Reaction Times

[QUICK_EG_B16A]

I was wondering what is a good reaction time? I took my car to LACR and my best was .815. It was my first time and had never practiced until that night. How can i practice reactin times to get better?

[bad360rt]

If they're running a .000 light then that's pretty bad (no offense, just takes practice), if they're still on a .500 light then it's not too bad, but still could be better. For most cars that are foot braking at the line, it's best to leave when you see the third amber light, if you see the green, you're too late. Cause if you leave on the third amber, by the time your foot reacts and the car starts moving, the light will be green. I usually cut .1xx/.2xx lights, with a few .0xx every now and then (on a .000 light). I haven't done much bracket racing, so I'm usually just concentrating more on the launch than the tree, but I need to start working on both together. Just like a good launch, all it takes is practice.

[LowETz]

I usually go .034-.044 lights at my home track(Atlanta Dragway)on a shallow stage. I tend to jump early so SS'ing works better for me. Hurts my ET a tad, but the mph is there, and I make my cleanest passes this way.

If you want to improve that # w/out actually improving, try deep staging.... just don't get antsy or you'll go red.

Another thing you can play with is stop lights. Concentrate on the red.... when it goes out leave.

The main thing is to try to do everything as consistently, and fluently as possible, from burn out to launch.

- After your burn out, try to line up in the groove(the area where the rubber has been left). Lining up outside the groove will put you in the marbles = wheel spin.

- Always try to STAGE exactly the same. Pull up and turn the top bulb on and then slowly bump in until the second is bulb is just barely lit(this is shallow staging), OR bump it in until the bottom bulb just goes out(this is deep staging).

- Try to always launch at the same rpm’s once you determine what launch rpm will work for the track temp./prep and weather.

- Always make sure your front tires are air'd up equally. A little heavy on AP will also help a bit to decrease rolling resistance and will affect roll out(the distance/length of time it takes for your front tires to physically cross the beams)

- Keep your seat in the same(most comfortable)position.
I even wear the same shoes each time I go the track.... (probably overkill LOL!)

- Initially, use the same lane(the one you're most comfortable in) each time if you can.

- Once you find what works for you, don’t change anything.

Once you have staged, FOCUS on the last amber light. It should be the only thing that exists in the world. Don’t think about anything else around you including the guy in the other lane and/or what he is doing. Pretend you're alone.

Like bad360rt said.... leave on the last amber. If you're on DR's or slicks playing w/air pressure will also affect RT as roll out changes.


Try this link for practice when you can't get to the track....

www.staginglight.com

Hit link below if your browser doesn't take you straight to the game

http://www.staginglight.com/services/holeshot/faq.html

Good luck and have fun!

[chevytrucks92]

Originally Posted by LowETz

I tend to jump early so SS'ing works better for me. Hurts my ET a tad, but the mph is there, and I make my cleanest passes this way.

Actually, shallow staging improves your ET. You see, when you shallow stage, you wind up having a longer roll out time, which makes you get a better rolling start before you break the staging beams. In other words, by shallow staging, you're getting more of a "head start" on the clock, so your ET will go down. Now deep staging on the other hand will hurt your ET. You're right in saying it will improve your reaction time because you have a shorter roll out time, but because of this shorter roll out time, you get less of a "head start" on the clocks.

Originally Posted by QUICK_EG_B16A

my best was .815.

Well, if .500 is perfect, then its bad. If .000 is perfect, its horrible. Don't get discouraged though because reaction times will improve with time. You need to tell us what bulb you're leaving on. I would suggest as soon as the 3rd yellow comes on (like lowET and bad360 said) to launch, and if that still don't get ya in the .5xx (or .0xx), then leave as soon as the 2nd yellow goes out. It really depends on how fast your car reacts. And you may end up having to deep stage to improve yoru reaction times. Again, that will hurt your ET, but the race is won or lost on the tree.

LowETz gave great advice. You have to try and do everything as close as you can to the same. Believe me, the least little difference in staging and how you react to the bulb will throw your light off BIG TIME! So just find something that works (I recomend completely stopping on the pre-stage, set for a second, then just barely bump into the stage light) and stick with it.

And I typically get .50x-.52x lights (.00x-.02x), but I get to use a trans. brake, delay box, and two-step.

[LowETz]

Originally Posted by chevytrucks92

Actually, shallow staging improves your ET.

Dohhh!!!.... it's been a long day. Sorry for the misleading info....

