97 Trans Sport Head Removal ! Need Help !

[Bob1942]

I just bought a 97 Transport with the 3.4 L engine ...This is the first time I have worked on one ... I have done lots of work on the 5.7 L engines ...I knew the Trans Sport engine needed work when I bought it ... A compression test showed NO compression on #4 cylinder ...Right in front ! OH BOY EASY I THOUGHT ! Both valves on that cylinder are free so it is not a stuck valve... I figure burned valve or bad valve seat ...I already removed the passenger side strut mount on the engine that was a real stinker to get off because the Haines manual does not mention that two of the air conditioner compressor bolts go through this mount and you must remove them Also to get it off ! The Haines manual shows only two bolts ! The other two are hidden down there horizontal in the air conditioner compressor top !

I have some questions I could sure use some help with ...

#1....... What do I need to remove to get the front (left head off )

#2....... Should I use the old head bolts again ? I worked on a lot of Escorts and they say NEVER use the old bolts However My Haines manual on the Trans Sport does not say ?

#3 ....... Any suggestions about things I can re-use ? Or that I should replace while I have this all Apart ?


THANK YOU ! BOB IN CASSOPOLIS MICHIGAN

[cdru]

#1 - You will have to take the intake manifold off. There are numerous threads in this and sister vehicle forums on what this takes. You would also be very foolish not to do the rear one as well. The cost isn't that much more and the rear head around cylinder 1 has a tendency to leak as well. When I did my 98 Trans Sport, the Haynes manual was pretty accurate for what needed to come off so follow that. You will probably want to have the heads resurfaced as well as cleaned up/degreased/devarnished in addition to fixing the compression issue.

#2 - You can reuse the head bolts. They are TTY but not stretch bolts. You can buy the head set at the dealer for $100 if you want, but isn't necessary. The intake manifold bolts are recommended as they were "redesigned", but most people will probably tell you that thy just have a new lock-tite preapplied to them.

#3 - You are going to need new head gaskets and probably want to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. For the heads that is about it other then studs/nuts/bolts that you might break off. The intake manifold will be a new upper and lower gasket set, bypass pipe o-ring, oil pump drive shaft o-ring, coolant pipe o-ring (attaches to t-stat housing), t-stat, plugs. Most of this stuff isn't "necessary" to be replaced, but they cost relatively little for what is required to replace them if they go bad. New gaskets are absolutely required though as they have been redesigned. Other things that you may want to get new is plug wires, temp sensor, and O2 sensor. These all cost a little more and aren't that hard to replace, but they are very accessible when you have the engine tore down. Everything else I think you can reuse. You can also replace your heater hoses (or at least the clamps) while you have easy access to them. If you ever have to replace a hose with the engine assembled, you will be thankful.

Check this thread from when I did my heads for some tips regarding the heads as well as the intake manifold.

[proteks]

I was under the impression that they were TTY bolts and should not be reused. The extra 90 degrees after torquing streches the bolt.

[cdru]

Originally Posted by proteks

I was under the impression that they were TTY bolts and should not be reused. The extra 90 degrees after torquing streches the bolt.

I was under the same impression, but apparently not. I beleive they are technically just angle torqued and not truly TTY. This page talks about the differences. While it's actually regarding Volvos, the same concept applies for our vehicles. The key concept is whether or not our bolts actually yield or strech beyond the point of elastisity when tightened. All bolts strech some by designed. The key point is how much they stretch before they return back to their normal size. My Haynes manual nor my shop manual mention nothing of replaceing or not reusing the bolts.

If all else fails, follow what the shops do. Both of the largest GM dealerships in my town of 300k don't even regularly stock them and they said they do heads on the 3400 on a near daily basis. If they indeed do them on a daily basis which I have no doubt they do, don't you think that they would stock them like they would intake gaskets and it's bolts?

When I did mine, I opted not to sped the extra $125+ for a new bolt set as I couldn't find any compelling evidence in any of my manuals or shops that I called that said you have to. I chose to ignore the lady at one parts counter that said "Well I think you might have to but I would have to talk to someone who knows to tell you for sure". I reused my old ones and after 5000 miles and 3 or 4 months, no problems yet knock on wood.

