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#1
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brake problems?
hi, first of all, YES, i did a search before posting, now the problem im having only happens once i starting driving for about 10-15 minutes, it never happens right away when i first start my car and take off, i hear a squeaking noise, im almost positive its coming from my front end (its kinda hard to tell when your inside the car, ya know), it does it constantly, when i go to press on my brakes the squeak goes away immediately, when i let off my brakes the squeak comes back a few seconds later, at first i thought my front brakes were going bad, so i took off both front tires, looked at the brakes, they looked fine, they looked like they were more then halfway through their life, but they werent anywhere near paper thin, the rotors have very small grooves in them (like a record) but i was told thats normal, also, those "squeakers" that come on the brakes, the things that are designed to squeak to let you know your brakes are getting really bad, i pulled both of those back with a pair of pliers, just in case that was the problem, i put the tires back on, took it for a test drive, the problem did not change, any suggestions????
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2001 Grand Prix GT: cat/u-bend/resonator delete, zzp PLOG, Custom Intake, DHP PCM, 1981 Fairmont 6cyl 3 speed 1978 Ford Ranchero GT 302 with a few goodies |
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#2
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Re: brake problems?
Sometimes, through heat, the outer most edges or the brake pad curl, ever so slightly, which can cause a squeal. Also the brake pad can glaze over, also heat induced, producing a mirror like finish. This causes the pad to be do hard for the rotor causing a squeal also.
You can try removing the brake pads and checking for this. If you have either 2, get some 120 grit sandpaper and first sand the surface area of the brake pad, then sand all edges on a 45 degree angle. When putting back together make sure to use a good silocone lube. I hope this helps. |
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#3
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that is some good information, you said thats heat induced which makes sense, it hasnt been below 90 degrees here in about 3 weeks, im gonna try putting a new set of pads on it this weekend, its only $20, if that doesnt fix the problem i think im gonna move on to the rotors, is there a chance it could be the rotors??
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2001 Grand Prix GT: cat/u-bend/resonator delete, zzp PLOG, Custom Intake, DHP PCM, 1981 Fairmont 6cyl 3 speed 1978 Ford Ranchero GT 302 with a few goodies |
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#4
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well i put new pads on yesterday, i was wrong about the old pads, they looked almost new, they were really thick yet, they werent glazed at all, they looked perfect, i put my new ones on anyways and havent heard 1 squeak yet,
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2001 Grand Prix GT: cat/u-bend/resonator delete, zzp PLOG, Custom Intake, DHP PCM, 1981 Fairmont 6cyl 3 speed 1978 Ford Ranchero GT 302 with a few goodies |
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#5
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Welcome to the land of GM rotors. Chances are give it another week or two and that damn sound will be back. Some parts on our cars just really suck a fat one.
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#6
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Re: brake problems?
Quote:
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2001 Grand Prix GT: cat/u-bend/resonator delete, zzp PLOG, Custom Intake, DHP PCM, 1981 Fairmont 6cyl 3 speed 1978 Ford Ranchero GT 302 with a few goodies |
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#7
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Re: brake problems?
Its not that big a deal. Just slap on some slotted rotors and some hawk performance pads and you will be stopping on a dime on edge noislessly in no time flat.
Everyone always spends so much time on going faster and sounding louder that not alot of people think about stopping quick. I would rather drop $200 for great stopping then that same $200 to get an extra 100hp if there was such a device that did such a thing. |
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#8
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if i had $200 and i could either get good brakes or 100 extra hp, i'd defintetly take the horsepower, but about the brakes, i dont care about stopping really fast, i stay in town most of the time and dont go over 40, (despite the occasional "need for speed") stock brakes work great at under 40 mph, i just dont like driving around town and everyone staring me down cuz they can hear my car, in the end if i HAVE to pay $200 go get my car quiet, i probably will, thank you for the brake advice though, is that what you have on your car?
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2001 Grand Prix GT: cat/u-bend/resonator delete, zzp PLOG, Custom Intake, DHP PCM, 1981 Fairmont 6cyl 3 speed 1978 Ford Ranchero GT 302 with a few goodies |
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#9
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Re: brake problems?
yip
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#10
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Re: Re: brake problems?
Quote:
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#11
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Re: Re: Re: brake problems?
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Using only slotted after market rotors only does the grater effect if you buy from a company that doesnt know their shit. If you go with brembo or powerslot to name a few off hand it doesnt have that much of an effect other then alot more of an added bite when stopping. It also cuts your wet stopping distance in half. Most people tend to stay more to either just cross drilled or cross drilled and slotted but I have seen too many rotors cracks thanks to the rigors of stop and go driving and high temp condition. With the cross drilling of some rotor brands once the metal hits its hotest point and having the drill holes it breaks down the structural integraty of the rotor and may crack. |
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#12
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Re: Re: Re: Re: brake problems?
how bout these?
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...tor&perfCode=S i didnt know breaks put off gas? thats nuts |
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#13
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Re: brake problems?
Yeah, like I said above powerslot does make some kick ass rotors that last great for every day driving.
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#14
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: brake problems?
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I have those powerslot rotors along with carbon metallic pads on my car. They work great and I really have little to no break dust. I didn't pay that much for them though. Try this http://performance.thepartsbin.com/b...66&brandid=100 Thats where I got my rotors, and yes they are the actual powerslot brand rotors.
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2001 Toyota Celica GT Check out my CarDomain at... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2493960 |
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