Going to go all out on detailing my car's exterior... need help.

[flatlander757]

Alright, my car is in the shop right now and I figured once I get it back I will go all out and make it look as nice as possible. My baby deserves it I have been using some Rain-X Carnuba Wax Bead stuff to wash my car every week, and I've been fairly happy with the results, but don't really have much to compare it to. I just bought a bottle of Nu-Finish car wax, but haven't used any yet after reading that people aren't really satisfied with it on a couple forums. I may take it back/let my dad use it since that's what he puts on his truck.

I'll be needing some wash/wax/polish/claybar I believe. I'd like to know what some of you guys recommend for those things? I wash my car on a regular basis(weekly at least), and would like a wax that lasts for at least 2-3 months. I've read that some polishes aren't really true polishes and stuff but I don't know a lot about what is what, so I'll need some good stuff. My car's entire front fascia is pretty dull, it's like the clearcoat is hazed/gone so I'm going to need to polish the hell out of it.

Some dummy-proof instructions on how to do everything and in what order would be nice too! A website or something of the like... As far as I know you wash it with dawn dishsoap to get all of the old wax off, go over it with a claybar, polish, then wax. Is that correct?

[potsdamcartel]

nice how to site: http://store.yahoo.com/autopia/how-to.html

products i'd recommend:

wax: anything made by maguires, but i heard Zaino makes the best(and most expensive) wax
polish/glaze: klasse
clay bar: the only one i have used is maguires; seemed to work well
tire polish: maguires tire shine spray

i just stuck with maguires, except for the polish.

[flatlander757]

Oh, one important thing I forgot to add was that the wax I get needs to be able to be applied in direct sunlight. I don't really have a usable garage and it is always sunny here so it's pretty much unavoidable.

[Johannes]

I don't even know if there is a wax that is made to be applied in direct sunlight, I think all waxes will be easier to apply on a cool car... what about driving to a parking lot and finding a shady spot? You could go to an underground lot in your area and do it there...

[flatlander757]

Maybe a parking garage? Haha. I'll see if I can use a friend's garage or something. The only reason I got the Nu-Finish is because it says that it can be safely applied in direct sun.

[Les7K]

First of all remember different products for different problems. And only use what you need

If getting your car clean is your goal, use a concentrated (no cheap stuff) wash specifically made for painted surfaces. Never use dish soap (dawn), shampoo or the likes. No matter how gentle these soaps say they are, they’re meant to cut through wax and grease. So unless you want to wash away all your car’s protective wax or your car’s got some greasy glandular problem, stay away from these types of soaps. (If you want to remove your old wax both a clay bar and a polish will do that for you.)

If your car’s surface is rough to the touch even after washing, use a clay bar. Clay bars grab hold of impurities on the paint’s surface and lifts them out leaving your paint as smooth as a baby’s butt. Now, clay takes a little getting use to but you can do it. Start by kneading the clay into a comfortable shape. The secret to using clay is to always maintain a substantial amount of lubricant on the paint surface so that the clay glides and allows it to work effectively. (Use your favorite Quick Detailing Spray as a lubricant). Work the clay bar across the paint surface until it glides effortlessly. Wipe off the excess residue from the paint. Then move on to the next section. Continue to knead bar as you move on to new sections. You may also want to check the bar frequently and remove any large particles it may have picked up. After claying, the surface should feel perfectly smooth. However it’s also unprotected, so you’re gonna want to follow up any claying with a good coat of wax. Almost every wax maker now-a-days offers a clay bar.

For removing light scratches and swirl marks your gonna need something more aggressive like a polish. Not to be confused with a wax, a true polish works by abrasion (scary word abrasion, but it’s ok). Because of its abrasive properties it’s very good at removing scratches and swirl marks too. It also conditions the paint, eliminates light oxidation, and creates a high gloss not possible with car wax alone. Because it leaves nothing behind, it too should be followed up with a good coat of wax.