....you knew what I meant chevytrucks92.... even if I didn't LOL!

[LowETz]

Btw, chevytrucks92..... have any more shots of the car? ....love to see side/rear and launch pics if you've got any....

[chevytrucks92]

Originally Posted by LowETz

Btw, chevytrucks92..... have any more shots of the car? ....love to see side/rear and launch pics if you've got any....

I'll get some more up later. That one is from last season and with the 406. And that's as close to a launch as I have. There the car had probably went 1-2 car lengths. You can still see the left front is off the ground about 2 or 3 inches though. That was also with wore out slicks. My 60s at that time were in the 1.55 range and the 330 time was like high 4.40s, low 4.50s.

With the new slicks thats on it, I had one 1.464 60', and several 1.48-1.49s, and usually averaged 1.50-1.52 with the 406. Now this new 355's best is like 1.618, so it doesn't launch like that anymore, but it still pulls the left front, just not as hard.

[nissanfanatic]

My RT sucks too.lol Best one I have gotten so far is a .188.

Hey chevytrucks92, you wouldn't happen to go to Gainesville Raceway would you? I swear I have seen your car before, unless there is another car exactly like yours with casper on the side of it as well.lol

[AWP9521]

Originally Posted by LowETz

Btw, chevytrucks92..... have any more shots of the car? ....love to see side/rear and launch pics if you've got any....

I know I'm not chevytrucks92 but I got some nice launch pics to share, they are copyrighted by the track photographer so I can't actually post them here without his permission BUT! I can link to the page they are at on my website where I do have his permission to display them.

Launch Pics

[LowETz]

chevytrucks92.... I like it. Post up more when you get a chance. I've got a bunch I'll post as soon as I (A) figure out why my scanner won't connect to my pc, or (B) say phuck it and buy a new one

AWP9521..... Hell yayah.... post'em up!

[chevytrucks92]

Originally Posted by nissanfanatic

Hey chevytrucks92, you wouldn't happen to go to Gainesville Raceway would you? I swear I have seen your car before, unless there is another car exactly like yours with casper on the side of it as well.lol

Nah. I've never been to Gainseville Raceway. Now the car's been to Mountain Park Dragway (Clay City, KY), Cherokee Raceway Park (Rogersville, TN), Bristol Dragway (Bristol, TN), and London Dragway (London, KY).

I've been to those tracks, but never drove at any of them.

And LowETz, here's some more pics:



That's an older one, but the only difference is two Jegs stickers now on that wing.


That's just the inside. You probably know what all that stuff is, lol.

[LowETz]

Thanx for the pics! That rear shot is tuff.
I wish I had the sack to do the no interior mod... I could be goin' a bit quicker. Still running factory interior EVERYTHING except the rear seat/belts/retractors. That was worth less than 100lbs

May do manual window doors/ tin panels along w/a pair(yeah... Momma likes to ride shotgun)of seats, and a lightweight battery/ relocate to the rear. That should be worth about 200lbs/.002. If I could just do w/out AC/heat, power steering and tunes. Could've saved 60lbs. by going CM on the cage instead of mild steel but....

Really like to find an old ChevyII or a NOVA for the addiction and keep the TA somewhat streetable.... gut it, cage it, tub it, and do a 502" GM crate motor with a mild 200 hit and go low 5's/9's right outa' the box. Maybe next year....

Btw.... what are you MPHing in the 660'?

[AWP9521]

LowETz I posted a link to the page on my last post.

Oh well here it is again, this is for the whole site. Pony Ride Drag Car

[chevytrucks92]

Well, I dont know. I've never drove on an 1/8th mile, but the car has been several times, just never with the 406 I had in it or this new 355.

Now with a 355 that ran pretty close (couple hundredths slower in the 330 and 60') to the 406 I had, it went 6.71 @ 101 mph in the 1/8th. I always figured the 406 I ran would have went atlesat that, if not a little better. In fact, I would have bet it'd ran 6.60s at around 102 mph.

Now this 355 I run now probably would at best go 7.20s, and that's probably be around 95 or 96 mph. And it may not go that, but I'd say it'd be no slower then high 7.30s in the 1/8th. It'd still be fast enough to make the 7.99 break, so that's what counts, lol.

[scottsee]

I went out and ran ET for the first time ever last night. I did a .2880 the first run, .2820 the second and a .143 on my last run. I thought that wasn't bad for my first time!