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#1
07-30-2005, 06:25 PM
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Any tips for removing a header?
My car has the 2.4L spyder engine. Since no one seems to make an aftermarket header for this car, I have decided to wrap the stock header. I have already ordered the suplies. I was just wondering if anyone has any tips on the easiest way to remove the header, because I have never done this before. And of course there is a little rust on the header and bolts. So what should I do? Should I just spray a can of WD-40 on the bolts and let it sit for a few minutes then try removing the bolts?
Thanks for the help! 
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#2
07-30-2005, 09:13 PM
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Re: Any tips for removing a header?
Spray a bunch of liquid wrench or wd-40 on the bolts. If the heat shield is on, loosen the bolts and make sure you can take off. Do this before the day you decide to do it. Gives you time to get everything ready. Break the bolts on the header before you decide to get it all done. If you have time, you don't need to put it all back together.
In short... loosen everything up. It's not too bad
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2013 Chevy Sonic 1LZ Daily Driver, 1.4L Turbo, 6spd 75 Monte Carlo SBC 400 6.6L, Aluminum heads, Hurricane Intake... 12 Chevy Sonic 1LZ 1.8L - Traded 01 Pontiac Grand Am SE - RIP 95 Eagle Talon ESi-T 5spd - RIP 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera- RIP
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#4
07-30-2005, 09:40 PM
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I would soak the hell out of those bolts. Spray them a couple days before and spray them at night once your done driving this way they can soak over night. Good luck. Old bolts aren't fun.
__________________
--the Cruiser-->97 Spyder GST 5sp ---3 inch exhaust, boost/vac gauge, mbc, greddy turbo timer, greddy fmic, greddy type S BOV, 17in wheels --the DD-->99 ACURA 3.2 TL --Sold 92TSi AWD, 6-bolt, auto, evo 3 gt turbo with supporting mods
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#5
07-31-2005, 02:26 AM
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Re: Any tips for removing a header?
PB blaster works amazingly well at helping with rusted bolts, you should be able to get it at automotive stores
__________________
95 GSX:FMIC, 6-bolt, evo 3 16g, 2600 act clutch, 1g bov (crushed), and a 3" turbo back exhaust, dsmlink, dks 272 cams, wideband 02, Coming soon 2.3L Stroker, 1mm oversized valves, crower sprigs. 91 TSI AWD auto, gm 3.5 maf, maft, fmic, emanage, profec e-01, 3" turbo bk exhaust +more little stuff. http://www.ratemydsm.com/member/ez1286/?member=ez1286  
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#6
08-02-2005, 01:59 AM
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The real trick to it is PB blaster. Every night when you're done driving, soak them down and let it sit overnight. Oh, and let the manifold cool off first or you're just gonna burn off the PB blaster. Come game day, when loosening the bolts, loosen it, then tighten it a bit, then loosen again, and tighten a bit. This keeps everything in there from jamming up and stripping out threads. Continuous force just breaks shit. I learned this from a socket wrench and a breaker bar 2 weeks ago. I had to have 3 of the bolts at the base of the manifold retapped. Good luck!
__________________
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD MOD LIST: ______________________ Mitsubishi s16g, Turboback 2 1/2 in. w/ Hi-Flow Cat, ACT 2600 Clutch, K&N Filter, Taylor 10.5 mm Spark Plug Wires, BPR7ES Plugs, Dejon Tool UICP, Turbo XS Type H BOV, Samborskey Shift Kit, Walbro 255lph, Injector Clinic 550's, 2g mas, Vaccum line elimination, SAFC II, Pocketlogger, 17" Motegi Gloss Black Rims, VIS Carbon Fiber Hood, Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB AGX, Homemade boost controller, Autometer Boost/Air Fuel
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