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Old 07-07-2005, 04:58 PM
muddler muddler is offline
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Oil Pan Leak repair and brake lines

I am trying to repair a leak in my oil pan on my '94 Crown Vic using fiberglass. I want to avoid the work of pulling the engine to replace the pan. I'm afraid the fiberglass may be porous and not hold the leaking oil. Has anybody tried this or another method to patch a leak? I've also been told that the brake lines and fuel lines are likely getting close to rusting through if the pan has rusted. Anyone have experience with this problem already?
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:20 PM
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Re: Oil Pan Leak repair and brake lines

You can remove the oil pan without pulling motor. You need to remove the wiper motor housing, remove motor mount bolts, jack engine up high enough to get a 2x4 in there with the wide side between block and mount. Remove oil pan bolts and fish oil pan out of car. About the only way to repair a pan is to weld or replace. Welding is dangerous, cause the oil vapors can catch fire. We have had a lot of brake lines rust through. Most of the time it has ruptured while the vehicle has been stopped. Real lucky. It is not an easy job to replace, but both jobs are doable if you have the tools, time and patience. Good luck.

Just thought of something that may work. If you can get it clean enough, JB Weld may work.
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Old 07-08-2005, 08:14 AM
jimmytroanoke jimmytroanoke is offline
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Re: Oil Pan Leak repair and brake lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by muddler
I am trying to repair a leak in my oil pan on my '94 Crown Vic using fiberglass. I want to avoid the work of pulling the engine to replace the pan. I'm afraid the fiberglass may be porous and not hold the leaking oil. Has anybody tried this or another method to patch a leak? I've also been told that the brake lines and fuel lines are likely getting close to rusting through if the pan has rusted. Anyone have experience with this problem already?
I would be leery about using fiberglass or any other plastic type product without knowing its properties with respect to HOT oil resistance and heat cycling. The thermal expansion/contraction properties are different for the fiberglas and the metal that it is attached. to. Probably not a problem for body repair, but your fenders don't go constantly from ambient to 300 degrees in a matter of minutes several times per day. I think it would tend to stress fail over a period of time. Not to mention how acidic oil can get between changes. The effects of acids are greatly enhanced by heat. Replace the pan.... If you are counting on this car to get you to work, etc. one days lost wages plus the towing bill will more than offset the savings by patching this component. Not to mention the cost of an engine if you lose your oil in heavy traffic and can't get off the road immediately. Do a close ene to end inspection on your brake and fuel lines. A light coat of surface rust is OK but any deep pits and flaking rust probably means it is time to address it. Always cheaper to address this at a time of your choice before it fails than whenever it decides to fail at usually the most inopportune moment!
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Old 07-08-2005, 05:13 PM
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to fix the oil leak simply use some black silicone or RTV i used it on my 92 to fix an oil pan leak until i get the money to replace it and the rtv works great just clean the pan of loose rust put on a rubber glove and start spreading it around the area that leaks hope this helps good luck
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