92 Lumina Euro Engine cuts out

[stevenica]

I have a 1992 Chevy Lumina Euro that has an enigne problem; here is a little background...

about two years ago I have a Jasper over-hauled engine installed (car has about 175 k miles on it). About a year ago I had the transmission overhauled. About eight months ago I had a control module (TP404) and a cam sensor (C55109) replaced. The car worked fine for a couple months after that.

Currently all fluids are topped off and clean

Here are the symptoms and what I have done so far:
The engine starts fine and idles fine. When I apply throttle the engine begins to sputter and backfire at very low rpm, the behavior is similar but not exactly the same as you get when the rev limiter kicks in at high rpm. As the engine warms, I can get slightly higher rpm but not much. the problem kicks in at a low enough rpm that the car cannot be driven safely (can hardly get out of the drive in fact).

As i apply throttle very slowly, I get up to a certain point (guessing about 3k rpm) and it starts to stutter, If I add throttle them, it begins to back-fire. If I place the car in gear, brake and apply throttle, it will let me presss the pedal to the floor as long as i don't exceed the threshold rpm (sorry, no tach so I am only guessing on the rpm). So, based upon that, I am guessing that the problem is not fuel or vacuum but rather ingniion or some electronic control over ignition.

I have managed to drive to two different mechanics. If there is any kind of hill at all, I can only make 15-20 mph, if the road is level or slightly downhill, I can make 50-55 mph tops, no pwer at all though. I took it tfirst to the guy who replaced the fule module. He could not see anything on the analizer but just in case, he did a warranty replacement of the replced module, no help there. He suggested that it might be the catalytic converter. I took it to another place for that, again no-soap.

That guy suggested that it could be the oxygen sensor, I replaced that myself and it did not help. I have also added dry-gas to the tank (which is full by the way) without success.

So, there I am, It appears that whatever the problem is, it is not being described by codes available to an analyzer, I get no "check engine" light, etc. When the fuel module was replaced I had the fuel pump checked and it checked out at that time, I think they checked the fuel filter then too but I am not sure, I will try to find the ticket on that and see.

Anyone who has any idea of what I am up against, I would sure appreciate your input.

Thanks much too all!

[Jim Adams]

As simply as this may seem did you check the resistance in your plug wires? they may be the problem and would show no codes,,Plugs and wires dont show codes,,if this dosnt cure the problem I would look to the computer as being at fault and may need to be replaced. Good luck!!

[stevenica]

Hi Jim,
Is this the sort of thing that comes up suddenly? If so, how may wires/plugs would it take to result in this behavior and why does it not show up at lower rpm?

[Jim Adams]

It would only take one bad plug wire to make it act like it is taking a dump,,plug wires dont usually show there fault until under a load then the wire will short and cause the engine to misfire as true in plugs as well sometimes they are fowled out and it isa a steady mis when idleing as well but sometimes it will only miss under a load and that is why it may be your problem it shows no code and doesnt do it idleing only going down the road after it gets into a higher gear and imposes a load on the engine..good luck.. oh and yes it can be fine and then all the sudden it can go out,and the wires well they could be laying on a manifold and shorting or they may be original,s the best way to tell is see if the plug wires are made by Packard and see if they are numbered to the cylinder if so then they are original

[meuhus]

Originally Posted by Jim Adams

It would only take one bad plug wire to make it act like it is taking a dump,,plug wires dont usually show there fault until under a load then the wire will short and cause the engine to misfire as true in plugs as well sometimes they are fowled out and it isa a steady mis when idleing as well but sometimes it will only miss under a load and that is why it may be your problem it shows no code and doesnt do it idleing only going down the road after it gets into a higher gear and imposes a load on the engine..good luck.. oh and yes it can be fine and then all the sudden it can go out,and the wires well they could be laying on a manifold and shorting or they may be original,s the best way to tell is see if the plug wires are made by Packard and see if they are numbered to the cylinder if so then they are original

could also be a bad injector check the resitance had similar problem
w/91 3.1

[meuhus]

Originally Posted by stevenica

I have a 1992 Chevy Lumina Euro that has an enigne problem; here is a little background...

about two years ago I have a Jasper over-hauled engine installed (car has about 175 k miles on it). About a year ago I had the transmission overhauled. About eight months ago I had a control module (TP404) and a cam sensor (C55109) replaced. The car worked fine for a couple months after that.