[Bob1942]

THANK YOU SO MUCH ! for the information CDRU and everyone...I Have already decided to do both heads and to go ahead and re-use the bolts ... I will know when I tighten them if they stretch you can feel it on the ones that do ...I just bought a new gasket set at the ZONE and am still having STICKER SHOCK ! 115 bucks ! WOW ! I broke off one exhaust manifold bolt ...I think it was weak because I was using a 1/4 inch ratchet and hardly had any pressure on it ... I found that PB-BLASTER works great to get those Manifold bolts out I wiggle the bolt back and forth a tiny bit with my 1/4 ratchet then squirt on some BLASTER then work it back and forth some more to loosen it and out it comes ! no problem great stuff ! I will get back on here when the job is done and let all of you know how it comes out ...Thanks Again ! ...SLOW AND EASY !!! Bob in Cassopolis MICHIGAN ...

[cdru]

Originally Posted by Bob1942

THANK YOU SO MUCH ! for the information CDRU and everyone...I Have already decided to do both heads and to go ahead and re-use the bolts ... I will know when I tighten them if they stretch you can feel it on the ones that do ...I just bought a new gasket set at the ZONE and am still having STICKER SHOCK ! 115 bucks !

Run, don't walk back to the Zone and return it. You are going to want to get OEM parts for this. Aftermarket parts many people have found out will give you problems. I don't know specifically about the head gaskets, but the intake gaskets have been redesigned several times to prevent the intake manifold coolant leak. I, like you, went the cheaper aftermarket route for the gaskets the first time my intake was leaking. I ended up redoing it less then 6 months later as the leak returned. Trust me, you don't want to have to take the intake manifold off more times then you half to. I want to say the head gaskets were in the neighborhood of $30 each, the exhaust manifold gaskets $15 each, and the intake set around $60. The EGR and valve cover gaskets are the only other gaskets that I can think of. The valve cover gaskets can be easily reused if they are in good condition still (put a little dab of RTV in the notch where the manifold meets the heads...you'll see where). The EGR gaskets can be gotten aftermarket for a few bucks without issue.

[Bob1942]

Originally Posted by cdru

Run, don't walk back to the Zone and return it. You are going to want to get OEM parts for this. Aftermarket parts many people have found out will give you problems. I don't know specifically about the head gaskets, but the intake gaskets have been redesigned several times to prevent the intake manifold coolant leak. I, like you, went the cheaper aftermarket route for the gaskets the first time my intake was leaking. I ended up redoing it less then 6 months later as the leak returned. Trust me, you don't want to have to take the intake manifold off more times then you half to. I want to say the head gaskets were in the neighborhood of $30 each, the exhaust manifold gaskets $15 each, and the intake set around $60. The EGR and valve cover gaskets are the only other gaskets that I can think of. The valve cover gaskets can be easily reused if they are in good condition still (put a little dab of RTV in the notch where the manifold meets the heads...you'll see where). The EGR gaskets can be gotten aftermarket for a few bucks without issue.

THANKS AGAIN CDRU I Have not opened the box with the Gaskets so I will take them BACK ! ASAP .... I am also going to get a Rebuilt Alternator to put in there ...On the 97 the alternator is a real nasty one to change and I can do it easy now ...The original alternator has a lot of brush wear and some of the insulating varnish is flaking off of the windings I took the cover off and looked ... It still works but I am sure it would go out soon ,,, CASSOPOLIS MICHIGAN BOB

[Bob1942]

THANKS AGAIN CDRU ...I have the box of gaskets un-opened sitting on the work bench I will return them ASAP to The "ZONE" and get the OEM ones from GM ... I am going to replace the alternator, Oxy sensor and temp sensor too while I am in there working on it ...On the 97 Trans Sport it is a big (size) alternator and you can't get it out without lowering the engine or removing all the stuff on top of the engine ...The old alternator I have has worn brushes and I see varnish insulation flaking off of the windings so it is about to go belly - up too ! ... I sure like this forum ! Thanks Again ! CDRU ......Cassopolis Michigan BOB

