noisy fuel pump? bad tape player

[centervilledon]

I just bought a '85 red Fiero V-6 GT in beautiful shape for the age of it. It does have a few problems I would like opinions on. There is a high pitch whine I hear all the time. The seller said it was the fuel pump aand nothing is wrong. Is this a common problem? Next problem is the tape player kicks out all of the tapes I try to play. The seller said the tape player came with a weak motor that he replaced but it still kicks them out. Is there a fix? The ride is pretty good but it clunks when I hit a bump. Is this shock absorbers or just the way the suspension is set up from the factory? Don

[GiddyUp85GT]

If its clunking sounds like you could use front shocks and rear struts for starters. Front shocks are easy to replace yourself.
Now the whining sound, i also have a 85gt and i get that same sound as you, its intermittent but for my car nothing to fret about. And yes that is the fuel pump As far as the tape deck if i were you i would just switch it out with a cd player or another tape deck. I switched out my deck with a delco cd player out of a 99 z71.

[Old Lar]

The clunk could also be worn motor mounts, transmission or dog bone bushings. The stock radio/cassette player is probably on its last legs. You can get them overhauled if you want to maintain the stock radio, but it may be more cost efficient to replace it with a new version. It can be difficult to find that size radio. You can use a radio/cd player from a late 90's Pontiac. You would need the proper cable connector ($18) and to remove a radio bracket, but other than that it is a plug and play set up.

[ctesla]

I agree with the others completely.
and the best way to fix that fuel pump noise:
get that radio fixed, HA!

welcome to AF.
and seriously, the fuel pumps were a little noisy in some GMs, if you decide you don't like it, when swapping out a new pump, they sell rubber isolator strips, that will limit the contact chatter from the pump.
but noisy is good, it means you know it IS working.

[centervilledon]

Thanx guys for the thoughts and ideas. I may put on some front shocks and see if that helps. The rear struts are over $50 each! I also have an air conditioner that isn't cold. My neighbor says to let out the freon and put in a can of compressor oil and some 134 refridgerant. Will this work? Don

[GiddyUp85GT]

Originally Posted by centervilledon

Thanx guys for the thoughts and ideas. I may put on some front shocks and see if that helps. The rear struts are over $50 each! I also have an air conditioner that isn't cold. My neighbor says to let out the freon and put in a can of compressor oil and some 134 refridgerant. Will this work? Don

Don't "may" do it, DO IT as far as the shocks, they are inexpensive, VERY easy to take out and put in and might save you a world of hurt in the long run.
Tesla might chime in but stock fiero don't have the r134 a/c so i don't know if 134 refrige would work, bump for more responses for this guy

[centervilledon]

The Fiero comes with freon but that stuff is expensive as heck! I believe it can be exchanged for the R-134 but not mixed with the freon. Has anyone done this? Don

[ctesla]

Originally Posted by centervilledon

The Fiero comes with freon but that stuff is expensive as heck! I believe it can be exchanged for the R-134 but not mixed with the freon. Has anyone done this? Don

ALL Fieros have R-12.
R12 was stock on GM 'til '94, then 134a took over.
you can buy the conversion kit, for $20-40 USD, but if you are planning on holding on to the Fiero, this is entirely your decision.
I have a shop, so I elected to keep the R12; which is more expensive, but it is VERY cold!
the 134 conversion is ok, as I have done this for many.
and you will be able to "do-it-yourself" from then on in.
you will have to evacuate the R12 completely, prior to putting the 134 in. unless you know what oil is in the compressor, it would be best to unmount the compressor, drain the oil, and put in new Ester100.
I think the accumulator will be about $40. and should be swapped out ANY TIME the system is opened. (if your A/C was working good, you do not have to necessarily change it, however, $40. = piece of mind, and A/C for 3-5yrs; don't swap it, you might be back in there next year), and an orrifice tube (sometimes called expansion valve) for $2-3. USD is the equivilant to an engine's oil filter (only enclosed in the A/C system (and how often does this get changed: change it, you'll thank yourself)
shocks are a can do easy, struts; still can be done, but it is easier with a strut compressor (many parts stores sell or rent this tool), and you might check around your local "mom+pop" auto repair joints, as some of them will allow you to bring in your own struts or cartridges, and just bill you flat labor to swap out.
if the Fiero has 70+K it is probably suspension, but as Old Lar pointed out: isolate before pulling and swapping; as a $7-10. "dog bone" engine mount could cause a similar "clunk" being a mid-engine.
hope this helps Don,
if anything else:
[email protected]
chris
nrt racing

