transmission & fuel cut off switch

[demotim00]

While driving my 94 Altima down the road today, I hit about a 25lb chunk of Granite laying in the roadway. It bounced up under the car, and the car immedialy shut off. After coasting it about two blocks to the edge of my driveway it wouldnt go any further. I put it in Park, however it was stuck in reverse(the gear selector was in Park but the tranmission wouldnt engage). After several minutes of playing around I finally got it unjammed and got it in to Park. When I tried to restart the car it would do nothing but crank, and it poured out all my transmission fluid. I put it in Nuetral and pushed it the rest of the way, and than put it back in to Park and did not have any more problems with it jamming in a gear. My questions are could a force to the Transmission like that trip the fuel cut-off switch, and if so where is the fuel cut-off switch located for I can check it. Someone please reply as soon as possible, as I will be getting under the vehicle tomorrow to see if I can locate the damage done under the vehicle, as I have to get it fixed ASAP and do not have the money to have it towed to a shop and looked at.

Thanks, Tim

[JustSayGo]

Collision repair shops should know how to reset inertia switches and where to find them. The Haynes repair manual shows something they label as J/C-4 in a wire diagram that may be the inertia switch. I don't see any info about it. Do a quick check to see if the engine has spark to the plugs.

[demotim00]

Originally Posted by JustSayGo

Collision repair shops should know how to reset inertia switches and where to find them. The Haynes repair manual shows something they label as J/C-4 in a wire diagram that may be the inertia switch. I don't see any info about it. Do a quick check to see if the engine has spark to the plugs.

Thanks for the information. All I can do for now is wait til morning when I go outside and actually get underneath it and all for I can try and figure out whats going on, however I will check for spark. If anyone else has any insight or anything, please post them.

[demotim00]

Originally Posted by demotim00

Thanks for the information. All I can do for now is wait til morning when I go outside and actually get underneath it and all for I can try and figure out whats going on, however I will check for spark. If anyone else has any insight or anything, please post them.

Alright, I got under the car today and checked over the damage I did. I sheared one the transmission lines off of the transmission, which the force of that caused my linkage to get off-whack, and also caused the radiator to shift and cause the bottom plastic tank of the radiator to become shifted and caused the radiator to leak out also. So I'm going to go ahead and replace the radiator, fix the transmission line, and adjust the linkage back to where it should be. The reason it would only crank and not start was because the linkage being off-whack caused the neutral safey switch to be adjusted, so instead of starting in Park and Neutral only, it will not start in either one of those but will start in Reverse. Once I get it fixed and back on the road, I will repost to let everyone know how it went, and if anyone has any input, feel free to post.

[demotim00]

Alright, I bought a new radiator, and already got the old one out. I'm going to be replacing the fitting that sheared in half, and putting the new radiator in tomorrow. However after I finish that I will need to adjust the linkage to get it back to where it should be. I am not all that familiar with transmission work and know little about it. Does anyone know how to adjust the linkage on it, and if so any tips or guidlines I should follow. I do not have a Chilton or Haynes Manual, and currently do not have the money to buy one as I'm having to spend every last dime I have just doing the repairs. Any and all help would be greatly apprecriated, as I need to get the vehicle back up on the road by sometime Monday if all possible, because I can not afford to miss any work over this.

[JustSayGo]

Disconnect the shift cable from the lever on the transmission. Loosen the (3) screws that hold the switch to the transmission. Shift the lever to neutral and insert a 5/32 drill bit through the hole in the lever (opposite end from where the cable connects) and into the hole in the switch. Make sure the drill bit is perpendicular to the switch and tighten the screws. Use the drill bit to recheck the adjustment after the screws are tight. If the linkage inside the trans is bent, adjustment may not be possible. The rock didn't move the switch did it? Maybe you should check the adjustment with the drill bit before you loosen the screws and consider trying to twist the lever so it will match the holes when it is in neutral. The switch has a stop for the lever built onto the switch near one of the attatching screws. If it isn't already broken off... be careful.

[demotim00]

Thanks for the reply. I got the radiator in today and got the transmission line back on the transmission. I went to start the car to add fluid and check for leaks, and as soon as I started the car I realized I still had tranmission fluid leaking from the line. I didnt get it sealed properly, so I'm going to have to rework on it tomorrow. Once I can get the leak taken care of, I will than see about the adjustment. I will let you know how things go.

[demotim00]

Originally Posted by demotim00

Thanks for the reply. I got the radiator in today and got the transmission line back on the transmission. I went to start the car to add fluid and check for leaks, and as soon as I started the car I realized I still had tranmission fluid leaking from the line. I didnt get it sealed properly, so I'm going to have to rework on it tomorrow. Once I can get the leak taken care of, I will than see about the adjustment. I will let you know how things go.

Everything I have tried to take care of the leak has failed. I'm going to try the one last option I can think of and that is JB Weld. Most likely I'm just going have no choice but to drop a different transmission in. While calling around to get a price of a used one, I'm being asked if I have a non-locking or a locking differential. I'm not sure which one I have. Does anyone have any idea how I can find out?