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#1
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\\help//
First, let me tell you I have not had a good day. I bought this 91 camaro RS 25th Anniv. with a v6. I got it for $1000, its rough but I needed a car and it drove so what the hell I thought. It has been sitting at my apartment only one day and I'm starting to think God dosen't want me to have this car. It not only has it's own problems today while stitting there a hell of a rain storm came through town and flooded the whole complex, including my new Camaro!! I mean like 3" of standing water INSIDE the damn thing, so now the whole interior has to be replaced now. ARGHH!!!! HELP ME!! What have I got myself into!!
First Question: The damn thing is running so freaking rich its pouring black shit out the tail-pipes. I'm clueless on where to start there. Second Question: I put brand new gas-charges shocks on the rear hatch, that was so I could work on the latch because that damn thing is HEAVY. Well after replacing those I removed the plastic panel that covers the lock/latch. I found that the reason the damn thing would lock was because it was unbolted. So I got some bolts, put them on went to close the damn thing and it won't latch down all the way. I pushed, and pushed on it still didn't work. I moved the entire assembly around all over the place via the large square holes, I moved it up, down, left, right and a combo of those things. still won't latch. What am I doing wrong? |
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#2
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Re: \\help//
im not too good with carb cars at all (im thinking your car is carbed?) well to fix that with 3rd gens, but maybe u got some water mixed in your oil? u may need to change your oil, put a gas treatment in your gas tank, and as for the latch if its the same as what u had on your car than i dont know why it wont work. but if u just went out and got something u think is what u had then u may wanna go to the local car shop and order what u need
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#3
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no, its not carbed. I checked all the fluids, before I cranked her after the water damage. I checked to see if the air intake was wet and it was not, the way too rich was happening when i got the car. as far as the latch/lock assembly its the original i just replaced the gas-charged shocks that hold it open.
thank you for replying. |
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#4
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Re: \\help//
running rich
1 O2 sensor 2 MAF or MAP sensors 3 Faulty fuel pressure regulartor (most likely) or pluged return line 4 Fucked injectors (likely) 5 Fucked TPS sensor 6 Fucked computer 7 Fucked HEI componets 8 Fucked fuel pump (too much fuel presure) Check all these after you pull the codes from the computer easy to fix Do you have any codes on comp or the Service eng soon light on? Whats the drivability of the car? Latch You probably have power latch So take it all apart and see how it all works |
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#5
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Re: \\help//
ONe more thing DONT drive it like that for a long time-yout cat will plug!
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#6
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Re: Re: \\help//
Quote:
Well i did have a check engine light, but not now. The car is driveable, barely, loose front end, the motor does have a miss in it, that could be the one plug wire, and plug the previous owner "couldn't get too." Don't know how to check codes, without spending a crap load of $$ at a garage. pretty sure that #6, #8 are good. I think I might just start with the cheapest part and start replacing. Yes, the latch is a power one. the power part of it works ok, its the actual latching part that is screwed. I did notice that the whole mechinism moves up&down on a really short track like thing, maybe its just not adjusted?? I don't really know. I will see if I can buy one of those code readers, you think that would help me more than anything? |
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#7
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Re: \\help//
no code readers please
Just ground the two terminal A and B (the top right corner next to each other) with a paper clip. Search the old treads that have complete info on how to do it. You will see the SES light flashing At first it will do Flash pause Flash Flash long pause 3 times in a raw it means diagnostic mode or code 12 then it will flash all the codes stored for example code 13 or low voltage on O2 sensor would look like that Flash Pause Flash Flash Flash Long Pause get it Find on line what every code means or ask us. To cleart the codes just disconect the battery for 30 sec. Dont waste money on parts there is always a way to diagnost every singal part without replacing it. Just ask us and we will tell you how. |
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#8
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Re: \\help//
For your part needs go to a junk-yard first.
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#9
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Re: \\help//
Give more info on how the engine performs. I mean RPM range, idle,acceleration, back firing (improper timing),dieseling,bogging,ping,starting problems,vibration. Has anything been done to it? Any melted wiring, disconnected connectors,etc.?Whats the condition of the cap/rotor,wires,plugs.
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#10
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Yeah explain more on how your car acts as you hit the gas or just idle there, it will give us a more narrow idea of whats messed up.
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#11
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Re: Re: Re: \\help//
Quote:
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#12
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Haha Morely.. no he's saying problem #6 and #8 he probably doesnt have, just look at the list Supervisor made.
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#13
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Re: Re: Re: Re: \\help//
Quote:
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- Jason 1995 Pontiac Firebird ![]() ![]() User Guidelines | VB Codes Explained | AF Merchandise "Each of us, is in the scheme of things, insignificant. But millions of insignificant people, doing a tiny bit, can add up to be a very significant force." |
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#14
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: \\help//
...and wasn't 1992 the year of the 25th anniversary edition?
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![]() -2000 LS1 Z28-1979 Berlinetta*sold*-1992 RS 25th Anniv. 350*sold*- |
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#15
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Yup.. 92 was the 25th anniversary edition. Thats why I dont sell my valuable none running car.
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