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  #1  
Old 07-12-2005, 02:53 AM
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Eagalicious Eagalicious is offline
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Question about the upgrade paths

I have looked at the upgrade paths of which there a few. I also noticed that they are a bit outdated (1999 and before). My question is, are these still valid or do they need to be updated with new info regarding what has been learned over the last six years.
Just want to make sure before I get too far into it since I am new to the whole mod thing. I am looking to increase my HP and performance(duh) not for racing but just to have that extra punch when needed and also when I forget to bring my ticket book with me Which I will begin to forget as my mods increase
I would like to get to about 400 HP. I may run tracks to check times or just haul ass at night Any input is welcome and thanks in advance.

1997 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD
K&N Fipk
The rest is stock but not for LONG!!
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Old 07-12-2005, 03:50 AM
Whathits14 Whathits14 is offline
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Re: Question about the upgrade paths

hrmm..most of the list is perfectly fine...heres a quick run-down of what you will need for 400whp...

1) Turbo upgrade! Oh man do you have options....if its 400 and no more, then a 20g will do that, but it really depends on how much you want to spend....Either its really gonna be 20g or similar garrett cartridge size wise to hit 400+....I know everyone says the EVO III can hit 400 but probably not for long without risking the turbo at insane boost levels......lot of buzz about the new holstet dsm turbos they start at like 400hp I think and go past 600hp and 50 psi! But we are getting ahead of ourselves....much more we have to do before any of this happens. Haha didn't really think the order of parts thru but oh well

2) Fuel pump. 190 WILL get you 400 hp saw a few dynos at like 409 but after that with a 190 you are SOL. If you go past 400+ get the 255 with a FPR, that will flow more than you will ever need on the street



3) Getting DSMlink will make your life much easier. Get it

4) Injectors 650s will be fine and allow for some improvement in the future.

5) Front mount IC, either buy one or fab one for much less

6)New BOV

7) Exhaust....

8) Dyno time

9) more important than all these: accurate boost gauge

10) Clutch...here we have a problem. The 2g 7 bolt is notorious for crankwalk, and putting a beastly clutch in makes it all the more likely....for a 2g, unless you have someone like clutch specialties do the clutch job (they machine some shit...work with the tolerances) you shouldent get anything bigger than a 2600...just to be safe. The problem is that I don't think a 2100 will hold 400hp but when you get to there you are pushing the limits of the stock internals....so I would, but of course you don't have, revise my goals to 350-370. After that you need to consider built internals, and most people don't do that, they just drop a 1g 6 bolt in there and build that..

But there are many choices...and I am sure I have left some things out, but in general those guides are good, proven although no the chepaest way to increase HP
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Quote:
http://www.totaljdm.com/?id=19334
------------------------------------
'95 Talon Tsi
EVO III GT, supporting mods, not running
Brand new never opened, walbro 190LPH fuel pump for a 2g $65 shipped.
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  #3  
Old 07-12-2005, 08:36 AM
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Re: Question about the upgrade paths

Good information!

Make sure you get yourself a boost gauge 1st! Also, before turning up the boost or beginning your modifications, make sure you give her a good tune-up (including timing belt if needed) and check for boost leaks.
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1997 Spyder GS-T
5-Speed
EVO III 16g, DSMLink, Walboro 190 lph Fuel Pump, FIC 650cc injectors, CoolingMist 150psi Methanol Injection, Greddy EVO 2 Cat Back, 2.5" Extreme DP, 2.5" Extreme Hi-Flow Cat, Injen intake, HyperDrive C1 Street Disk & PP, HyperDrive Lightweight Flywheel, 1g BOV, RRE UICP, Home Depot MBC, AEM UEGO WBO2, Brembo Slotted rotors, Akebono Ceramic Pads
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  #4  
Old 07-13-2005, 01:54 AM
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Re: Re: Question about the upgrade paths

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whathits14
hrmm..most of the list is perfectly fine...heres a quick run-down of what you will need for 400whp...

1) Turbo upgrade! Oh man do you have options....if its 400 and no more, then a 20g will do that, but it really depends on how much you want to spend....Either its really gonna be 20g or similar garrett cartridge size wise to hit 400+....I know everyone says the EVO III can hit 400 but probably not for long without risking the turbo at insane boost levels......lot of buzz about the new holstet dsm turbos they start at like 400hp I think and go past 600hp and 50 psi! But we are getting ahead of ourselves....much more we have to do before any of this happens. Haha didn't really think the order of parts thru but oh well

2) Fuel pump. 190 WILL get you 400 hp saw a few dynos at like 409 but after that with a 190 you are SOL. If you go past 400+ get the 255 with a FPR, that will flow more than you will ever need on the street



3) Getting DSMlink will make your life much easier. Get it

4) Injectors 650s will be fine and allow for some improvement in the future.

5) Front mount IC, either buy one or fab one for much less

6)New BOV

7) Exhaust....

8) Dyno time

9) more important than all these: accurate boost gauge

10) Clutch...here we have a problem. The 2g 7 bolt is notorious for crankwalk, and putting a beastly clutch in makes it all the more likely....for a 2g, unless you have someone like clutch specialties do the clutch job (they machine some shit...work with the tolerances) you shouldent get anything bigger than a 2600...just to be safe. The problem is that I don't think a 2100 will hold 400hp but when you get to there you are pushing the limits of the stock internals....so I would, but of course you don't have, revise my goals to 350-370. After that you need to consider built internals, and most people don't do that, they just drop a 1g 6 bolt in there and build that..

But there are many choices...and I am sure I have left some things out, but in general those guides are good, proven although no the chepaest way to increase HP
Nice list, but I would put it in a little different order, unless ofcourse your going to do EVERYTHING at once:

1. Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, Timing Belt, etc.
2. Boost Guage
3. New BOV (1g would be fine for now)
4. DSMLink
5. Fuel Pump (Need it before a huge turbo like a 20g, unless your gonna run rediculously low boost)
6. Injectors (I would go a little bigger than 650's, maybe ~720's)
7. Turbo
8. 3" Exhaust
9. FMIC
10. Clutch
11. Dyno that baby!
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  #5  
Old 07-13-2005, 02:11 AM
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I'm going to follow one of these paths (depending on whether I get a 1g or a 2g)...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/tech.php
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Build on hold until I get a good paying job, either in school or once I get out. At that time a full tear down and complete rebuild should be in order.

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  #6  
Old 07-13-2005, 09:32 PM
Whathits14 Whathits14 is offline
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Re: Re: Re: Question about the upgrade paths

Quote:
Originally Posted by l_eclipse_l
Nice list, but I would put it in a little different order, unless ofcourse your going to do EVERYTHING at once:

1. Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, Timing Belt, etc.
2. Boost Guage
3. New BOV (1g would be fine for now)
4. DSMLink
5. Fuel Pump (Need it before a huge turbo like a 20g, unless your gonna run rediculously low boost)
6. Injectors (I would go a little bigger than 650's, maybe ~720's)
7. Turbo
8. 3" Exhaust
9. FMIC
10. Clutch
11. Dyno that baby!


???? why would you do the turbo BEFORE any of the the important supporting mods?? Definitly get exhaust before you put a new turbo on...do the BOV with the FMIC unless you want to pay for a new UICP twice...and dsmlink with a boost gauge and BOV = almost worthless. You don't need dsmlink until you actually start tuning it. I would however (I didn't do this and trust me it sucks holding off the boost) get all your fuel mods at the same time and DSMLINK then too, so you can start tuning and bring up the boost. With dsmlink, you can really get any size injector you want and adjust it for no deadtime and no funky idle, so I say go for 720 they are good for more than 400 hp if you decide later to upgrade, and you won't have any problems with them now. I said I probably forgot something and I did!
C-A-M-S!!! With the power you are looking to get, they would be a great idea. I am scared of webcams because they have so many bad batches of regrinds...not sure if they solved that problem, but you can get some beastly cams either hks 272's or FP 3's(even bigger ) But you made a good point about maintaning your engine before doing anything to it...make sure its in good shape. Oh, and the mod steps on dsmtuners are good, but for stage 1, new mani is not nessecary at all....porting will be fine, flows good no need to replace unless you are going with a different footprint on your turbo...usually biiig turbos
__________________
Need a GOOD 6-bolt engine?
Quote:
http://www.totaljdm.com/?id=19334
------------------------------------
'95 Talon Tsi
EVO III GT, supporting mods, not running
Brand new never opened, walbro 190LPH fuel pump for a 2g $65 shipped.
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2005, 04:52 PM
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Eagalicious Eagalicious is offline
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I didnt mention it in my orignal post but I am have the 60k done to her befeore I even start the mods. I only have 72k on her. I have replaced the timing belt already at 58 or 59k. I am doing brakes and rotors as well. Just wanted make sure before I begin
Thank you all for your input. I really do appreciate it very much!

1997 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD
K&N FIPK
The rest is stock but not for LONG!!
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