Currently all fluids are topped off and clean

Here are the symptoms and what I have done so far:
The engine starts fine and idles fine. When I apply throttle the engine begins to sputter and backfire at very low rpm, the behavior is similar but not exactly the same as you get when the rev limiter kicks in at high rpm. As the engine warms, I can get slightly higher rpm but not much. the problem kicks in at a low enough rpm that the car cannot be driven safely (can hardly get out of the drive in fact).

As i apply throttle very slowly, I get up to a certain point (guessing about 3k rpm) and it starts to stutter, If I add throttle them, it begins to back-fire. If I place the car in gear, brake and apply throttle, it will let me presss the pedal to the floor as long as i don't exceed the threshold rpm (sorry, no tach so I am only guessing on the rpm). So, based upon that, I am guessing that the problem is not fuel or vacuum but rather ingniion or some electronic control over ignition.

I have managed to drive to two different mechanics. If there is any kind of hill at all, I can only make 15-20 mph, if the road is level or slightly downhill, I can make 50-55 mph tops, no pwer at all though. I took it tfirst to the guy who replaced the fule module. He could not see anything on the analizer but just in case, he did a warranty replacement of the replced module, no help there. He suggested that it might be the catalytic converter. I took it to another place for that, again no-soap.

That guy suggested that it could be the oxygen sensor, I replaced that myself and it did not help. I have also added dry-gas to the tank (which is full by the way) without success.

So, there I am, It appears that whatever the problem is, it is not being described by codes available to an analyzer, I get no "check engine" light, etc. When the fuel module was replaced I had the fuel pump checked and it checked out at that time, I think they checked the fuel filter then too but I am not sure, I will try to find the ticket on that and see.

Anyone who has any idea of what I am up against, I would sure appreciate your input.

Thanks much too all!

could also be a bad injector
check the resitance of the injectors
i had one go bad in my 91 w/3.1
couldn't get the car over 10mph low power bad idle
found one of the injecters to be at 2.2 ohms(#6)
changed them all found em cheep on the net
runs great now

[stevenica]

Just a reminder to all regarding putting a "load" on it. I can put it in gear and floor the pedal and it runs fine with that load it only starts to cut out and miss-fire when it reaches a certain minimum rpm. It does not reach that rpm while in gear in the driveway with my foot on the brake and the gas floored. It sits and strains to go as if all was normal. If I release the brake and the car starts to move and the rpm rises just a little, then the fun begins.

[meuhus]

Originally Posted by stevenica

Just a reminder to all regarding putting a "load" on it. I can put it in gear and floor the pedal and it runs fine with that load it only starts to cut out and miss-fire when it reaches a certain minimum rpm. It does not reach that rpm while in gear in the driveway with my foot on the brake and the gas floored. It sits and strains to go as if all was normal. If I release the brake and the car starts to move and the rpm rises just a little, then the fun begins.

it sound very similar to what mine was doing
but not sure
i don't think any body can be exactly sure unless they here the car run
test the resitance of the injectors to see if you have a bad one
i've been told that if one goes (on these cars the way they are wired)
then it will affect all
check for vac leaks
do you have any codes(check engine light on?)
could be a bad timing chain
if you don't have any codes its something that does not afect how the computer is controling things
could be a plugged cat converter

[stevenica]

Yeah, I am guessing that I will have to take it in again. I have already replaced the catalytic converter and the oxygen sensor. There is no check-engine light and the two places that I have taken it to say there are no codes.

Thanks though!

[meuhus]

Originally Posted by stevenica

Yeah, I am guessing that I will have to take it in again. I have already replaced the catalytic converter and the oxygen sensor. There is no check-engine light and the two places that I have taken it to say there are no codes.

Thanks though!

if you have an ohms meter you can do this your self
you need to remove the plemun(upper part of manifold)
unplug the electrical connector and test the two terminals on the conector
also test for a pulse at the conector
you will need a noid light (a special light that fits it the electrical connector)
disable the ingnition coils so if you turn it over and it starts won't think its a wot
crank engine and the noid light should flash when injector is supposed to be on