[centervilledon]

Anyone know if this stuff http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R-12-...94760962QQrdZ1 will help seal up leaky auto air-conditioners? Don

[Old Lar]

I'm having the AC completely redone on my 87 GT. New compressor (old one leaked like a sieve) and conversion to 134a. Rather pricey to have a professional do it, but then I know it will be done right. The car was in storage for a couple of years and crap happens.

R-12 and R134a are not compatable and the oils used by each are not compatable. Lots of work to drain, flush and replace "O" rings when you don't know what you are doing.

[ctesla]

Originally Posted by centervilledon

Anyone know if this stuff http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R-12-...94760962QQrdZ1 will help seal up leaky auto air-conditioners? Don

have not seen or utilized this product.
but if some shop gave you a $500-1000. estimate to fix your A/C
I would try it for $40. just remember this is a patch, not a fix.

[ctesla]

Originally Posted by Old Lar

I'm having the AC completely redone on my 87 GT. New compressor (old one leaked like a sieve) and conversion to 134a. Rather pricey to have a professional do it, but then I know it will be done right. The car was in storage for a couple of years and crap happens.

R-12 and R134a are not compatable and the oils used by each are not compatable. Lots of work to drain, flush and replace "O" rings when you don't know what you are doing.

Ester 100 IS compatible with both. its purpose is specifically for making the old R-12 components in your vehicle, compat and work running 134a through them.
if you are swapping a compressor, PAG will suffice, but if you are leaving ANY of your old existing A/C components in place Ester100 is the way to go. (not trying to sound condescending, just giving everyone the knowledge, because this guy from Colorado, had to relocated to Texas for a couple of years, so AC is a MUST!)
also, on the R22, and the R-Freeze, I have heard both good and bad, but I have not used it, and so I cannot say it there is any negative to putting it in your system. so, if this stuff is available in your area, it might be worth trying prior to swapping out the whole system.

hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing

[Ragtop_Renegade]

Not to be a negative nelly here, but A/C systems are DANGEROUS if you don't know what you are doing. You can be injured - or maybe even killed - if you connect an off the shelf recharge kit to the wrong side of a system. If you manage not to get hurt in the process, the wrong type of refrigerant or system lubricant can destroy the compressor, costing you even more then doing it right the first time. Keep in mind it's also against the law in may (but not all) states to buy or use A/C refrigerant yourself. The "correct" way to fix bad A/C on a daily driver for the least amount of money is to have a professional install a complete 134a retrofit kit. For those keeping a rare model or optioned Fiero bone stock, a resoration of the original R-12 system is in order.

[centervilledon]

Off the subject of ACs for a while, has anyone here ever changed a fuel pump on a '85 fiero V-6 GT? Is it a very bad job? I understand there is access to it from the top of the tank undernieth the hump just behind the gear shifter. Is this correct? Don

[Ragtop_Renegade]

When I took the console out of my 86 to fix a shifter cable, I never saw a fuel pump access panel... That doesn't mean there isn't one, just that I never saw it. I would think it'd be easier to just drop the tank though, giving you easy access to the pump, without the risk of spilling gasoline on your interior. While the tank is out you can give it a good healthy rinse with 100% alcohol to get the built up muck out of it. Removing the fuel tank can be somewhat of a nuisance, with the bolts normally being rusted and stubborn, but with patience and penetrating oil, the tank lowers without much difficulty. Be gentle when removing the pump, as too much force where the fuel inlet boss locks in to the tank itself can cause damage to both the inlet boss as well as the rim on the tank.