And in the world of surface care it's good to know the difference and not be fooled by waxes that are called polishes and visa versa. If you're trying to remove swirl marks with a polishes that's really just a wax, good-luck! A polish should feel gritty. And if the directions instruct you to let haze then wipe off, this is a good indication that this product is really a wax or it's a combination wax/polish (sometimes called cleaner waxes) which IMHO don't really work all that well. Just remember, polishes are abrasive and remove minor imperfections. But because they are abrasive it's important not to overuse a polish. A once a year, once over plus some here and there spot treatments for minor scratches or swirl marks is all you really need.

Wax, on the other hand, seals and protects your paint's finish from oxidation and harmful road junk, and brings out the true luster of your car's paint. I like Carnauba Wax because it's nature's hardest, purest and most transparent wax. And that’s why it’s the best wax for surface care. Carnauba tends to produce a deeper, darker, richer shine than any other wax. And it also won't build up like the synthetic / polymer type of waxes, which can leave your car looking dull even milky and that's just no good! A good coat of Carnauba Wax can last up to 3 months. It also beads water nicely, absorb the acid content in rain, and hides minor swirls in the paint.

There’s also quick detailing sprays for those in between touch ups. These are great but they don’t replace washing and waxing, sorry. But when used regularly, you should have to wash and wax less often.

Here is a link to some more surface care Myths and Tips
http://www.stufproducts.com/store/ar...ths_index.html
(just so you know, this is where I work)

Hope this helps and have fun detailing your baby!

[flatlander757]

Thank you guys so much! I'm really considering springing for a load of Zaino because I've NEVER heard one bad thing about it, and the photos of it look amazing. Could I do some decent freshening up with about $100-150 of stuff? I don't know what any of it costs or where to get it.

[Les7K]

I, myself, don't care for Zaino (course I am a little bias). Too many steps and prep for me. And again I like a good Carnauba personally, and stay away for the polymers.

But there are many good things said about Ziano. People swear by. So if it's your choice, go for it! Just be sure to read all the product directions for best results. You can get Zaino products at: http://www.zainostore.com

-------------------
My ride

[flatlander757]

I've been looking around and it appears that this would be ideal for me:

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...ct_Code=ZKIT-1

I was wondering, is Zaino not supposed to be used with a wax? I didn't see any on their page at all...

[NerveAgent]

Carnauba Wax. Think of it as the most rich, delicious chocolate.

[Les7K]

Originally Posted by NerveAgent

Carnauba Wax. Think of it as the most rich, delicious chocolate.

That's a great description! but now I'm craving chocolate! mmmmm chocolate....

[highteknology]

what's the difference between a polishing compound and a rubbing compound?

also, should you clay bar then polish or vice versa?

it's about time i detail my car again, and i have yet to polish it.

[Les7K]

A rubbing compound is more aggressive than a polishing compound. Rubbing compounds are generally used for more agressive tasks such as initial buffing after color sanding. And because they do cut quicker, they really should only be used by those who know what they're doing.

Polishing compounds are finer abrasives and are used for maintenance, such as to get rid of light scratches and swirl marks and for a final polishing after color sanding. They also condition the paint, eliminate light oxidation, and create a high gloss. Though they're not as abrasive as rubbing compounds, polishing compounds should not be overused. An occasional application plus some spot treatments for minor scratches or swirl marks is what polish is best for.

Should you clay or polish first... really depends on what you're tying to accomplish.

If your paint is rough or gritty to the touch after you wash, or has such problems as water marks, light oxidation ... you know, gunk (yes, that's a technical term) that's on the paint surface, then a clay bar should do the trick. A clay bar will grab ahold of these surface impurities and lift them out. AND a clay bar is non abrasive.

If your paint has swirl marks, light scratches or tough watermarks/oxidation a clay bar won't work. You'll need abrasion here so that's where polish comes in.

So you see, you don't necessary have to do one then the other. But if you've got a combination of these problems I would start by using clay overall. This should remove most of your problems. Then you can use a polish if needed. But remember to finish off with a good coat of wax since both of these products will remove any wax that's on the paint.

[Winston Wolf]

Check out Finish Kare FK1

Pink Wax
2180

www.fk1usa.com


Their products get a lot of press on some of the detailer sites.