Is the fuel pump going bad or is it something else?

[Jay Beezy]

I have a 92 Lumina Euro that has me stumped. When I crank it up in the mornings it will run fine. But, as soon as I put it into drive, it will cut off. It will do keep doing this unless I give it a little gas before i put it into drive.
Recently, I can drive the car and when I hit the brakes, sometimes it will seem like it's trying to die out and other times it will when the car comes to a stop and idling at a light. I know that the rpms are kind of low when it to stall out like that at the light. If I put my foot on the gas while I'm at the light, it'll keep running.

I checked to see if any codes would come up when I checked the computer and all I got was the code "12" (one flash, pause, two flashes) over and over which means everything is fine. But, I'm wondering if this problem is a vaccum problem or is it possible that my fuel pump is going bad or that i have some trash in my fuel line.

The car will jerk sometimes while I'm driving it along the highway, too. Which problem do you think this is? A vaccum problem or is my fuel pump going bad or do I have trash in my fuel line? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[tblake]

sounds to me a little like the tcc. Check the furums a little but. does it idle perfect, and run fine once you do get it into drive? If so, this is most likely your bet. Dr instead of overdrive, try just drive, or 3. Does it go into any gear without stalling? Reverse?

[tblake]

I must mention I know nothing about the tcc, all I know is what I've learned from these forums, someone will guide you in the right direction here shorly, probably the mighty jeffcoslacker. He's an expert about almost anything.

[jeffcoslacker]

I'm leaning toward the vacuum leak/lean idle idea here, just because the TCC is disabled when the motor is cold, and wouldn't be causing this. Also, when the TCC causes stalling, usually gassing it won't prevent the stall once it decides it's gonna.

The most common cause of lean idle stalling when cold is throttle plate deposits that are not allowing the plate to close fully, making the idle too lean. A cold engine is especially prone to this, as a rich mix is required until warmed up.

But you seem to be saying that it occurs all the time now, so Id be looking for a vacuum leak, if you see nothing try cleaning the throttle plate and bore with some spray cleaner, and also the idle air control that meters air past the throttle plate when the plate is closed may be sticking and not able to close fully when required. Remove and clean it as well. I think you'll find this solves the problem, most likely.

A sticky EGR can cause this too, but the EGR isn't active until fully warmed up also, so shouldn't cause it when first started, and will usually light the SES light when malfunctioning.

[Jay Beezy]

Oh yeah, now that you mention it, jeff I do get the SES light sometimes. But it only seems to come on when my gas is around 1/4 of a tank. It'll come on and when I mash the accelerator, it will go out.
That's why I was leaning towards the fuel pump but I will check everything out that you mentioned.

[57chevyragtop]

I agree with coslacker on the dirty trottle plate and bore but would add could be a plug wire going Just do an ohm check on them. I had this same problem with my 92 w/135,000 and TCC went at 140,000. I got in the habit of cleaning the Trottle plate every oil change, had it 11 years sold last week 146,000 mi. still runs like a top.

[Jay Beezy]

A few minutes ago, I was on my way home from the grocery store. When I got in the car and cranked it up, the SES light came on. It was at half a tank of gas. Then, once I hit the accelerator, it cut off.