86 Bronco XLT Ignition Switch Problems

[devious3]

I have a problem with the ignition switch on my 86 Bronco XLT (302 EFI). Out of the blue the truck would not turn off. I pulled the key and walked away with the truck running (had to pull the coil wire to shut it off). The truck would start back up as normal, but would not stop via the key.

I replaced the key switch on the column but that didn't resolve anything. I took the steering wheel off and the plastic cover at the base of the column and found the ignition switch and actuator rod. By grabbing the rod with pliers I can start and stop the truck. The rod springs back from the 'starter engage' position but if you rotate the key switch to the off position, the rod doesn't follow.

Is the ignition switch spring loaded (and broken) or is there something else that's keeping the ignition actuator rod from engaging the key switch?

Thanks in advance!

[nemo566]

Ther Is A Metal Clip Piece That Connects The Rod And Swith They Always Brake

[devious3]

For the rest of you out there I have found the problem and a fix. There is the actuator rod from the ignition switch that goes into the cover around the ignition lock. Attached to that is whats called the upper actuator. It's odd shaped and for the life of me I couldn't figure out how to remove it but I was able to disconnect it from the ignition actuator rod (just tap out the pin that holds it in place) so I could move it around to work on it. The key lock has a plastic actuator that is connected to the upper actuator via a small pressed in pin. Since mine was missing I have no idea if it was metal or plastic. This missing pin allows the key switch to push and pull on the upper actuator which then moves the ignition actuator rod. I love how ford likes to press in important parts rather than threading them with a little thread locker.

To get at it you have to remove the steering wheel, turn signal assembly, the key lock cylinder and the key lock cover.

I went to Lowes and got a 4-40 drill and tap and a piece of 4-40 threaded rod. Disconnect the lower actuator from the upper and pull the upper out as far as it will go. Then drill a hole with your new drill bit from the outside so it meets the small press fitting hole from the factory and tap it. Next take your 4-40 threaded rod and grind the threads off the last 3/16 of and inch of the rod. Then cut the rod off another 3/16 beyond the grinding. Take a dremill tool and cut a grove into the end for a SMALL slotted screwdriver. You've just made a replacement pin.

Extend the upper actuator as far out as possible, extend the plastic piece from the key lock cylinder out as far as possible (starting position), line up the holes, slather your new pin with thread locker and screw it in. Reattach the lower actuator to the upper actuator and reassemble your steering column.

Works like a champ.