1999 S-10 Problems

[CELDesign]

I have a 1999 S-10 4WD Ext. Cab P/U that I have had since it was new. I have the following problems and I would like to know how to solve them without spending a fortune. It has 119000 miles, electronic 4spd. automatic transmission, and the 4.3L "X" code engine.

Transmission: fourth gear no longer works and second gear does not shift until it hits high RPM's. Do I need to have it rebuilt, replaced, or could it be the transmission sensors?

Fuel: when I put fuel in the truck the pump clicks constantly, only allowing me to put a gallon or two of gas in it at a time. If I try to keep putting gas in it the fuel comes back out of the filler tube, it seems as if there is pressure inside of the tank. What could be causing this problem?

Fuel Gauge: It no longer works, it looks as if the tank is full all the time so I have to keep track of the mileage to know when to try to refuel (RE: Previous Question). Why and how do I fix this?

[OverBoardProject]

Well the fuel gauge is probably the sending unit in the tank, which means that you'll probably have to pull the box off or drop the fuel tank to fix it.
But it's probably a good time to fix it since the vent in the gas tank is probably blocked. (a hose about 5/8" running from the tank to the filler neck) They don't usually get plugged but it can happen

I only know how to install an auto trany and how to drive them so I can't help you there. Good luck

[BlazerLT]

tranny fluid and filter change are in order.

[CELDesign]

You guys rock!!! The problems don;t seem as bad as I thought in the beginning, glad I joined this site and I will update on the problems as I fix them.

CELDEsign

[CELDesign]

I am trying to get the truck back on the road...have just a few questions after searching the S-10 forum...

1. Heater Core: there is a LEFT and RIGHT hose in the engine compartment, which is the INLET / OUTLET?
I removed the hoses a couple of weeks ago w/o labeling them (dumb me), and I just want to make sure that I have them both connected properly. Currently I have the LEFT connected to the ENGINE and the RIGHT to the WATER PUMP...is this right?

2. Does anyone know where I can get step-by-step directions on how to remove my truck bed to access the gas tank?
From my research this is better than accessing the tank from under the truck. I am looking for a diagram, illustration, or detailed instructions as to what I need to remove / unhook. I need access to the tank so I can replace the fuel gauge sending unit and to check the filler tube / vent hose as to why my truck won't take any gas without spitting it back up the filler neck...

Any help or information on these two questions will be greatly appreciated...

Thx,

CELDesign

[garednck]

It doesn't really matter way you hook up the heater hose's to the heater core, so your fine here.

You can pick up a repair manual at your local parts house that will cover removing the bed, however it is easier to just drain the fuel from tank and lower the fuel tank to change the sending unit.

[OverBoardProject]

I just took a quick look into a Haynes manual, and they don't show how to remove the box (in the index anyways)

It's not that hard. There are from 4 to 8 bolts on the bottom. Right beside or through the frame. Spray these with penetrating oil and let them soak for at least an hour.
+ 1 wire conection.
+ the filler tube, which will be the hardest part.

Don't do this job with a full tank, or some of the fuel might spill out.

You'll want 1 to 3 good friends to help you while lifting the box off, so you may need a few beer on hand to spark their intrest. 1 friend is enough, but 3 makes it really easy to get high enough.

[CELDesign]

Update w/Question...Transmission & Fueling

Installed all new belts, hoses, water pump, & fuel filter with much success...have not put it into the shop just yet ($$$ flow) to have the transmission flushed and filter replaced...for you all that have the 4L60E electronic automatic transmission there is a known problem with the 2-4 shift servo (OEM #10478131) that GM is too much of a pus to recall...this little bugger keeps you from shifting into overdrive and now it slips to high RPM's to shift into 3rd...so if I was informed correctly this little $30 piece and 1.3 hours of time should remedy this problem (along with a flush & filter).

*I have a question for that I am still perplexed about...when I am fueling my truck it does not want to take any fuel...the pump clicks to a stop...then I slowly fuel the truck and it spits fuel out of the filler tube...I replaced this dam thing because the breather hose (which is connected to the filler tube) was believed to be the problem, it still spits fuel out...the truck runs great other than the fact that it spits fuel out after 2 gallons or so...could this be another filter in the system besides the fuel filter. When the truck is running it is obvious that the fuel pump/system is working fine.

[whitetrash982]

try checking the filler neck tube itself , pull it off completely to make sure there isnt something blocked inside of it , and make sure that nothing is pinching it as well. the bed isnt very hard to get off at all , i myself have a 99 ex cab , theres 2 bolts under each corner , a wireing harness for the tail lights that just need to be un plugged , and 3 torx bolts holding the filler neck to the bed , and then on the pump assy itself , theres a vent tube\hose , the pressure line , the return line , and an electrical connection , and a really big internal snap ring holding the pump in . no biddie , me and one friend , albeit we had a bit of trouble with the bed by ourselves , but had it done in about an hour , maybe a bit more , no big deal

[CELDesign]

Thx for the info. about removing the bed...I have already replaced the filler neck tube, vent hose (connected to filler neck), & the connecting fuel hoses and to no avail it still is spitting fuel...thinking it might be the charcoal filter assembly that is locatd behind the fuel tank, it is supposed to regulate the pressure in the tank area from what I understand...GM and all others request that you have the dealer take care of this...Haynes & Chilton's say this too...hoping people like you can give me some insight as to what I am dealing with here...major or minor repairs...like I said the truck runs great, she just being a bitty and not even taking 93 octane fuel...???

[movin2stereo]

In case you still need this info about removing the bed.I started off with taking off the bumper,this way you don't have to worry about bumping the bed into the bumper or cab.Start by taking off the lincense plate,pry up the plastic step cover(it will pop off,be careful not to break it),you can now see 2 18mm nuts(remove these).Look under the bumper there you will see more 18mm nuts,don't forget to twist out the lincense plate bulbs.Bumper is now off.You now have 8 15mm bolts to take out from the underneath of the bed.There are 2 10mm bolts you need to take out at the rear of the frame(ground wires).While your here unplug the wire harness that goes to your taillights.On to the filler neck.There 3 torx screws that need removed.Neck is free now.If weight is an issue,take the tailgate off(takes some of the burden off).Pick it up!

[CELDesign]

Well, after a long wait I have my truck back ($)...
Transmission Problems (4L60E Automatic)
first of all anyone on this site that suggests that 4L60E automatic transmission shift problems are due to the shift solenoids is WRONG! The problem with these transmissions is the clutches and require a rebuild in order to work properly again. In all the rebuild cost me $1600.00 with a 12mo/12k warranty and she shifts like the day she was delivered to me from the Chev. dealer.
*Suggestion: Have your original tranny rebuilt, DO NOT exchange transmissions, this way you have new components and it matches your vehicle just like it came off the factory floor. My mechanics are honest ASE $40 an hour dudes who priced a replacement for me and after the task it would have cost me $2300.00 ($700 difference)

Fuel System (Gauge not working, etc.)
On the '99 and newer models the fuel gauge sending unit and the fuel pump are one unit (not seperate) mounted inside of the tank, so if you want your fuel gauge back again you will be replacing the entire fuel pump ($235 + labor).

NEW PROBLEM
After having the tires balanced and rotated + alignment my truck has created a hop / bounce when I drive on the highway and/or go over bumps (I can see my headlights bouncing)...could this be my ball joints?