starter problems

[kelly46803]

I have a 71 Chevelle SS with a 454, 671 BDS blower. I'm having issues with the chrome alternator not charging my battery. I've had the alternator tested and it's pushing 45 amps. I've replaced the external voltage regulator. The aftermarket gauge reads between 10 and 11 volts. Is this normal? If not how do I install an alternator with a built in regulator? Also after driving the car for a short period of time the exhaust manifolds make my starter hot, and the car won't start without letting the starter cool down. Is there a factory or aftermarket heat shield made, and if so where can I find one? Any information would be helpful. Thank-you.

[bobss396]

I'm not a big fan of headers on street cars, too much like trouble lookin' for a place to happen, unless you dig dickin' around with them all the time. I would get a roll of header insulation and wrap the area next to the starter. You soak the roll in water, wrap it around the pipes and when it bakes out, it solidifies. You might find a starter heatshield from Summit or your local speed shop.

I would deep six the existing alternator/regulator system for a one wire combined unit. I've used them on stock cars and they're a cinch to hook up, they might be available in a couple of voltages. Also change your battery to something like an Optima. Your system sounds way too anemic, you should be charging around 13.7-14.5 volts and well over 60 amps.

Bob

[kelly46803]

Originally Posted by bobss396

I'm not a big fan of headers on street cars, too much like trouble lookin' for a place to happen, unless you dig dickin' around with them all the time. I would get a roll of header insulation and wrap the area next to the starter. You soak the roll in water, wrap it around the pipes and when it bakes out, it solidifies. You might find a starter heatshield from Summit or your local speed shop.

I would deep six the existing alternator/regulator system for a one wire combined unit. I've used them on stock cars and they're a cinch to hook up, they might be available in a couple of voltages. Also change your battery to something like an Optima. Your system sounds way too anemic, you should be charging around 13.7-14.5 volts and well over 60 amps.

Bob

I figured out my alternator issue. I just purchased this car for 30 grand, and to no enveil all I've had is electrical issues. After I managed to get the alternator charging I'm still only reading 13 volts at idle and 13.5 at above idle speed. The car doesn't have dial gauges, just idiot lights and the alternator light stays on all the time. Guess I should just bite the bullet and buy a new wiring harness.

Thanks for the tip with the header insulation, I'll do that hopefully that will cease my starter issues.

[bobss396]

A nice ride like that with no gauges? You should fix that in time. I was wondering if it was charging at all. With it running, disconnect the negative cable at the battery. If it stalls out, you're not charging. I'd hold off on the harness unless its in bad shape otherwise. You may want to hit the library and see if they have a wiring diagram in their automotive reference section.

Bob

[CRUZN69]

I solved the starter header problem by having the headers ceramic coated. Jet or HPC do a great job and it cuts the heat way down.
I went with the small starter also.

[blue4X4]

These guys hit the nail on the head pretty much. I had the same problem once in my chevelle. Heat shield took care of it from summit racing catalog. Tape wrap is good idea too and/or a smaller starter. Its so tight down there with the silenoid about an inch from the header pipe, it ruins the silenoid. I had to pour water on it to cool it down but not any more.

Get a one wire alternator-only way to go! Chrome alternators and alternators with the external regulator are junk.

[bobss396]

Nice looking '66 Chevelle. Mine was a '67, sorry no pix though.

Another trick I used was to use a Ford style solenoid up on the firewall and jump out the Chevy solenoid using a piece of 10 awg wire with a couple of ring terminals on it. The Chevy solenoid was bypassed, the Ford solenoid was out of the heat and it worked great.

Bob

[kelly46803]

I ended up junking out chrome ext. alternator, for an internal alternator. Thought I had it fixed only to leave me stranded again.

[bobss396]

If you have heat issues, the Ford solenoid is the only way to go. I used the marine heavy duty ones, might cost double or triple a regular one, but they never fail. All you have to do at the starter is to jump the R and S terminals.

The solenoid on the firewall makes it easy to bump the starter for setting valves, remote starting, etc. I started using it on stock cars, then on my street cars.

Bob