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#1
07-27-2005, 04:40 PM
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clutch questions
Well it's time for a new clutch, this is on my 91 rt tt daily driver. I was planning on getting RPS MAX street clutch but after getting the 60k service done last weekend i'm kind of short on cash. Now I'm planing on getting either the Spec stage I or II, which i found for about 400, or maybe still even the RPS. My question is, since this is on my daily driver... which of thoes clutches would I get the most miles out of with daily diving and of course some races here and there and maybe a track pass or two... or three. incase you're wondering the cars other mods... pretty much BPU.
-MBC (14psi) -Dn y-pipe -hks bov -3' 3sx downpipe -no cat -3' atr dual exhaust -egr blockoffs -vac reduction With my mods would I be better off with the stage I organic or II kevlar? or if you have any advice on other cluches it would greatly help. Thank you! 
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#2
07-27-2005, 07:17 PM
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Re: clutch questions
hmmm...honestly i'd just go with an OEM clutch. i'm sure that an OEM cluth will hold all the power you're putting down with just 14psi on stock turbos.
it's strange that everyone is always looking to upgrade their clutch and spending a lot of money consequently in doing so. what's wrong with the OEM clutch? correct me if i'm wrong (turbo guys), but at what point (horsepower) does the OEM clutch fail to perform sufficiently? i would think around 400hp. so unless your OEM clutch hasn't been performing the way you'd like, then i would just stick with OEM and save you wallet some pain. definitely for a daily driver, DON'T go with a 6-puck...that's a given. i know all those people advertise kevlar, titanium, plutonium, uranium 235, and stage 1,234,567...but is it just the 'new thing' that attracts everyone or is there a considerable improvement over OEM but not quite at the 6-puck level that's worth buying, even if you're not putting down over 400hp? just some food for thought and my 
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit
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#3
07-27-2005, 07:33 PM
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Re: clutch questions
well the big clutch i got from southbend is suppose to be able to handle over 475hp
with his bpu's he is near or at the 400hp mark so a slightly stronger clutch would be my advise. but if money is an issue and your not gonna be on the gas much, then the regular should hold for awhile.
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#4
07-27-2005, 11:45 PM
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Re: clutch questions
+1 what young said.
If you check out 3si, there are a bunch of comparison/review threads on various clutches. I'd check them out for a little research.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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