Rear disc brakes on a 00 Silverado

tommygfunk · #1 07-21-2005, 02:44 AM

Can you-all give me a heads up on replacing the rear brakes and E-brake in my 00? I am just looking for hidden problems and tips for ease. The E-brake is real limp but she seams to stop well so if you can help.

tgf

Seabornman · #2 07-21-2005, 08:02 AM

There are several good threads on the subject - do a search. Make sure you have a good six point socket for the caliper bolts (16 or 18mm I can't remember) and jack it up high enough to get a breaker bar and cheater pipe to loosen them. They are on there snug. You may need a hardware kit for your e-brake shoes if you live where everything rusts together. Pay attention to e-brake adjustment - not too loose, not too tight. As much of a pain as it is, you may want to go all the way and replace the axle seals.

99redsilverado · #3 07-21-2005, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seabornman

As much of a pain as it is, you may want to go all the way and replace the axle seals.

negative...you have to pull the axles...i would wait for them to start leakin a little bit before i would think about doing that...

TGF:do you have anything done to the cherokee??? i have a 85 grand wagoneer sitting on 35s, i love the old, big jeeps...

ole01 · #4 07-21-2005, 11:49 AM

You do not have to pull the axles to replace the rear emerg. shoes. Once you free them from their hold down's, you will be able to work them off of the hubs. Even though the repair manual requires that you pull the axles, you do not have to. This information was given to me from my local Chevy service dealer and verified my myself on my last pad change.

Seabornman · #5 07-21-2005, 03:02 PM

You do not have to pull the axles to replace the shoes. You do have to pull the axles to remove the casting that holds the emergency brake hardware, if needed. On my truck, it was all rusted up and I had to pull that stuff off to fix. I know as much trouble as it was to get to that point, pulling the axles was a breeze. Got some fresh fluid in the diff, and cleaned and painted the cover. The last K1500 I had starting leaking at the axle seals at 120,000 miles.

99redsilverado · #6 07-22-2005, 11:18 AM

i didnt say you had to pull the axle for the parking brake shoes...i said AXLE SEALS

JDFester · #7 07-23-2005, 07:41 AM

Mine had the same problem (weak emeerg. brakes, but regular brakes work fine). I checked the price of the emerg. brake shoes, and decided to see if they were really bad; glad I did! Turns out the emerg brake is a drum type brake where the drum is the center part of the disc. It has adjusters just like typical drum brakes, which are subject to getting jammed with brake dust. For mine, I just had to take the adjuser apart and clean it; much cheaper than a new $90 set of shoes for nothing but parking brakes!

redneck45 · #8 10-13-2005, 06:11 AM

Ok, old post, but I got my shoes loose and can not see how they will come off without pulling the axles!? The shoes are totally shot at 75k miles on my '99 silvy, what little friction material that was left was easily picked off with my fingernail!

redneck45 · #9 10-13-2005, 07:19 AM

Ah, just fingered it out, I cut the damn shoes in half with a metabo. I am going to leave the shoes off (yes that is right) cause the drum part of the rotors are shot too. So why put all this time and $ into something that is still not going to work right (I read all the posts on e-brake issues). Anyone ever do this? We don't have inspections here in MI so that will not be an issue. Brakes work fine other than the e-brake, pads calipers and disk rotors look great!

BlenderWizard · #10 10-13-2005, 07:23 AM

I never use mine, anyway. I had a mechanic once who made fun of people with automatic transmissions who used the ebrake when parking

redneck45 · #11 10-13-2005, 11:05 AM

Well, I just always used my e-brake on steep hills and when backing boat in--so we will see if the parking pin in the tranny will hold, cause I'm done with the brakes, no use puttin shoes in there that are just going to drag/overheat/wear out! Anyone out there swap a drum brake rear in out of the last body style trucks??

BlenderWizard · #12 10-13-2005, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redneck45

Well, I just always used my e-brake on steep hills and when backing boat in--so we will see if the parking pin in the tranny will hold, cause I'm done with the brakes, no use puttin shoes in there that are just going to drag/overheat/wear out! Anyone out there swap a drum brake rear in out of the last body style trucks??

I've thought about that, but it would probably be easier/cheaper just to get a whole rear end out of a junkyard

redneck45 · #13 10-14-2005, 07:13 AM

That is what I was thinkin, like a 14 bolt posi from a '98 1500! My old '98 1500 had the 14 bolt drum rear end and it was bullit proof. I just wonder if the spring perch is different in the NBS trucks? I know the shock mounts are different.

BlenderWizard · #14 10-14-2005, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redneck45

That is what I was thinkin, like a 14 bolt posi from a '98 1500! My old '98 1500 had the 14 bolt drum rear end and it was bullit proof. I just wonder if the spring perch is different in the NBS trucks? I know the shock mounts are different.

That wouldn't work. You'll have to get a rear off an '06 to get a woring rear end with drum brakes. OBS rear ends won't work on a NBS truck, unless you want to cut the mounting brackets off and weld new ones in the right spots. If you do that, make sure your wheels will bolt up

redneck45 · #15 10-14-2005, 11:28 AM

I figured that, just dreamin I guess. Also, all the 05's I've seen have drum rears.

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