electrical problems

[mike561]

last night my 98 gp just started going nuts, whenever i would turn on the interior lights they would start blinking rapidly, and when i would open a door the inside lights wouldnt come on at all, the radio would stop working, all the guages stop working and so would the power locks, and the little fasten seatbelt light would blink along with the interior lights, then after a while if the car felt like it, everything would go back to normal. could this be a computer problem or something even more major and expensive would there be any way to reset everything or do something myself??? or should i jus go to my mechanic wit this one? thanks!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by mike561

last night my 98 gp just started going nuts, whenever i would turn on the interior lights they would start blinking rapidly, and when i would open a door the inside lights wouldnt come on at all, the radio would stop working, all the guages stop working and so would the power locks, and the little fasten seatbelt light would blink along with the interior lights, then after a while if the car felt like it, everything would go back to normal. could this be a computer problem or something even more major and expensive would there be any way to reset everything or do something myself??? or should i jus go to my mechanic wit this one? thanks!

Mike561, didn't you have other electrical issues before like RCDLR receiver problems. You need to check the 12v and ground at the Body Control Module (BCM). Its located on the driver's side of the dash by the emergency brake. Pull the kick panel and look up to the left. Its the bigger of the two modules. The smaller is the DRL module. Check the electrical plugs for proper contact. Undo and re-connect first. Sounds like you have a BCM module problem with possible RAP, retained accessory power problem.




Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[mike561]

yea i did have the keyless entry problem also, ill do just that though, thanks for your help!

[reny]

I agree. I don't know what it is called but the box on the drivers side, where the Positive battery lead is for "jump starts' is located. One night, I thought I was experiencing "Close Encounters" when everything was flashing and my car even died. I looked all over and found those wires to be loose. I tighted it up good a year ago and No Problem since

[mike561]

ok i took out the BCM im assumeing it is (its the black box with the speaker in it for the tone) this is what was making a clicking sound when i tried to lock the doors, so im geussing this is the problem? i searched gmparts direct and couldnt find a new one, the lable is a little faded but i think the number on it is 10293827 if anyone can supply me with a place that would have this and to ensure me that this is the root of the problem that would be great, thanks.

[mike561]

nobody knows where i can get this part??? its really important cause my odometer is not working without it either.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by mike561

nobody knows where i can get this part??? its really important cause my odometer is not working without it either.

Unless you can find one at a salvage yard, you might have to go through the dealer. I couldn't find a valid listing for the part number you provided off the BCM. Whats important is make sure it matches your year and model GP. The BCMs are listed with different part numbers for the 1998 model year. They are listed with/without theft deterrent, with/without keyless entry, etc.

If the BCM part number is correct try calling the local dealer and see if they can determine if its a valid part number. Also they should be able to tell you the cost. Also try an EBay search. Sometimes BCMs for the Grand Prix show up on their listings. Good luck!




Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[mike561]

I got a new BCM, put it in, and still diddnt quite fix the problem, i had to take out my interior light fuse in order for things to work the best because if the fuse is in the lights still just blink rapidly and nothin works, now that the fuse is out i either have to have the glove box open or one of the interior light buttions pressed for things to work, and the locks still wont work either, and i have no interior lights. whenever i try to lock the doors it just makes the BCM make a loud click. im just considering taking this to the dealer now, it sounds like a big (and expensive) problem and its REALLY PI**ing me off, any last things i should try before i go to the dealer? thanks!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by mike561

I got a new BCM, put it in, and still diddnt quite fix the problem, i had to take out my interior light fuse in order for things to work the best because if the fuse is in the lights still just blink rapidly and nothin works, now that the fuse is out i either have to have the glove box open or one of the interior light buttions pressed for things to work, and the locks still wont work either, and i have no interior lights. whenever i try to lock the doors it just makes the BCM make a loud click. im just considering taking this to the dealer now, it sounds like a big (and expensive) problem and its REALLY PI**ing me off, any last things i should try before i go to the dealer? thanks!

Don't give up hope yet. After you change out a BCM from the original it must be re-programmed. Right now it sounds like there is no serial data communications link to the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) and other components.

The only problem is a Tech II machine will be required and normally only a GM dealer has one.

Interior electrical problems are the worst thing to have because it is so difficult troubleshooting. The dealer can also run a complete BCM and RCDLR diagnostics, etc. You should now take it to the dealer. Be sure to take the original BCM with you, if available.


Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[mike561]

yea i called the dealer today and they said they would hook it up their computer and do a complete look on the electrical system, and i herd to that it might just have to be reporgramed by them, casue the RKE still isnt working, not since i bought the car actually, ill prolly be taking it over to the dealer soon, just after this storm here in south florida passes thanks again!