4 Wheel Drive Problems

[stuckey77]

I have a 1994 Dodge Ram 2500 V10. Today I put it in 4 wheel drive and took it for a drive. When I put it back into 2 Wheel the 4 Wheel drive light stayed on. I put it back into 4 than when I went to switch it back down it made a grinding noise and vibrated the shifter. I used it like i have before. Can anyone help me? It would helpful.

[sharter]

Is it still stuck in 4 wheel?

[stuckey77]

The shifter shows it is in 2 wheel but the 4 wheel light is on.

[sharter]

Originally Posted by stuckey77

The shifter shows it is in 2 wheel but the 4 wheel light is on.

Maybe you can try this to see if it is still locked in 4 wheel. Jack up the front end and see if you are able to turn the wheels. I would say that if in 4 wheel you should feel some resistance. If in 2 wheel I think more freely maybe? And if the light is still on maybe it is still in 4 wheel and there may be a linkage problem. I'm just kind of guessing. Have you tried to move the shifter back to 4 wheel and then back again?

[wilwith1l]

First thing you have to do is find out if it is actually in 4. If it's a manual you can do what sharter said, and the wheels will not turn if it is in gear in four. If it's an auto, put it on stands, and turn the front drive shaft. if the wheels turn it's in four. IF it is actually in four trace the shifter rods to the T case to make sure they are allright. IF it isn't in 4 but the light stays on, it's probably a problem with the switch.

[stuckey77]

When I put the shifter in 4 and tried to move it back it made the grinding noise.

[sharter]

I'm not sure but it sounds like a gear problem. Maybe take it to a transmission shop. They can better diagnose it or give them a call.

[stuckey77]

thank you all for the help. When I started up this morning the light was off. and it feels like it's in 2 again.

[Blylock]

i would address this issue. i agree it could be your linkage sticking or not adjusted, or the switch sticking. im not sure if you have a vacuum forced front axle on that year, like i do (CAD), but they are known to fail. first thing i would do is get under there and spray your linkage with PB blaster or some high quality lubricant, and with the truck off, move the shifter from 4h to 2h a bunch of times. next check the level of your xfer case fluid, and condition of it. if its brown or rusty colored, get it replaced. the grind is caused by the xfer case not being fully engaged in any gear when shifting it.

[sharter]

Hey Blylock.
Why do you suggest the performance exhaust and what about the cold air intake? Does all of this save on gas? Where is the cold air intake installed?

Thanks.

[sharter]

Originally Posted by sharter

Hey Blylock.
Why do you suggest the performance exhaust and what about the cold air intake? Does all of this save on gas? Where is the cold air intake installed?

Thanks.

Also I would like to convert to dual exhaust. What about the cat. I only have one. Would I have to install one for the other exhaust as well?

[Blylock]

Originally Posted by sharter

Also I would like to convert to dual exhaust. What about the cat. I only have one. Would I have to install one for the other exhaust as well?

sharter, all i do is tow with my truck. a 3500lb boat to be exact. i converted to the cold air intake and noticed little difference overall. not to mention KN specs a 12hp gain for my model truck and motor after install. i converted my exhaust after cat to a dynomax dual performancve system. i may not have gotten the HP increase i desired, but the throttle response and torque increases amazed me, while towing. and the sound, well it sounds like a truck. for the price of running true duals, in which i would install headers to do it, its not worth the cash. it cost me 120 bucks for the 2 pipes and muffler for the conversion, your looking at 800 minimum for the true duals.

all i am saying from experience, the dual exhaust mod i did was the most noticable towing.