95 Caravan 3.0L - AC Compressor question

[Flashfox]

I was told that my AC compressor is loosing refrigerant. The next sentence was that it would cost me over $1800+ to replace.

First, he is right about the leak as I replaced the refrigerant last year and when he fillied it this year, he mentioned that he noticed and showed me the traces (previous garage inserted a color trace?). This current fill-up lasted me 3 months and now my AC is barely providing cool air.

Sooo... my two questions to the group are simple:

1. Is this a reasonable amount for a replacement AC Compressor & time?

As you suspect, I feel that such an amount for my 112k miles '95 Caravan is up in the stratosphere.

2. Can I fill it myself ($80-200 per season is less than $1800 as I do not plan on keeping this vehicle that much longer).

Thanks in advance.

[alsdock]

Your a/c system is a closed system. However, occasionally a slight leak will develop over time. Seals/o-rings expand and contract as well as soldered or weld joints. If your compressor was rebuilt, there is a possibility that there was an error during re-assy. If it is under warrenty, I would have the original repair shop check for the eoor or other leaks. This can be done with a detector (sniffer) or the basic soap bubble method. If no leaks are identified elsewhere in the system, then the compressor is not doing what it is suppose to be doing (compressing). This can also be indicated by checking the high pressure side of the system.
I would say $1800 is a bit steep. Your better off to add a 12oz can of refrigerant with a leak sealer additive periodically. That method is much easier on your wallet, but remember it's only a bandaid. The leak is still present. Find the leak and you'll solve the problem. Shop around and ask questions. Good luck.

[Flashfox]

Originally Posted by alsdock

I would say $1800 is a bit steep. Your better off to add a 12oz can of refrigerant with a leak sealer additive periodically. That method is much easier on your wallet, but remember it's only a bandaid. The leak is still present. Find the leak and you'll solve the problem. Shop around and ask questions. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice. I really don't want to sink $1800 on this old '95 Caravan. However, I don't mind filling it up 1-2 times a year as this will be cheaper and it will bridge the gap between now and when I am ready to get a new vehicle.

Now, one question --> You suggest 12oz can of refrigerant w/a leak sealer. Is this something I can do myself (My specialy is electronics and not mechanics)? If not, what do you believe would be the cost to have this "filled" at a garage?

As for the problem itself, the last garage showed me a few small green streaks that appear along the joint of the compressor. The mechanic claimed that the previous one had inserted some colorant to be able to see if there was a leak. That previous visit was almost 2 year ago. The compressor is the original, which is long out of warranty.

[pacamper]

Since you are not planning on keeping the van much longer, I think adding a can or 2 would be the way to go. If you take it to a shop it is probably going to be 60-70 bucks for a charge....give or take a few. Wal mart, auto parts store sell the the cans of refrigerant and most use the newer r34 not the old r12. It isn't that hard to do, as there is a fitting there where you attach the can and run the ac to pull the refrigerant in. I don't want to give you wrong info but on my 95 Caravan the fill fitting is near the center of the firewall. I just had a used compressor put on and I asked the mechanic where to put in refrigerant with those cans if need be and he showed me that fitting. On the can you buy will give you some info on doing it. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, get someone for say 20 bucks to do it for you, still cheaper than going to the garage.

[alsdock]

Originally Posted by Flashfox

Thanks for the advice. I really don't want to sink $1800 on this old '95 Caravan. However, I don't mind filling it up 1-2 times a year as this will be cheaper and it will bridge the gap between now and when I am ready to get a new vehicle.

Now, one question --> You suggest 12oz can of refrigerant w/a leak sealer. Is this something I can do myself (My specialy is electronics and not mechanics)? If not, what do you believe would be the cost to have this "filled" at a garage?

As for the problem itself, the last garage showed me a few small green streaks that appear along the joint of the compressor. The mechanic claimed that the previous one had inserted some colorant to be able to see if there was a leak. That previous visit was almost 2 year ago. The compressor is the original, which is long out of warranty.

