new here and need help

[92Cougar]

i have a couple of questions. first are there any mid 90's mazda mx-6 out there in any scale or a ford probe.what kind of glue do you guys recommend?

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

No MX6's in any scale were produced.

AMT made Ford Probe models for 1989 and 1990 (there was some restyling), and an IMSA version w/funky looking bodywork.

[g00eY]

welcome!

[92Cougar]

thanks anyway what about the glue which is a good one to buy?

[g00eY]

oh yea. sorry i missed that question. i used Ambroid Plastic Welder. it has been working well for me except for sometimes it takes awhile to set. but once it sets you have to pull quite hard to take the pieces apart. not to mention it smells like tangerines.

[MPWR]

For glue, all you really need to know is use liquid glue for plastic models, and STAY AWAY from tube glue.

Brand doesn't matter. No plastic glue really outperforms another. Testors, Tamiya, Tenax, whatever. Don't stress about it, just make sure it's liquid type, not tube.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

In my glue arsenal, one type of glue just isn't enough.

I agree w/the others, avoid tube glue. It'll case sink marks long after the model is finished. It continues to soften the plastic for months.

As for welding raw styrene pieces, the liquid cements are good. I particularly like Tenax for kits, though Ambroid Weld On is good, but it tends to dry almost too rapidly.

For assembling parts that may already be painted/detailed, I use superglue-the kinds made for plastic kits and found in hobby shops. I use superglue and the superglue accelerator together, using a drop of superglue on the part I'm gluing to, and a bit of accelerator applied w/a Q Tip on the part I'm going to be gluing in place. This makes for rapid assembly. I have a "puddle" of superglue and a toothpick for it.

For clear parts that I don't want to damage w/any glue, I use Formula 560 Canopy glue. It's a very strong white glue that's got more "stick" than white glue when wet, and is incredibly strong when dry. I use it for headlights, taillights, some windows, and some smaller parts like doorhandles.

For mirrors and small parts that are easily broken off, I like using 5 minute epoxy.

[mickbench]

I use many types of glue.

I tend to use liquid glue to join parts that are not painted, or need a VERY strong join, as this cements the parts together. I use Revell Contacta or Tamiya.

When the parts are already painted, if I can get the paint off, or get parts of the paint from the two parts marked enough, and it shows some plastic that I can join with, I tend to use Tamiya Thin. This is superb glue, as it goes where you want it to go, and it doesn't leak out as much.

If I can't get the paint off, or there are some chrome parts, where I can't get all the chrome off, I use Tamiya Quick CA. I test fit first, a few times, as I practice getting the parts lined up, then I apply a small amount of CA to both parts, and then push them together. About 30 secs, and it's joined.

And for areas where I DO NOT want to burn paint, leave marks, clear parts etc, I use clear glue from Micro Scale.

This might seem a lot of glue, but I tried to build my first car with one glue, and half way through it I was searching out better ideas.. From my second build onwards, I've used the above glues, and it has made it so much easier..

Oh - welcome to AF..