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Eighty Eight Includes the '97-'98 Regency and '96-'99 LSS Models
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  #1  
Old 07-12-2005, 02:36 PM
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1986 start/run probs

Hello. I own 3 H body old's and my older brother (who has posted recently under my username) has one too....

Anyway, i have aquired a 1986 olds for cheap from a friend who really needed the money.... but the car is a definate beater car. When i got it, it ran with a really hard idle and it would not start up until 2 or 3 tries (this is after a starter w/ 20k on it from my parts car is put in). I then replaced the spark plug wires, air filter, and MAF sensor (20k from parts car). It did run very well for a short time w/ a farily smooth idle, but then the car quit starting on its own.

I then had to jump the car from my 1990 olds and it would run fine for about 5 or 10 minutes, then die. Now the engine will only start if i crank it for a few seconds and even then it will die within 10 seconds.

I figured it was the alternator so i found one in a junk yard from a vin c engine (bad idea to mix vin b w/ c?). I haven't had the old alternator checked yet, but i jumped my car again and same problem.

Any other suggestions? I was thinking a bad ignition module/coil packs or perhaps the crank sensor or cam sensor? My car is not giving any trouble codes either, so perhaps the computer is dead?

I'm rather stumped..... Help! Please!
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89 LeSabre T-Type: CAI, STB, F41 Suspension, Moog Ball joints and tie rods, dual-out flowmaster and dual tips, Pointiac CD HU, Delco type 2 Ignition, etc.
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:55 PM
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I just did an icm replacement on a 91 olds 88 because two cylinders weren't firing. It happened to be both cylinders shared the same coil. But I found it just as easy to go to the junkyard and get both pieces as one unit and sawp it out. Fixed the skipping problem. Then we got more stalling and misfiring, we found it out to be a loose positive terminal. If you are going to check the alternator for proper output, you should also charge up the battery and test that also.
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Old 07-26-2005, 01:24 PM
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Re: 1986 start/run probs

How would i test the ICM? I know how to remove it, but other than that i dont know what to do w/ it...
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-Eric
89 LeSabre T-Type: CAI, STB, F41 Suspension, Moog Ball joints and tie rods, dual-out flowmaster and dual tips, Pointiac CD HU, Delco type 2 Ignition, etc.
Basic H/C body info:http://www.3800power.bravehost.com/index.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2318168
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Old 07-27-2005, 02:08 PM
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I don't know if there is a way to test it. Thats why I replaced them as a whole unit. I got a used assembly from a pull it yourself junkyard for $35 for both parts. Considering they had a 30 day guarantee I felt it was worth the risk. Luckily it worked.By the way when I diagnosed the problem, the computer didn't register the problem so I had to diagnose it manually.
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Old 07-28-2005, 10:42 PM
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I did manage to test the module. I just took it to Autozone

Anyway, it passed thier tests. Next, i replaced most of the rubber gaskets on the vacuum lines and the PCV valve and the car seems happier. I have almost year old fuel in it, so i dumped in another couple gallons of fresh fuel and car became more happy and it actually started. However, if i let of the gas the car still stalls after 10 seconds or so. I think i'm going to dump in some more fresh gas and a bottle of Heet or equivalent.

I'm also going to replace the fuel filter....any other suggestions to get the car to be happy again?
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-Eric
89 LeSabre T-Type: CAI, STB, F41 Suspension, Moog Ball joints and tie rods, dual-out flowmaster and dual tips, Pointiac CD HU, Delco type 2 Ignition, etc.
Basic H/C body info:http://www.3800power.bravehost.com/index.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2318168
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