coolant elbo broke again WHY?!?!?!?

[shortofnuthing]

Ok on the left side of the motor there is a pump behind/under the alternator that has 2 hoses running into it and out is a plastic elbo that runs into the lower intake manifold. Ever sence i put my GT1 cam in my car that hose just broke for the second time today and now i have to replace it. WHY IS IT BREAKING??????

if anyone can help me out that would be awesome

[richtazz]

the piece that the hose goes into is your belt tensioner assembly. I would bet that the spring loaded arm on the tensioner is going bad, causing a vibration that is breaking the plastic elbow.

[gm_geezer]

Ok I have the same problem. I have replaced the belt tensioner assembly and this 97 3.8 chews through heater bypass elbows like candy. I can't remenber how many I have replaced (At least 3 this year). Anybody have a fix? I love the car but I am tired of being stranded at night in high crime areas.

[gm_geezer]

Any Ideas on the cause or possible remedy? I would really like to start driving this car again (further than I'm willing to walk). Thanks in advance

[troy1]

Dumb question but do you have everything tight? are you buy GM elbows or cheap aftermarket ones? Got to be a vibration or alignment issue

[gm_geezer]

Thanks for the reply, I belive everything is tight. The original was GM but the others were what I could find (mostly the H.E.L.P. tree Items) just to get going again.

Now time for my dumb question. Is there a difference between GM and aftermarket plastic elbows. If it is that simple I'll just puke. Not in the car of course.

[richtazz]

Questions? What year is your car?, and what belt do you have on it? If it's a 97, there were two different belts, 1st and 2nd production. If you have the wrong one on, it can cause a vibration that would break those elbows. Also, check your water pump. If there is any lateral play in the pulley, it could be the cause, even if it isn't leaking yet.

[gm_geezer]

Thanks for the reply. Ahh the quest starts to pay off. This board is great.

Yes the car is a 97. Currently it has an aftermarket gatorback belt. The reason the tensioner was replace is because the tensioner belt pulley bearing froze and threw the belt. A very very good freind ran a new tensioner assembly and belt to me and helped me repair it on a saturday night in downtown Chicago. I didn't have much a selection for parts since I just wanted to get my car and family home (The quicker the better).

Now, how would I find out about the different builds and which parts were used and which I should have? I'll check the waterpump play this weekend.

[richtazz]

The GM computer doesn't break it at a specific Vin#, so you'll have to check the alternator stampings for identification
1st design: Alternator stamped "B3" and "10480065
2nd design: Alternator stamped "N4" and "10480240"
The alternator stampings are applicable to both the GT and GTP models for identifying the 1st and 2nd design issue on the main belt (GTP's have a 2nd belt for the supercharger) and the Good year belt numbers are as follows:
1st design: 4060930 (oem belt #24505042)
2nd design: 4060935 (oem belt #24506984)
GTP S/C belt: 4060660 (just for reference)
Basically, there is a 1/2" difference in the belt length. If you put the short belt on a 2nd design, it will pull the tensioner too far back and put stress on the tensioner mount. If you put the longer belt on a 1st design, it could allow the belt to slack due to the tensioner being extended too far out.
I hope this information helps.