Phsyco cooling fan from hell.

[peppermrj]

After a thorough cooling system flush, a new thermostat, new coolant tank cap, and a new waterpump all I have not figtured out is my rad fan. I can let the 96 SC2 idle for ten minutes and no fan. I turned the AC on and no fan. I disconnected the ECTS and jumped the wire connecter and the fan ran. I also disconnected the air charge sensor. The fan will run with out the ECTS jumped also. I am seriously concerned about all of this as I do not want to cook a motor or a new water pump. Is there some definitive way to know the cooling fan is operating properly.
Thanxs in advance.

[sierrap615]

correct me if i'm wrong - the fan will turn on if the ECT is jumpered or the PCM enter diagnostic mode, the fan will not turn on with the A/C or when the engine is hot.

is the A/C working properly?
the ECT is the new version correct?
was the car bought new or used?

[peppermrj]

Originally Posted by sierrap615

correct me if i'm wrong - the fan will turn on if the ECT is jumpered or the PCM enter diagnostic mode, the fan will not turn on with the A/C or when the engine is hot.

is the A/C working properly?
the ECT is the new version correct?
was the car bought new or used?

thanxs for the response. It looks like I was chasing a ghost and you were on the right track.

The AC does not work. Next project. The fan finally did come on but only after the temp gauge past the halfway mark.

[sierrap615]

Originally Posted by peppermrj

The AC does not work. Next project. The fan finally did come on but only after the temp gauge past the halfway mark.

sounds like the fan is operating normal to me.

if you have a blacklight availible, use it to check the underhood a/c components, with any luck there is/was tracer dye in the system and if you have a leak it should show up.

[peppermrj]

Originally Posted by sierrap615

sounds like the fan is operating normal to me.

if you have a blacklight availible, use it to check the underhood a/c components, with any luck there is/was tracer dye in the system and if you have a leak it should show up.

Two days no leaks, no overheating, no air. I used the light and dye bit and found a trace around the hose connections but a good leak in the condensor ( radiator type deal in front of the rad). Nothing that a couple of hundred won't cure. Woud you recommend new or is used an option?

[sierrap615]

i don't have expearince ether way, but i would say new. R-134a can be very corrosive when mixed with the slightest bit of water (as little as one drop of water per 100 LB of R-134a). with used, you don't know what you are getting.