Battery

[jessep28]

00' GT, 3800, 45500k

I am looking at possibly replacing my OEM Delco battery this fall. I live in the harsh climate of Nebraska, so a good battery is required .

1) How long do the OEM batteries last?
2) Would I be able to do a battery load test DIY?
3) If so, how would one do it, what tools are required and what are the
results that should tell me whether I should/shouldn't replace the
battery?
4) If I do need to replace it, what brand battery tends to work better
than others?

Everything is of course working fine now. But when it hits 0 degrees outside, that may/may not be a different story.

Thanks for all your help again.

[jimmytroanoke]

Originally Posted by jessep28

00' GT, 3800, 45500k

I am looking at possibly replacing my OEM Delco battery this fall. I live in the harsh climate of Nebraska, so a good battery is required .

1) How long do the OEM batteries last?
2) Would I be able to do a battery load test DIY?
3) If so, how would one do it, what tools are required and what are the
results that should tell me whether I should/shouldn't replace the
battery?
4) If I do need to replace it, what brand battery tends to work better
than others?

Everything is of course working fine now. But when it hits 0 degrees outside, that may/may not be a different story.

Thanks for all your help again.

Buy a Motorcraft! (LOL)
I just changed the battery in my 95 GM 6 months ago and the one in my 97 F150 is still original! Your results may vary! If the car sits a lot your battery will not last as long as one that is used regularly. Winter is much harder on a partially discharged battery than a fully charged one. My cars have spent most of their life in the southern heat (Atlanta) but some say heat is as big a killer as cold. I also have towed a camper extensively with my truck. I think I have been very lucky.
Most Advance/Autozone/Pepboys whathaveyou type auto parts stores offer a free load test. Just watch the guy and look at the gage yourself as they are in the business of selling batteries. The only thing I can suggest for DIY is to start the car with a cold engine and the high beams already on after dark to look for major dimming. If your lights go almost out before the car starts that might be a sign that you don't have an excess of cranking amps.
Consumer reports has a car battery test every year or two and they test northern and southern versions of each battery.(Most companies vary their designs to local climatic conditions) Check your public library for back issues

[jessep28]

Thanks! When class starts up on the 22nd, I will go to my University Library and look it up. Do you have the issue month?

[ericvrose]

My OEM battery literally fell apart a year almost to the day after I bought the car new. The Pos. terminal just fell off. I replaced it with a Diehard and it's been going strong since then.

[jimmytroanoke]

Originally Posted by jessep28

Thanks! When class starts up on the 22nd, I will go to my University Library and look it up. Do you have the issue month?

No, but they do it once every year or two. I think in the back of the issues there may be an index as to what has been tested. From their website, it looks like 11/04 was their last test. You have to be a member to see it on the web, but that issue is fresh enough that you should be able to find it in the library

[rbsteve]

Up here in Canada they sell many makes of batteries specifically marketted for our harsh winters. Surestart (or something like that) and many others guarantee a start upto -40 C. If not they provide free towing and battery replacement.

My tip would be dont go for the cheap ones. I had a bad experience with a low cost battery in my previous car, and the warranty was only a year. It wouldnt hold its charge after about 18 months. Usually the more expensive ones with a nice long guarantee is the best choice.

[jessep28]

That's fine. I will probably go towards DieHard like I did when I replaced my truck battery. I will give CR a check too.

[GTPgirl]

I just replaced the OEM battery on my '99 GTP in April. Which is roughly the 7-year life expectancy (At least I think it was seven) listed on the battery, give or take a few months. (My dad was concerned at first because it was a 7-year battery and it died in '05, until I pointed out to him that as a '99 model, it was built in '98, and '98 to '05 is seven years.) As for what kind, my dad prefers Duralast, and since he's a retired GM mechanic, I tend to trust his judgement.

[jimmytroanoke]

I had a guy in a battery plant tell me to buy the CCA(Cold Cranking Amps)that you need and no more. To get the real high CCA, you have more, thinner plates. When they are closer together the sulphation can short them out sooner. The 10 yr. old battery I just replaced was only 550 CCA in a car with a V8 and Power everything, and it always started even at 0 deg. F with no problems. I finally replaced it because it started leaking around a post but it was still working. He also told me that with most battery companies, the higher warranty batteries were the same as the cheaper ones, you were just buying an extended warranty on the more expensive ones.