[Bob1942]

Update ... I have the engine heads off now only broke one exhaust stud and I was able to get it out ok ...Hardest part was getting the exhaust studs out on the bottom of the back manifold I had to use three 3/8 ratchet extensions to get to them from underneath ...I love that PB Blaster penetrant ! ...I am getting all new valves to install ...And I took back the gaskets to the "Zone" and bought a set from GM parts they assured me they were the latest version of the gaskets ... I found that the cylinders in the engine are like new ! No cylinder ridge at all AND the engine block has yellow paint pen numbers on it and a name I can not read I also found that many of the wiring harness clips behind the engine are not attached to the wiring ! So I think someone worked in there and forgot to attach them so I suspect this could be a low milage junk yard engine someone has installed in this van . I looked for the vin number on it and could not find one . Bob in Michigan

[cdru]

Originally Posted by Bob1942

Hardest part was getting the exhaust studs out on the bottom of the back manifold I had to use three 3/8 ratchet extensions to get to them from underneath .

You went the hard way. It's a lot easier to just leave the rear manifold on and remove it and the head together. It's a piece of cake to do it that way then try to reach em with the head on the engine. The crossover pipe also can be left on or taken off before the rear head comes off. When reassembling, you can get the rear all assembled on the bench then just toss it on the block. Spark plugs can also be done easily on the bench as well, just be sure to not bump the electrodes and change the gap.

[Bob1942]

Update on the trans Sport ... I did not like the looks of the valves they had tiny pits in them so I ordered all new ones and hand lapped them in ...Two had bad seats and I had those seats re-ground at an auto machine shop and I had the machinist inspect them ... The heads are back together now and I am ready to reassemble the engine ...EXCEPT now I am waiting for an EGR pipe gasket and the Spark Plugs ... Bob in Michigan

[Bob1942]

Update on the Trans Sport 3.4 L ... I took the exhaust pipe off and the crossover at the advice of CDRU and assembled the rear head , manifold and shields on the bench then I installed it as an assembly , that really was a lot easier !... That CDRU sure Knows his stuff ! Those shields are sharp I cut my thumb on one ...I got the latest improved GM gasket set ... They have you torque the CENTER bolts first on the lower intake manifold to 10 F.P. ...Per the instruction sheet with the new GM gaskets... I applied Blue (removable ) loktite to the bolts... during assembly ...
Now I am down to installing the bolt on accessories , Fuel injectors and upper intake manifold ... As with any big job I am worrying about the possibility that I forgot something or did not tighten something properly ... I am wondering what a job like this would cost if I had it done at a Auto dealership ? Take the engine heads off and do a complete valve job with all new valves ? Anyone know ? I am just curious BOB in Michigan

[Bob1942]

UPDATE ! I GOT THE TRANS SPORT ALL BACK TOGETHER ! ,
CHANGED THE OIL AND HAVE ONLY TO FILL THE COOLING SYSTEM BEFORE I CROSS MY FINGERS AND TURN THE KEY ...
The wife suggested I let it sit until tomorrow and we should go out to dinner ...hey I'm not going to argue ! I have to eat too ! BOB

[Bob1942]

Final Update on Transport ... After a few prayers (GOD IS GOOD ) I turned the key and started the transport ! IT RUNS ! IT IS VERY SMOOTH at idle now ... I ran it for about 1/2 hour the Coolant system came up to pressure nicely ...I still have a "check engine light " that is on all the time Perhaps I forgot to plug something in ? ...I don't have a code reader ..YET but I will soon to check that trouble code out ... Maybe someone out there can tell me about the "thing " they forget to connect or whatever is most likely to cause the "check engine " light to be on ? Anyway THANK YOU CDRU and everyone for your suggestions ,information and support ... BOB

[cdru]

If you had a check engine light on before, it will still be on. The codes don't erase. Get it checked out, erase it, then see if it comes back. The common sensors that I think get "lost" in the reassembly are the O2, MAP (? the one that's attached to the bracket that fits under the rear ignition module bracket studs), or a 2-wire sensor that runs down to the transmission somewhere.

Pull the code and see.