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#1
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Engine Mounts
I got 2 bolts broken off the drivers side; only one good out of three for the side. Now I am talking the 3 that go into engine block, on each side. The passenger side is all ok. So I took one from passenger side and bolted it into drivers side. Drives smooth. Where as before the clutch is all angled off, and slips, oil sump aint getting oil, oil in pan is all off to one side. How in the hell do you take a broken off bolt out of the thread?
My buddy that did it, was a freaking moron. He installed none Grade 8 bolts. So 2 snapped off. I ordered 3 - $7 bolts from dealer. What a rip, but its correct size and type. So I am babying it with only one bolt on drivers side, and 2 on passenger side. I think its called an Easy Out, but I never done it before. As far as I can tell I need a specific size drill bit for a specific size Easy Out. Are these hard to work on? Should I just hand it over to a mechanic? Should I buy a specific style of Easy Out? (Because there are different styles) I really need you'r help here. My friend is the type that literally everything coming out of his mouth is a lie. Its bugging the hell out of me, because I think he knows what he is doing, but today I realized he has no idea what he is doing on this. He did this job before, installing wrong bolts (thats why they broke AGAIN). But I read on the package of Easy Out, that you need a specific drill bit for each individual sized Easy Out. So I will do this job myself, but on my transfer case skid plate bolts, that are torqued far beyond engine mount to block bolts ( I broke 2 bolts off on the skid plate). If I can do it there, I can do the mount bolts. The friend will never do any critical work on my rig again. Just the body and paint, I will see how good his work really is compared to the BS that comes outta his mouth. Oh and I joined my first Jeep Club in my area. This is the type of club where everyone strictly has a Jeep. Many great hints, tricks and info gained. Even get cheap products, if not free. Like a front 93 YJ bumper. Mines busted in due to winter roads, when the previous owner first bought it and drove it. |
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#2
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I am suffering through something simular but not as crucial as the bolts you are getting out. I have 2 snapped off bolt on the rear seat mount. Problem is i am afraid to drill them out as they are close to brake lines under the rig. You can try drilling out the center out the bolt and if the find a simular size allen wrench and hammer it into the hole if the metal is somewhat soft the edges of the allen will bite into the sides of the broken bolt and you might be able to turn it. This is just a suggestion by no means am I an expert at these things. The reason this hasn't worked for me is the threads on the bolt sticking out underneath has been gunked up with undercoating. So backing the bolts out is near impossible . Good luck! GJ10
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#3
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Re: Engine Mounts
You can drill out the bolt, then tap it back to the correct size. You can get a decent kit for $30 that will come in handy later also.
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#4
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Re: Engine Mounts
Oh yea, down here Tractor Supply Company sells Grade 8 hardware for $2.80/lbs
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#5
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Re: Engine Mounts
I was thinking about the same thing. But that is a tricky thing because if you go to far in, the engine will be worthless. But I know the depth of them from the good ones. If I drill it out, I will most likely mess up the threads, and will have to go one size larger. I was also thinking of welding on new material to block.
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#6
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Re: Engine Mounts
Pull the block before you go to work on it. You'll need the room to work in anyway. You drill it just below the bolt size, and tap it to the actuall size. Alot of work for a little work.
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#7
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Re: Engine Mounts
What about a machine shop, they should be able to do it, no problem. A mechanic will most likely rip me off.
To tell you the truth, there is alot of room there, enough for a regular hand drill with its drill bit. Also barely enough room to hammer the easy out bit in. I would say about a foot and a half between frame rail and side of engine block. Enough room to use a tap and die set. |
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#8
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Re: Engine Mounts
If you do it yourself, you only realy have to worry about going to big, but then you just buy bigger bolts. Machinist charge $50 USD/hour round here. Buy a $50 tap abd die set, and do it yourself.
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#9
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Re: Engine Mounts
Wow I drove it pretty hard with 1 bolt on one side, 2 on other side. Drove 16 hours straight over bumps. I should leave it, but I wont.
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#10
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Re: Engine Mounts
There's 3 bolts for a reason! Don't cause yourself a bigger problem.
If you're worried about drilling too deep, then just shorten up the drill bit so it doesn't stick out of the chuck too far.
__________________
Ours: 2020 Jeep Wrangler 2.0, 53k 2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser, 84k Kids: 2005 Honda CRV, 228k |
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#11
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You can wrap your drill bit with a piece of tap to the depth you need. Just a suggestion.
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