93 SSEi Brake problem

[jjm01o]

My 93 has the ABS light on and the Traction control off lifght on. Rear drums and pads were just replaced 2 weeks ago, front brakes last summer. No leaks can be found and brake fluid level is fine. The problem occurring now is the brakes are mushy as the pedal gets pushed to the floor. The master cylinder looks fine as well. Could it possibly be the power booster of the brakes? I am at a loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Jim Adams]

In the rear of the car is the traction control sensor and abs sensor that may ahve been affected while the brakes were changed,,there is a hub assy. in the back and there are four bolys that hold the hun into the knuckle ,,on the back of the hub is a bearing assy. and a sprag that looks like a gear this is your abs and traction control signaling wheel,,if any of the sensor that read that sprag have been damaged or disconnected then your light will come on,,since you just had rear brakes done then I would check there first. If you reset the battery( disconnect then hit brakes and reconnect it after 5 minutes then drive the carand hit the brakes you will feel a weird clicking in the brake then the abs light will come on and then the traction control light will come on,,,if this happens then somthing has happened to the snsors or sprag,,,if they come on before you hit the brakes then it may be a relay under the hood in the auxilary fuse box mounted on the inner fender well.

[Jim Adams]

sorry typos 4 bolts that hold the hub into the knuckle!! I will proof read in the future lol

[auto trainy]

I'm curious,would the electronic problem cause the mushy brakes?

[Jim Adams]

No the mushy brake is probably from when they replaced or rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders they didnt get all the air out or the brakes are not adjusted in the back

[jjm01o]

Originally Posted by Jim Adams

No the mushy brake is probably from when they replaced or rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders they didnt get all the air out or the brakes are not adjusted in the back

Thanks for the info Jim. We looked at the parts you suggested and nothing looks out of place, or even worn. When I replaced the brakes last time I put new drums and pads on, everything else looked great. The brakes were fine for 2 weeks after the install. The ABS light and traction control off stayed lit. I figured it was a sensor and oh well, no ABS and traction control. Now that The brakes are not working properly it is an issue. I replaced the master cylinder based on how the brakes responded with the car off and on. Still no difference. The only other thing we are thinking now is, could it be an electro hydraulic pump that runs the ABS and traction control? A control module? Or even a hydraulic modulator? We even checked the hoses to make sure proper vaccum was in the line and it was. Any more ideas would be greatly appreciated!

[jjm01o]

Jim, thanks for making me take a look at my rear brakes again. We decided to bleed them. As we were starting this we noticed the cylinder on the passenger side was not working at all. Ran to the parts store replaced that. As we bled the brakes, the driver side cylinder popped! We should have replaced anyway, but it was working. As we replaced that cylinder, the S-shaped line from the wheel assembly was stripped. Someone messed with this at some prior time. We had to replace that part of the brake line. We bled both sides and did remove a lot of air in the lines. Brakes are working like a champ now. The ABS and traction control still are out, but from what I've read, it will stay that way. We believe the ABS motor is shot. Who knows.

Thanks Jim!

[Mr_Fusion]

If the ABS light turns on after driving above 14MPH, then check all fuses and replace the relay located under the hood near the windshield wipers. If the ABS light turns on as soon as you start the car, it may be a wheel sensor.