the fuse sounds like a good plan then.

I think I'll use this as a learning and practice day. Once I get a better feel for it, I'll put on the 3.25" pulley, get some Nitto NT555R's, check for KR and try it again. Practice is half the fun anyway

Thanx everyone!!

[MIKES3]

Lower your tire preasure to about 26-28 PSI. That will help you 60ft times. .1 off your 60foot is usually .2 off you 1/4 mile time

[ChrisB-98GrandPrix]

Well, after a dismal start, I was able to pull out some more acceptable times. Here is my best of 12 runs...

60 Ft. - 2.075
MPH - 98.68
1/4 mile - 13.793

This was a little later in the day when I got a little better at the launch but I still have some practice to do there. The other thing about this run is the outside temps dropped and that made a big difference in the KR. My first run was horrible and I was getting 4-5 degrees of KR (via Autotap) . with outside temps at about 80 degrees F. I have not even installed the 3.25" pulley yet so I think that is going to wait until I figure out this KR issue. The run posted above was with about 70 degrees F outside temps and I had 2-3 degrees of KR.

I know the header is knocking against the swaybar so thay may be contributing by causing false KR. I am going to fix that next week. If that does not solve the KR issue, I am look for sugggestions. I was actually disapointed to see that much KR on my first run. I am hoping to find a good solution so I can get that 3.25" pulley on and get near the low 13's with some practice and drag radials.

My eventual goal would be to get in the high 12's. The plan was to get down to a 3.0" pulley, drag radials, shift kit, ported throttle body and possibly an intercooler if absolutely necessary. Of course the KR would have to be totally managed by then.

[MIKES3]

Chris,

Those were outstanding launches for FWD. Did you have DRs on ir were they regular tires? Nice runs man. What is the elevation of that track?

[BNaylor]

Congratulations and job well done!

The KR sounds a little high. Here's a suggestion: drop down to Autolite 103s and if funds are available, the polished and ported throttle body is a good move. Preferably a 72mm like the ZZP Stage 1 or 2. It will make a difference on your times and KR. Its highly recommended especially when you're ready for the 3.25 SC pulley short of going to an intercooler. Intake will also cause KR and the bigger throttle body helps cool the intake charge to the SC. Your exhaust sounds up to snuff and I don't think thats a problem.

Your biggest obstacle to getting into the 12s and staying there consistently will be the tranny. Don't forget to add an oil cooler or get a new pan with cooling fins and deeper sump for more capacity.

The 4T65E-HD tranny was only designed by the GM engineers to handle consistent and repetitive mid 13s. After that it's a ticking timebomb.







Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[ChrisB-98GrandPrix]

First of all... THANKS TO EVERYONE. Though my first few runs were a little embarrasing (ET=4.98, 4.76, etc) - I had a f'ing ball! What fun! Once I started getting better at the launches I started feeling better.

Originally Posted by bnaylor3400

Here's a suggestion: drop down to Autolite 103s and if funds are available, the polished and ported throttle body is a good move. Preferably a 72mm like the ZZP Stage 1 or 2.

I just looked at the ZZP throttle bodies. Do you know if there will be any change needed to my TB spacer when I put this on? Also, I am ordering the 103's at a .055 gap - sound right?

The TB and the Autolite 103's are my next steps after the sway bar issue gets fixed. I figure I'll have this all done in the next couple weeks. If KR looks good at that point, I'll install the 3.25 pulley and see where it sits. Then it's back to the track.

Like you said bnaylor, next would be paying attention to the tranny.

Originally Posted by MIKES3

Did you have DRs on ir were they regular tires? Nice runs man. What is the elevation of that track?

Thanx Mike! The tires are Michelin 225/55-16. They are not drag radials but they are a little more aggressive than stock (little wider and higher speed rating). I difinately spun out a few times. The Muskegon, MI area elevation is about 630 ft.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by ChrisB-98GrandPrix

I just looked at the ZZP throttle bodies. Do you know if there will be any change needed to my TB spacer when I put this on? Also, I am ordering the 103's at a .055 gap - sound right?

Gap range on the Autolites 103s at .055 - .058 is about right. More towards .055 if you go to the smaller SC pulley.

What brand throttle body spacer do you have? I had the 3/4 " phenolic spacer bored out by a machine shop to match the TB. Approximately 2 - 3mm. If you have the two gaskets, they will need to be trimmed to match. I've got the one from MAP Engineering. Still a good idea to run it even with the new TB because supposedly the heat isolation between the TB and SC helps reduce KR. Every little bit counts.

Good luck!







Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.