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#1
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To date I have removed chrome from parts by soaking in DOT 3/4 - it comes of fine with a toothbrush but takes a few days to get it all off.DOT3 bath is always glittery with bits of chrome plate residue.
Recently though I read about using bleach to remove chrome so I tried it out with Domestos Gel. After about 10 seconds the chrome fades away in front of me and the part is colour of original plastic. No visible residue left in the bleach. I was so surprised at the speed that I decided to look closer and it seems to me that there is still a kind of "film" over the pieces that is probably coming form the original chroming process. Here's my question: did the chrome just bleach the colour away or did it remove the chrome? Can I just prime over this slightly glossy film and then paint or do I need to remove that too? Would be gratefull if other "bleachers" would share their experience with me. Thanks in advance.
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Guideline for happy modeling: Practice on scrap. Always try something new. Less is more. "I have a plan so cunning, you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel" - Edmund Blackadder |
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#2
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Kit chrome is a two-layer process. The outer layer being the visible chrome plating and the inner layer of clear paint that is applied underneath the chrome. If that clear paint wasn't applied, the chrome would not be shiny. W/bleach you have only removed the outer layer of plating which is very thin.
Most people will tell you to remove the clear as well, but if you are painting the part and the clear isn't too thick and isn't filling in detail, I'd just leave it as-is, just use the clear as a primer and save the time it takes to completely remove the clear which can take awhile. Only if I'm restoring chrome parts by sending them to a service to have them replated will I remove all the clear underneath.
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My Fotki Album |
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#3
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Re: removing chrome question
Quote:
So what do you use to remove the clear paint? DOT? You're lucky to have access to a re-chroming service I suppose the final result really is better than kit chroming or alclad2
__________________
Guideline for happy modeling: Practice on scrap. Always try something new. Less is more. "I have a plan so cunning, you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel" - Edmund Blackadder |
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#4
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Oven cleaner takes the chrome and clear base off in one step, it should take the clear off too... - Mark
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#5
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try csc, leave the chrome parts in there for about an hour and everything comes off without scrubbing
__________________
Formerly Blownalcoholboy 1986 Z28, 400ci SBC, Twin borg warner billet S467 turbos, Reid case powerglide, Moser 9". Holley EFI, Boost Leash. 950RWHP on pump gas, 1200rwhp on race gas (22 psi) Best ET 1/4: 8.35 @ 170mph (275 drag radial) Best ET 1/8: 5.44 @ 132mph (275 drag radial) Best 60': 1.31 on the back tires (275 drag radial) AF User Rules/Guidelines http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...uidelines.html |
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#6
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I have been using vinegar for quite a while. It seems to work very well, quite fast, and isn't nearly as caustic as some of the other methods. I don't know if it's leaving the clear film or not, as I usually paint right over the stripped part.
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#7
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Re: removing chrome question
Not all companies use the clear layer under the chrome. Fujimi for instance don't. Not sure about Tamiya, Revell certainly do.
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#8
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Re: Re: removing chrome question
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BTW this is a kit I should have tackled with more experience under my belt - talk about bad filtting!!
__________________
Guideline for happy modeling: Practice on scrap. Always try something new. Less is more. "I have a plan so cunning, you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel" - Edmund Blackadder |
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#9
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Re: removing chrome question
oven leaner is the quick and easy way to remve chrome and all hidden underneath layers
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Current and past projects: [ ![]()
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#10
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Re: removing chrome question
I heard Castro Super Clean works the best for stripping paint. But I'm not sure if it will work on chrome.
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#11
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Re: Re: removing chrome question
Quote:
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Drive A Datsun, Then Decide. |
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