Question about tamiya compound

[patoffspyder]

Hi guys,

I wanna start to put wax and compound on my models. There is 3 kinds of compounds done by Tamiya, do I need them all? Which one should I get? I can get a pack on the 3 kinds for 16 $US. Is it a good price? If I use compound, do I need Wax too? Which kind of wax should I get?

Where I live, it's really hard to get compound and wax for plastic models, is there any other alternative, like wax for real cars?

Thanks!

[freakmech]

the automotive store near you should have Meguiar's. there Schratch X is a great compound and Gold Class is a great wax. but Tamiya products are very nice!

[pre98zetec]

I use 3m Rubbing compound and Tamiya "finish" compound. Both work great together.

[mickbench]

I used gold class, it takes some TS spray paint with it when you rub it off.. I use Tamiya Wax, it's superb.

Megs step 3 wax is also very good. As for compound, I like the fine to help cut the suface to bring back a shine after 6000 grit micro mesh, and then I now use Scatch X. Really brings up the shine..!!

[Scale-Master]

That is a very good price for all three Tamiya compounds. I really like them. Use them sparingly and practice before going to town on a prized project. A little goes a long way.
You will also need a wax. A fine automotive wax will work great. Pre-softened wax is usually easier on models, but again test first... - Mark

[MustangMuscle]

Beware of automotive polishes and waxes on enamel and acrylic paints! They contain some solvents that dissolve these finishes, so they are applicable for any automotive lacquer job only (and Tamiya lacquers, to some extent).

I prefer to use products specifically intended for hobby use, like the Tamiya compounds you talk about (coarse, fine, finish), they give a superb finish on any paint type. Perhaps alittle more expensive, but your $16 investment will last at least 10 models, perhaps 20 depending on the amount of polishing needed (but they are meant to be used on a surface that is already polished using polishing cloths up to 6000-8000).

The Tamiya wax is a superb product, it can be used on kit glass too, is easy to apply and buff, does not leave any swirl mark, and is rather cheap as the $10 it costs will again last for 20-40 models. This is years of modeling in my case!! Plus it fits in my modeling toolbox better than the Meguiars pint bottle!!

[patoffspyder]

Thanks for your help guys,
Now the only thing I have some troubles to find is the tamiya wax. I can got this for 10 US$. Is it too much?

Which type of abrasive paper do I need?

I use Tamiya TS Spray paint, is it a lacquer paint?

You tell me to practice, but on what I should practice? A cheap plastic model?

Thanks a lot guys, you really help me out.

[chato de shamrock]

i bought the three compounds early last month and tried them out. yesterday night i rubbed on the "finish" compound. I went through it three times with each compound to make sure i get the best results. Before i did this i decided to apply a couple coats of paint to the model so that the paint wont completely come off when i apply the rubbing compounds. This afternoon i applied a spray wax called "the final detail" from a company called "The Treatment."
hoo hmm. didnt get the result i wanted....
I was going for a similar result to Josh's mustang cobra... a mirror shine. Im a beginner with all these wax procedures. Perhaps i did it wrong?
I started building lowrider models back in high school (8+ yrs ago) but dropped it cause of a lack with time due to girlfriends. Now i got more time to myself and started building again. ive never waxed my models before and this is my second model i wax. the first (4dr skyline) was a gunmetal color. i tried the "coarse" compound followed by " the final detail" wax and the result was somewhat shiny. i just finished my (JDM integra) using the three compounds plus the wax and it came out clean but not the mirrior shine i was aiming for, so im not pleased.
im thinking of going to my somewhat local hobby shop to buy and try out the wax "the treatment" offered in a jar. i read on this site by a couple members that it worked for them. again, perhaps i did something wrong. i rubbed the Tamiya compounds gently and kept changing my rag when paint seemed to build up, i rubbed on the compound three times each tub for what i thought would be best results. maybe the spray in the bottle isnt the way to go? maybe i should have gone for the solution in the jar? Maybe it was the paint i used (testors #2909 light ivory)? I really want to try out Tamiya's wax but have no clue where to get it. No hobby shops here (IN L.A.) offer it and only one shop in burbank offers the rubbing compounds. I also havent found the wax online.
If i did something wrong please point it out guys. I'll gladly take your responces as advice and not bi***ing.

