1995 GC Laredo overheating

dcadiman · #1 07-09-2005, 11:01 PM

I just bought a 1995 Laredo and on the drive home it overheated. I stopped and collant was bubbling out of the overflow tank. I noticed that the tank had a large crack in it, so I replaced it with a universal one temporarily. That did slow the overheating, but did not cure it. I plan to replace the tank with one from the factory, but I want to know if there is anything else I should look at. Also, I plan on flushing the system and replacing the thermostat as recommended in previous posts.

If the above remedies do not cure the issue, what is recommended by the gurus of this forum. Any help is appreciated. I like the truck and am willing to invest some $$$ and elbow grease to get it right.

dksob81 · #2 07-09-2005, 11:16 PM

If replacing the T-Stat and flushing the system doesn't do the trick, have the radiator Flow tested, there could be blockage in the radiator. Could be broken fins on the water pump, not flowing enough coolant to cool the engine.

rock78230 · #3 07-10-2005, 03:24 AM

Since your problem is one of overheating I would remove the t-stat until it is solved. With the T-stat removed I would then remove the radiator hose (the hose connecting the radiator to the T-stat). Then place your water hose in the hole to the radiator and run the engine and watch the water flowing out of the hose from the t-stat opening until the water is clear. (Be sure to run the heater full blast to flush the heater core as well).

Once the system is flushed clean I would add one of those cooling system cleaning fluids to the radiator, fill the radiator with water, reattach the radiator hose and run the engine again with the heater on for about 20 minutes (follow instructions on fluid). When finished remove the hose again and place the waterhose in the radiator and run the engine again until the water from the hose is clear. When clear remove the water hose and run engine just long enough for the waterto drain out of the engine. (should only take seconds). Then open the radiator plug and drain the rest of the water from the radiator.

Once all of the water is drained out then reattach the hose close the radiator plug and add about 70% coolant to water (be sure to use distilled water in the radiator and not water from the waterhose). Water from your hose will most likely be quicker or heat up. Test drive the car. If it is better but still not at or below 210 then you may want to check the radiator cap, you can also add redline water wetter to lower the temperature some. But if it is still overheating then it is time to check the radiator as someone stated earlier. G/L

dksob81 · #4 07-10-2005, 08:43 AM

Read this (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=337449) It is a great and easy way I came up with for flushing the system and flushing/reverse flushing the heater core.

NOTE: when flushing the engine after using the chemical flush, remove the bolts in the engine block to drain the water/chemical flush while running water thru the radiator.

dcadiman · #5 07-11-2005, 06:24 PM

Thanks guys. Today I replaced the t-stat and it appears that there was nothing there. Now I have a 195 degree t-stat. I also flushed the system and the temperature is better, but it still creeps up to 210. I was running late for work so I was not able to let it run for more that 20-30 minutes (with A/C running). I have not tried the reverse flush since I do not have access to a hose or compressed air. Next step, i guess is to replace the water pump. Any more suggestions before I take the leap?

The_Penguin · #6 07-11-2005, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcadiman

I have not tried the reverse flush since I do not have access to a hose or compressed air. Next step, i guess is to replace the water pump. Any more suggestions before I take the leap?

I have my doubts that the water pump is the issue, they generally work until they spring a leak. I'd concentrate on the rad next. Also, when it's up to temp, is the fan moving air? I think the normal failure mode for the viscous fan is stuck on all the time, but it's worth a look.

I once bought a used Lincoln MkVII that came from California. Apparently the guy was running plain old tap water

and the rad was almost totally clogged.

fredjacksonsan · #7 07-12-2005, 11:07 AM

Even a small reduction in radiator flow can cause overheating. I'd check there.

Godzilla.vs.Jeep · #8 07-13-2005, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcadiman

Thanks guys. Today I replaced the t-stat and it appears that there was nothing there. Now I have a 195 degree t-stat. I also flushed the system and the temperature is better, but it still creeps up to 210. I was running late for work so I was not able to let it run for more that 20-30 minutes (with A/C running). I have not tried the reverse flush since I do not have access to a hose or compressed air. Next step, i guess is to replace the water pump. Any more suggestions before I take the leap?

So does the coolant still boil over?

210 isn't that unusual on a hot day with the A/C running...

As mentioned above, the water pump will leak at the weep holes when it starts to fail, so if it isn't leaking (you'll know) I would think that isn't your problem.

dcadiman · #9 07-13-2005, 08:24 PM

I did not have a chance to test it today, but on my limited run the other day it did not boil over. Also, I replaced the coolant tank and the sensor today. I will run the car tomorrow for an hour or so and see what happens. Just to verify, if the water pump is not leaking, then it is not the issue, right? If that is the case, then I will return the one I bought and fork over the additional $20.00 for the fan clutch. I will also flush it again before I run it, just to make sure that there are no clogs.

tdenkler · #10 07-16-2005, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcadiman

I did not have a chance to test it today, but on my limited run the other day it did not boil over. Also, I replaced the coolant tank and the sensor today. I will run the car tomorrow for an hour or so and see what happens. Just to verify, if the water pump is not leaking, then it is not the issue, right? If that is the case, then I will return the one I bought and fork over the additional $20.00 for the fan clutch. I will also flush it again before I run it, just to make sure that there are no clogs.

Tried everything on mine, wht fixed it was "heavy duty" max clutch fan from Autojunk(Autozone)
Standard one just not good enough. These are designed to run hot(195 t-stat) 210 is normal when hot with a/c etc running. Put in neutral, run @1500 rpm and see temp drop. Standard clutch fan won't drop temp.

dcadiman · #11 07-18-2005, 09:15 PM

Ok, heres the deal. I skipped the water pump and installed the fan clutch. The coolant no longer boils over, which is solid progress. The temp stays below 210 while driving, but still creeps up toward the danger zone when idling. Is thsi normal, or do I still have a flow problem. I am about ready to take it to the Jeep dealer for a full flush. I think it might be worth the expense. Any thoughts?

fredjacksonsan · #12 07-19-2005, 10:35 AM

I still think a new radiator is in order.

dcadiman · #13 07-19-2005, 06:52 PM

Well the verdict is in.....radiatiator is faulty. Everyone that guessed that is correct. Now my question is, where can I pick one up cheap in south florida? I have seen prices in excess of $211.00. Advance Auto had the lowest price of $166.00. Any suggestions?

JDPascal · #14 07-19-2005, 07:11 PM

Look around and see if you are getting a 2 row or a 3 row rad.

See if there is a 3 row available and what the difference in price would be. Likely worth it for and extra $50 or $75. - specially if your going to keep it for awhile.....

JD

JDPascal · #15 07-19-2005, 08:32 PM

Check in here with teemsta

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=433202

sounds like a reasonable deal from here.......

JD

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD