94 SSE, Intermitent crank no start.. HELP

[PCTEK]

First off, BIG THANKS to Randman1 for the photo showing the location of the VATS module! The GM book just gave a general location...

My problem. I have an intermittant crank/no start on my 94 Bonneville SSE. After the car has sat for 5+ hours, I turn the key to the start position, the motor cranks, i let the key go from the 'start' to the 'run' position and the motor stops cranking. I repeat this start attempt 3-5 times and the engine starts. Subsequent starts are fine... that is until the car sits off for a few hours.

Reading the trouble codes, I always get the same 2: 1629: Passkey II fuel enable circuit and 1626: Passkey II signal out of range. So far, i have replaced the VATS module, the ignition key cylinder and the key itself. I have measured fuel coming from the pump and it's fine. Visual inspection of the wires from the VATS module to the PCM and wires into the PCM appear in good condition.

Does anyone have additional idea's on what could be causing this problem? Thank you all

[PCTEK]

Do I have the experts stumped .... ?

[bslewis]

Originally Posted by PCTEK

First off, BIG THANKS to Randman1 for the photo showing the location of the VATS module! The GM book just gave a general location...

My problem. I have an intermittant crank/no start on my 94 Bonneville SSE. After the car has sat for 5+ hours, I turn the key to the start position, the motor cranks, i let the key go from the 'start' to the 'run' position and the motor stops cranking. I repeat this start attempt 3-5 times and the engine starts. Subsequent starts are fine... that is until the car sits off for a few hours.

Reading the trouble codes, I always get the same 2: 1629: Passkey II fuel enable circuit and 1626: Passkey II signal out of range. So far, i have replaced the VATS module, the ignition key cylinder and the key itself. I have measured fuel coming from the pump and it's fine. Visual inspection of the wires from the VATS module to the PCM and wires into the PCM appear in good condition.

Does anyone have additional idea's on what could be causing this problem? Thank you all

There is a way to bypass the vats altogether. It involves simply using an ohm meter and finding the resistence of your key's pellet(the small metal piece surrounded by black plastic). Then pull the kick plate beneath your steering column. There you will find a small, soft insulated(ORANGE ONLY) wire containing two smaller(WHITE) wires. After disconnecting the battery ground, cut this wire. Then after building a short loop with the equal amount of resistors soldered together and a pigtail on each end,then connect each end to the two wires running away from the ignition lock leading under the dash and to the vats module. The only caution is DO NOT mess with any other wiring PERIOD
I.e. Crimp connector-short wire-resistor-resistor-(= to your key etc.) -short wire-crimp connector.
This will stop your problem and would have saved you much money and effort had you known before replacing all those parts. The only down side is no more vats. Big deal eh?

[rilli40]

bslewis did you ever get this fixed mine does it and its a real pain i was wonering if you had the answer ?
Rilli40