Not knowing your limitations, I can't fairly say it's a simple task, but it's not as difficult as it may appear. Before you begin anything, I suggest you clean the exterior surfaces, especially joints and connections as best you can to eliminate any residual dirt and stains. This will be helpful in identifying the location of any leak if you think you want the problem corrected down the road. Leaks can then easily be seen by the build-up of oil/dirt or the added dye in some refrigerants. I use Simple Green and completely spray all surfaces under the hood followed by a fresh water rinse. Be sure the engine is cold when doing this.
A charging kit is available at most auto parts stores. It usually consists of valve, gage, hose and a can of refigerant w/ leak sealer. The kit is necessary to do the job. Additional cans can be purchased if required. I strongly suggest you read and understand the packaged directions before you begin this task. Basically, install the can to the valve with attached hose. Install the hose to the suction fitting (low side) using the quick coupling on the end of the hose (note: the protective cap is screwed on, but the coupling is a spring loaded chuck). Start the engine, turn on the a/c to max with fan switch to high. Puncture can to release refrigerant by turning valve clockwise then backing out. Your compressor will energize or cycle depending on level of initial system charge. Do NOT flip can upside down to permit liquid refrigerant to flow into system. Allow can to empty completely. This could take up to 10 minutes depending on ambient conditions. Colder air should now be felt. When finished, shut off engine and disconnect hose from suction fitting and reinstall cap. It is advisable to verify pressure using gage to ensure your not overcharged. After about 1 week of use if you sense that your cold air is warmer, visually look over the systenm piping and components for oil build up or stains. That's most likely the location of your leak. You can then decide what you want to do. However, if it's a real slow leaker, you now have the tools perform a routine service as often as you wish. Hope this helps.

[Flashfox]

Originally Posted by alsdock

Not knowing your limitations, I can't fairly say it's a simple task, but it's not as difficult as it may appear.

Thanks as this is very helpful. I will post the results after I do a bit more research.

By the way, any idea what would be a typical fee for a garage to do this? Should it be in the $75-$90 range? Just curious in case I get "cold feet" (which is my goal ;-)

[alsdock]

Originally Posted by Flashfox

Thanks as this is very helpful. I will post the results after I do a bit more research.

By the way, any idea what would be a typical fee for a garage to do this? Should it be in the $75-$90 range? Just curious in case I get "cold feet" (which is my goal ;-)

A garage will prefer to repair the leak, so expect the cost to include parts and labor. For example, several years ago, I had a hole in my condenser coil (located in front of the radiator) caused by a stone. I took the van to a shop which specializes in a/c systems. The shop charged me about $575.00 to replace the part and charge the system. Then about two or three years later, again a stone caused another leak in the condenser. This time I took it to a shop that was more convenient to my work place. They charged me about $280 for the same job that the other shop did. This past spring, I noticed that the a/c could be a little colder and the compressor seemed to cycle more frequently than it normally should (I'll spare you the reasons and details). So I decided to add a can myself. It took me about 10 minutes. Really, it's not that difficult. I guess you can call a few shops and get a ball park quote but remember, they will bring to your attention of a leak and propose a repair estimate.

[Flashfox]

Originally Posted by alsdock

So I decided to add a can myself. It took me about 10 minutes. Really, it's not that difficult. I guess you can call a few shops and get a ball park quote but remember, they will bring to your attention of a leak and propose a repair estimate.

Thanks again ;-) I will read-up, try it myself and post the results!

[Flashfox]

Originally Posted by alsdock

So I decided to add a can myself. It took me about 10 minutes. Really, it's not that difficult. I guess you can call a few shops and get a ball park quote but remember, they will bring to your attention of a leak and propose a repair estimate.

Hmm... I checked at Pep-Boys and Auto-Zone On-Line and all I can find is "E-Z Charge R-134A Freon & Oil". I cannot find any mention of the sealant additive.

Do you have any brand names to suggest?

[alsdock]

Originally Posted by Flashfox

Hmm... I checked at Pep-Boys and Auto-Zone On-Line and all I can find is "E-Z Charge R-134A Freon & Oil". I cannot find any mention of the sealant additive.

Do you have any brand names to suggest?

Interdynamics. They offer numerous types of charging options. Try going to there website. They offer a wealth of info. You'll find they offer the refrigerant with oil and leak sealer. Advanced Auto Parts offers 14oz can (part number sd134). Keep in mind, the products available offer o-ring conditioners, leak sealers and oil. The oil is necessary to lube internal parts of the compressor. O-ring conditioner and leak detector willl help dried, aged barriers. But if the gaps or clearances are too great, then the additives won't help that much. However, you have nothing to loose. That is, if your system looses it's effectiveness very slowly.