bad ball joint = excessive rpm's?

[wesner1]

My '97 has a bad lower ball joint on the driver's side. Usually my car runs at 2050 - 2100 rpm @ 60 mph, but today was running about 3100. It shifts into overdrive when it should; there's no difference between OD and D; feels like something is dragging on the engine while it's in gear, but drag disappears in neutral coast; cam position sensor, synchronizer and (can't recall name of part underneath of CPS) replaced a few months ago; tran. fluid full and clear; in other words, I can't think how it would be a transmission problem! If it weren't for the fact that the dragging sensation seems to be absent while in neutral I would rule it out altogether.
Is there any way that the two problems are connected?
PS: My car and I have a very special relationship. I find out something is wrong, I buy the part for it, and the very next day(never fails) something else goes phhhhttt! Please tell me that replacing the ball joint (which I bought yesterday, see what I mean?) will fix this as well. Only if it's the truth though (sigh).

[wesner1]

Additional info: Was wrong about dragging sensation disappearing in neutral. Simply feels like less drag because car is slowing down. Also, had a mechanically inclined friend look at it and his opinion is that the bushing on the end of the tie rod is the part at fault and that the ball joint itself is good.
Just as a side note: Don't trust Meineke.

[way2old]

You have an electronically controlled trans. If a solenoid is stuck, it will not shift properly and stay in wrong gear. If it is staying in third gear without the torque converter locking up, the rpm difference you describe is about right. have someone with a scanner that can read the PIDS of sensors check to see if the shift solenoids are operting properly.

[vicv]

Sorry to say but the ball joint won't fix the high rpm issue. Fix it anyway since you have the part. Sounds like the tranny isn't kicking up into the next gear

[wesner1]

Well, ended up replacing tie rod end on that side instead of ball joint. No visible wear on ball joint (but will jack it up again and double check now that I've actually read my Haynes & know how). Just doesn't seem like tranny problem. Shifts when and where it's supposed to and does kick into overdrive when I stomp it. Not only that, but like I said before, I checked again and the dragging feeling is still there in neutral. It just seems to be a bit less noticable, probably since the car is slowing down.

My new theory is bad wheel bearings. Looking back on my previous posts I realize I forgot to mention the .3 second lane change I can achieve simply be letting go of the wheel. 'Spose I might finally be on the right track...?

[vicv]

Yeah, now you're looking at something that could provide a drag. Bad bearings you might be able to hear, as well as feel when rolling slowly. Or a brake hanging, both can cause a rapid lane change. Brakes would be my first place to look. Hang on tight!

[wesner1]

I'm guessing against brakes for two reasons. First, had the brake caliper off when I thought I was going to be replacing the ball joint and didn't see anything to trigger an alarm. Second, when I apply the brakes - at any speed - it doesn't straighten out or pull the other direction. Still a lot of wear left in the brake pads too. I never replace one side without doing the other as well, so I'll double check against the other side. As for hanging on? Ya betcha boots I am!

[wesner1]

Transmission coolant line is bowed up, but no fluid leakage, fluid is clear and at proper levels. If the line is obstructed in some way could this cause the rpm issue I've been describing while still leaving the fluid with no clues?