[chato de shamrock]

Originally Posted by patoffspyder

Hi guys,

I wanna start to put wax and compound on my models. There is 3 kinds of compounds done by Tamiya, do I need them all? Which one should I get? I can get a pack on the 3 kinds for 16 $US. Is it a good price? If I use compound, do I need Wax too? Which kind of wax should I get?

Where I live, it's really hard to get compound and wax for plastic models, is there any other alternative, like wax for real cars?

Thanks!

Ive read from other members that the compunds work like the sandpaper except they are in a paste like substance. One person used toothpaste and our teeth as an example. i guess another example is the "coarse" compound would be... lets say 150 grit sandpaper, "fine" compound would be... say 320 grit, and lastly the "finish" compound would be... say 600 grit sandpaper. Its preferable that you do not skip a step but weird thing for me is i used coarse compound and a wax spray on one car and it came out with a small mirror shine look. pleasent but not like josh's cobra. I tried all three compounds plus the wax spray to another model and it just got this clean look but no mirror shine at all. Weird.

[Hawk312]

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

Ive read from other members that the compunds work like the sandpaper except they are in a paste like substance. One person used toothpaste and our teeth as an example. i guess another example is the "coarse" compound would be... lets say 150 grit sandpaper, "fine" compound would be... say 320 grit, and lastly the "finish" compound would be... say 600 grit sandpaper.

Yep, you got it right! You need to add about 10,000 to those final numbers though. And believe it or not, you can use toothpaste in place of Tamiya compound, as long as it is just "regular" toothpaste (no baking soda, etc). I did this once with great results. However it is *very* difficult to work with. Plus the model smells "minty fresh".

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

Its preferable that you do not skip a step but weird thing for me is i used coarse compound and a wax spray on one car and it came out with a small mirror shine look. pleasent but not like josh's cobra. I tried all three compounds plus the wax spray to another model and it just got this clean look but no mirror shine at all. Weird.

I havent found a difference between the "fine" and "finish" Tamiya compounds. I can get a nearly perfect mirror finish with the "fine" compound. I am sorry to tell you this, but on most of my projects, the only way to get a mirror finish is to rub until I think my arm is going to fall off. I am probably a little more picky than most though when it comes to this. I use polish only to add depth. The finish should be like glass before polishing.

[chato de shamrock]

i just bought the "the treatment" wax in jar yesterday. So far right now i took a break from working on the model. Ive waxed about half the model so far but still, all i get is a clean (just washed my car) look. I was actually wanting to get the mirror shine. Im very picky and look at detail so last night i started over with the rubbing compound and applied wax today.
Could it be the paint i chose? Do some paints such as those we would use for the interior dash boards, seats, floor, and doors just cant get that mirror shine? Flats for example. If we wanted the mirror shine finish would we have to avoid flat colors, and stick to glosses and metalics? I painted my model a light ivory (#2909) from model masters or "testers." The color does look like what we would use to replicate a brown leather interior but slightly lighter. I have a car picture with the paint color i was aiming for but the picture is too big to load. You guys think it might have been the color i chose?

By the way, ive been trying to figure out what "orange peel" is. i've seen it mentioned a lot but cant figure out what that means. Can anyone help out offering their definition?

[lionel pedro]

Compound and wax from Tamiya are great ! With just a little effort you can change a bad paint finish to a wonderful one with great shine. Here is an example from my Nismo Z Xanavi :

Before


After

[mijcam]

Yes the Tamiya compounds are great and a little does go a long way. The finish compound leaves it smooth and shiney. I follow up with a Novus 1 buff and it looks like a mirror . My 2 cents Highly recomend . Yes some automotive waxes destroy acrylic finishes ,I found out the hard way all finished and thinking Im doing my final polish ,Not!! CSC bath. Live and learn and repaint .
Jim