Car won't start

[richdon]

Hi everyone.
Just purchased a 1995 Sonata, 2L automatic. There are a few issues with the car.
The car won't start. I checked for spark, OK. I checked for a working fuel pump, OK. I checked the ecm relay and it seems ok. Today, I removed the plugs and they were soaking wet. After drying them, I reinstalled and atempted to restart. Started right away, although I had to keep reving it to 3000 for it to run. It was misfiring. I stopped it and started again. let it run a bit so I could bring the revs down to around 1100 and shifted in D. Car was bucking like crazy and died again. I could not restart.

The MIL or CEL is not working. I tried retrieving the codes by inserting the leads of my voltmeter in the ground and MFI of the DLC. My meter just keeps sweeping in a regular fashion at approx. 1 sweep per second without pausing and this continues for around 20 seconds after I turn the key off.

I got this car 5 days ago and it ran fine exept for loud exhaust. I replaced the flexible part and installed a universal catalityc converter because the previous owner had removed the original. I washed the engine compartment and let everything dry. Started it yesterday and let it idle for awhile then shifted in drive. That's when this problem occured. Please, I need some help to find this problem. Thank's
Don

[MXlonerider]

You say the plugs were soaking wet.. I'm hoping that you meant as with gas/ being flooded?

[richdon]

QUOTE=MXlonerider]You say the plugs were soaking wet.. I'm hoping that you meant as with gas/ being flooded?[/quote]

Yes. I meant with gas/flooded.

Furthermore, I took a compression test yesterday. Cyl 1-2-4--160psi.
Cyl 3 --150psi.
Cylinder leak down test 1-2-4 -- 9 to 10% leak.
Cyl. 3 -- 17%
Cyl #3 is a bit low but still in acceptable range. In any event, I don't think that this would be the cause of the no start.
The symptoms are the same as when there is no spark but, when I check it, there is spark.
I was able to re start it yesterday after drying the plugs. Now it runs even worse. Had to rev it to 4000 rpm to keep it running and still it would cut out. So I removed and tested the coils. The resistance test is OK. I will check the power transistor today. I am wondering if it could be an intermitent spark problem like, the power transistor or coils cutting out under load!
I managed to pull the codes from the DLC by gounding the voltmeter lead on the chassis and not in the DLC connector. I have a code 12 wich is the VAS sensor.
I don't know if the fact that I let it run without an air filter because the one in there was very dirty could have set this code.
What next? Sure hope someone can help.
Don

[hazzzmattt]

two things.. if your plugs keep fouling. first since the exhaust has been modified you may have an o2 sensor problem that can definately cause flooding. second, check your fuel press reg. make sure its not sucking gas through the vacuum hose.

[richdon]

Originally Posted by hazzzmattt

two things.. if your plugs keep fouling. first since the exhaust has been modified you may have an o2 sensor problem that can definately cause flooding. second, check your fuel press reg. make sure its not sucking gas through the vacuum hose.

Checked O2 sensor and it is ok. No gas throuh the vacum hose.
Checked power transistor and it is within specs. Also ched TPS. It was off by .05 volts. When checked with the resistance test it is off but when checked for voltage with the switch on it is ok. Rechecked the DLC to pull the codes again. Got code 12, 13, 25.
12 VOLUME AIR FLOW SENSOR
13 INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
25 BAROMETRIC PRESSURE SENSOR
Now, these are all part of the air intake canister. Could all of these go wrong at the same time and would this keep the car from starting?
I will put everything back together and erase the codes. Then I will try to start it again and if I am able to, will pull the codes again to see if they are the same.
Don

[richdon]

I just finished putting everything back together and cleared the codes. Started it up and it ran fine. I had to keep my foot on the gas because it would not idle properly. I kept it to 1500 rpm then I shut it down for aroun 3 minutes. Had a hard time to start it back up. Gas to the floor and she started. Looks like it is flooding. Let her run for a few more minutes until it woul hold a steady idle of 750 rpm. Wiggled the wiring harness and connectors while it was running and everything ok. Removed the vacum hose from fuel pressure regulator and rpm dropped. Car was going to stall so I imediatly put it back. Let it run some more. Then I just lightly touched the throttle shaft to give it some gas and it died and won't start again. No codes stored. I am thinking fuel pressure regulator or/and trottle position sensor.
Don

[hazzzmattt]

i think youre going in the wrong direction.. rpm dropped when pulling press reg vac line because of vac leak or drastic change in fuel press. fuel pressure should go through the roof when you pull the hose. if its not leaking, its probably not bad. the tps is a pretty simple switch. primarily its a potentiometer with ranging voltage from 0 - 5 volts i believe. you can easily check it with a volt meter. it can also be an on/off switch for WOT. anyway, its not gonna cause all those codes. when you have that many unexplainable codes, start looking at the ecm.

[richdon]

Originally Posted by hazzzmattt

when you have that many unexplainable codes, start looking at the ecm.

Like I mentioned in my previous post, there are no more codes since I erased them and restarted it. Someone suggested cam or crank position sensor. Any thoughts!
Don

[richdon]

Well, here I am a few days later and still no go. Here si a recap:
Engine starts when cold but won't idle properly. Must keep my foot on the gas otherwise it will stall and won't restart. Pulling the plugs after attempting to restart shows plugs soaking in fuel.

I just realized today that most of the testing I have been doing with my multimeter was on the harness connectors and not of the actual sensor.
I phoned the dealer to see if he could point me in the right direction but he wants me to have the car towed and he will check it when he has available mechanics. I inquired for an O2 sensor since the problem occured after I installed a new flexible pipe and catalyst; $206.00 + tax, " ouch". Trying to read the codes with my meter since I last erased them; all I get is a regular voltage pulse at about 1hz. Is this normal?
So, it has oxygen, fuel and spark. What can keep it from running and hard or no start when warm?
Don