14b

[gsxeclipse97]

I recently bought a 14b to replace my killed t25. I still haven't bought the oil line yet for reasons of being broke.. Anyway i noticed that there is a small crack in the exhaust housing that goes down towards the waste gate flaper. I was wondering if there was anyway to seal this crack before i put the turbo on. I was told that you can't weld it, so i was thinking of having it ported and then using this exhaust sealent to fix the crack. My only concern is will it get to hot and melt this stuff I can't remeber what its called but teh guy who fixed my car the first time used it on the exhaust manifold and it seems to of held fine there. I was thinking that the exhaust manifold has to be way cooler than the inside of the turbo though. Any sugestions

[-Josh-]

Dont cut corners, it only causes headaches down the road. Just replace it.

[gsxeclipse97]

this is just a temp turbo to keep my car running for a couple of months i don't plan to keep it any longer than that.

[-Josh-]

Oh...well then j.b. weld that shit or something, screw it...

[gsxeclipse97]

Can you use that i think that it would melt under the stress of the heat? I think that i will just use the stuff that he used on my exhaust manifold. he said that it should seal and be able to hold for as long as i plan to use that turbo and longer if i want to. Does anyone know about how much it is to have a turbo ported?

[-Josh-]

Most small time speed shops would charge you about $40 an hour...

[sganc4life_4]

theres epoxy u can get for 3$ from homedepot, rated at 350 degrees

[kjewer1]

I'm surprised that nobody mentioned cracks in the turbine housing being completely normal, and in fact, impossible to avoid on TDO5H sized turbos. There is just too much heat in there, they will all crack over time (larger turbos let the heat out better and do not seem to crack).

The question becomes "will this crack affect performance?" Without some super clear pictures of it, not much we can do. But the I beileve its the porting vfaq that shows an example of the 3 typical cracks you get. Basically, if the crack is bad enough that the material shifts and doesnt let the WG flapper seat fully it may not seal, adding a little lag. I've run turbos with some serious cracks in the housing that did not affect performance at all, still got full boost (23-25 psi) but ~3000 rpm.

Another thing to consider is that you can install the turbo now to see how it does, then replace that housing later without actually removing the turbo. I used to be able to go from driving the car into the garage to porting the turbine housing in less than 10 minutes in my younger days You can typically pick up decent 6cm turbine housings (with the "normal" cracks) for about 20 bucks, or you can find 7cm housing from blown 16Gs for ~40-50 bucks that are a slight upgrade for the 14b.

Bottom line is its not the end of the world, even if the cracks are big enough to actually cause a problem, which in 99% of the cases they are not.

Another thing to look at when installing the turbo is how well does the flapper cover the hole. Because the flapper arm pivot is on a slightly downward facing angle, over time and with heat cycling the flapper arm will start to slide out of the housing, toward the radiator. This further bollixes the seal at the WG and adds lag/limits full boost, and is very common. A few taps with a hammer will get it centered again.

Another thing is WG Actuator preload. Make sure that to slip the actuator rod over the pin on the flapper arm you have to stretch the rod out just slightly. This adds a little tension to hold the WG flapper shut. IF there is a gap there, again lag and limited full boost. I like to use "half the hole" as a guideline. When putting the rod in front of the pin it slides over, I like it to be too "short" by half the width of the hole that goes over that pin. Probably an eigth inch or so. There are two ways to adjust that preload, either by bending the bracket with a pair of channel lock pliars (my favorite method) or adding washers under the bracket to space it out further.

All of these things should be looked at when installing any mitsu turbo or any turbo with an internal for that matter, since it is a lot easier to set it up properly before it goes on the car I have seen countless 16Gs come from MHI with the WGA preload set wrong too, so check those new turbos out before you install them.

I hope people search for this later, I'm too old for this...

[gsxeclipse97]

thanks its not to bad so I'll see what it does before i go and mess with it so it really should cause to much of a problem. As far as the flapper goes it covers the hole good there is just a small portion where the crack is but other than that it completely coverd. Also i don't plan to have this forever so ill just wait and see what becomes of this. It also has a brand new waste gate (acuator) on it Spelling