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| Car Modeling Share your passion for car modeling here! Includes sub-forum for "in progress" and "completed" vehicles. |
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#1
05-02-2002, 03:05 AM
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New member and enthusiast
Hey everyone, new member here. I post over at www.superhonda.com often, but other than that, I doubt anyone knows me
 My interest in model cars has sparked again, now that I've seen what some people can do with a model kit and loads of patience  Of course, my experience in the field of modelling in general is pretty low; I was just a typical 6th-grader building Revell & Monogram kits for fun, and not exactly doing the best job Anyhow, I spent the past few hours reading over the tutorials and other informative posts on this forum alone. I've decided to start with a Revell Integra type R (as long as I can actually find it locally  ) seeing as how it's an inexpensive and attractive model. I was going to start on a Fujimi EK9 99-00 Civic type R instead, but this kit is running me around double the cost of the Integra, so I'd rather it not be my first. Also, this means I can have two matching type R Hondas for display on my desk once I've finished them both On to the barrel of questions I'd like to ask Most of these are stemmed from Guiddy's guide on body painting, and a few extras thrown in for good newbie measure.First, purchasing paint. Originally, I had intended to visit the local hobby shop and pick up "those little jars" of paint in the color I plan on painting both the ITR and CTR; Championship White. However, as per the suggestion of most people on this forum, brush painting isn't the way to go. I don't feel I'm at the level of involvement at which I would purchase an airbrush gun, so will a few cans of model spraypaint do? When, and for what parts, is handbrushed painting appropriate? Has anyone tried these "carbon fiber decals?" I doubt I'd be able to find any at the local hobby store, but there are a handful of model companies (Fujimi is one) who make these. I doubt anyone who visits these forums is unfamiliar with carbon fiber, but for those who don't know; it looks like a reflective, 3D checkered pattern, often dark gray on black (they can come in just about any color scheme you'd like, though.) Carbon fiber hoods are really popular in import racing, in fact; the Spoon Civic & Integra type R kits from Tamiya have a "suggested look" of a carbon fiber hood, shown in the picture on the box. However with me, the theme is realism... so if these "decals" tend to take away the look of authenticity, I'll be sure to stay away. 
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#2
05-02-2002, 04:30 AM
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Nice to see you join us!
I used to use SHO but now Preludeonline is my home! Brush painting is fine, but use enamels not acrylics, and dab the brush with a little thinner to keep it flowing, so for every dab in the pot, add a little enamel thinner, it keeps the paint smooth. Use automotive cans to spray the body. Carbon fibre decal is cool, you'll read I use it on a lot of my kits. But a pain in the ass to fit! Are you up to it?
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#3
05-02-2002, 12:56 PM
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Thanks for the tips! First, I visited Wal-Mart to pick up a Revell ITR... they had an abundance of these things
I'm talking at least 10, and their model car kit selection wasn't so large.I then drove to the local hobby store, and was pleased to see that they had quite a large selection of paints -- Testor, Tamiya, and "Model Master"; the brand I went with. I saw Tamiya and really wanted to go with this brand, but the price was nuts!! $4.75 per spray can. I'm not sure if this is really high or not, but I didn't want to blow almost $5 per can on my first "serious" model. The Model Master cans were $3.25 a can, so I picked up one can of Bright White (the closest match I could find to Tamiya's Racing White.) I was hoping I could find Championship White, a la one of Honda's official colors for the Integra Type R, but no luck there. I also picked up one jar of each enamel paint from Testor; Silver/Chrome for engine detail, Flat Black for white -> black wheels, and Mat Red (metallic red?) for valve cover detail. I just realized; I forgot another shade of red for the interior... damnit! I'll have to pick that up later tonight at Wal-Mart, since they had Testor paints. I don't feel like driving all the way back out to the hobby store for one jar of paint Other less-important tools that I bought are: a hobby knife, three different-sized brushes, five grains of model sandpaper, and non-toxic cement. The one thing I forgot was the paste you mentioned when pulling off one of the coats of paint. That brings me to one important question before I start... I only picked up one can of white primer, and one can of Bright White paint. The salesman told me that one can of paint should be good for two coats, at the most. Would I still get decent results with one coat of primer, dried, then one light coat of white paint, dried, and a final white coat afterwards? And as for the carbon fiber decals, I'm not big on things that tend to be a pain in the ass, so I'll skip that until I've honed my skills in modelwork a little bit more Thanks
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#4
05-02-2002, 01:10 PM
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I dont know what is the amount of paint the salesman you talk of use but he use too much. Testor cans are the same as model master and I have use one can of mettalic jade for a shelby serie 1,a mustang '88 and a f-250
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#5
05-02-2002, 04:19 PM
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Agreed. One can is plenty to do a car. Your first two coats are super light anyway. He's off the mark, it seems...
About glue: Glue 101 Did you get tube glue or "weird black applicator" glue? You'll also want plain white glue (like Elmer's) for windows and parts that get added over the paintjob. And welcome to AF! 
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#7
05-02-2002, 05:01 PM
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I bought a sky blue tube of Testor's Non-Toxic Cement for models; it's a clear, thin goopy liquidy substance. My only other option was toxic, so I played it safe
Thanks a lot for the tips, and I'm sorry to hear about the Tamiya Racing White, but glad I didn't buy it at the same time The body is currently on my back porch, letting the primer settle into it. I had to use 600-grit dry paper to "ready" it; the little sandpaper kit I bought didn't come with anything higher. However, 600 felt really soft to the touch, so I'm hoping it will suffice. I've finished painting the stock type R wheels from the dark gray gunmetal plastic color to a flat black, and they're looking good! As long as you don't stare too closely at them, that is I'm currently working on the engine, which is coming along nicely, even though I don't have the specific colors needed to do the job (instead of Satin Black for the throttle body, for example, I've used flat black.) Also, the metallic red I used on the valve cover is a few shades darker than I would've preferred, but doesn't look too bad overall. I'll have pictures up ASAP!
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#8
05-02-2002, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
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#9
05-02-2002, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
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#11
05-02-2002, 06:58 PM
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I don't want to hi-jack your thread and turn it into "Glue chat."
Just make sure you check out this thread: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...&threadid=6897 It has a link to an article explaining all the differences and what type of glue to use for what jobs. I personally have 9 differenct types of glue on my desk at the moment. So, it's not like you need to throw one kind away for another, but instead you'll have a collection, and you'll like to use some more than others... 
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#12
05-04-2002, 12:18 AM
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Here are two quick updates! As you can see, the car is far from finished. The bare body has received two coats of primer, and its first light coat of bright white paint. In the last hour, the front & rear fender plus spoiler were glued on, and are drying for tomorrow's coat of paint. Most of the interior of the car is finished, and just requires a few minor touch-ups, along with the entire engine bay, rear wheels, headlights/taillights, etc etc.
  (Code Red!)
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