my cars sick

red92rs · #1 06-27-2005, 05:02 PM

has recently having trouble staying cranked once it has sat for a while after being warmed up, it starts and idles then starts to try dying then picks up, and keeps doing this for a while until i rev it up several times to get it goin, or else it will die. runs fine when engine is cool, its only once its hot, and has sat for 30 min or more. it has new fuel filter, and k&n air filter, less then 2000 miles on those 2. new pcv valve. does this sound like i just need a tune up/ new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, maybe a clogged cat. or icm?
the former owner said he put new plugs in before he sold it to me, about year ago. it also has new o2 sensor, and bigger exhaust 3" from cats to muffler & (2)2.5 inch 1 from flowmaster muffler 80 series. sounds 100% better then before, last owner just had the mufler on stock exhaust. its still stock cat. new egr valve.
if it sounds like the cat, what would be a good aftermarkey highflow, i know the magnaflow cats are arond 75-100+ depending on size & what not, which magna flow would i need to stay emmisions legal, dont know if i need it to be the one with air tap or not. but would like to keep it legal, with the way country going with pollution controls i would like to keep it legal.
if it could be needing tune-up, are those bosch platnum2 plugs any good, or should i stick with the regular plugs.. what type & brand of wires are good but still affordable, short on the $$.

Rally Sport · #2 06-27-2005, 05:31 PM

Sounds like your IAC (idle air control) which causes it to die

red92rs · #3 06-28-2005, 02:06 AM

where is the iac located at, and i will change that out, its the cheaper fix of the above

wrightz28 · #4 06-28-2005, 08:52 AM

IS the SES light on? If so, probably would be a big help, let it tell you what ailes it.

red92rs · #5 06-28-2005, 09:09 AM

no ses light, only after it dies will that cut on, but didnt think that would be a code

wrightz28 · #6 06-28-2005, 09:11 AM

Woudn't hurt to check, some codes do not trigger the ses light to come on. So you may have soft code identifiers.

Rally Sport · #7 06-28-2005, 09:16 AM

Oh also forgot to mention it sounds like its more your Ignition Control Module which is under the distributor cap, so i'd check that out, you can take it to autozone or O'rielly and they'll test it for free to see if it's working or not.

red92rs · #8 06-28-2005, 12:53 PM

there are no codes stored, went to advance auto and had it scanned

Rally Sport · #9 06-28-2005, 12:55 PM

Well go check out your ICM before you go into the IAC because its cheaper.

red92rs · #10 07-01-2005, 09:10 PM

is the icm what the coil connects to under the cap, just getting to fixin it and wanted to know where exactly it was so it hopefully wouldnt take as long

ct91rs · #11 07-02-2005, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red92rs

is the icm what the coil connects to under the cap, just getting to fixin it and wanted to know where exactly it was so it hopefully wouldnt take as long

it looks like this:

http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/ew8hei.gif

and yes, the wires from the coil go to it. there are two small bolts on either side that you must remove

red92rs · #12 07-02-2005, 04:10 PM

took the icm to advanced, and it tested fine, went ahead and got cap & rotor, wired, & plugs, since wires cap & rotor had corrosion on them. since was all apart anyway, get those out of the way of being my problem. what could be some other causes for my problem if this does not help, i am in the process of putting these new parts on

ct91rs · #13 07-02-2005, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red92rs

took the icm to advanced, and it tested fine, went ahead and got cap & rotor, wired, & plugs, since wires cap & rotor had corrosion on them. since was all apart anyway, get those out of the way of being my problem. what could be some other causes for my problem if this does not help, i am in the process of putting these new parts on

did they run the test a few times? It may depend on the type of testing equipment that they use, but generally speaking, testing it once doesn't make it heat up enough to show that it's bad...

red92rs · #14 07-02-2005, 07:49 PM

yes he tested it several times, and it got nice and hot, and with all that on there now, it makes it a full tune up, plugs & wires, cap & rotor, air & fuel filters... my dad said by the looks of the cap & rotor and wires, they looked stock, since all the wires were numbered.. plugs in it were semi-new, buy i got car from last year said he changed out all the plugs..but they are new ac plugs gapped to .035.... my dad said it might be the fuel pump trying starting to go out, thats what he thinks might be the problem if this doesnt fix it.

red92rs · #15 07-05-2005, 09:33 PM

should i go ahead and replace the coil too, since it is most likely still stock/13 years old... and if so, should i just get a stock replacement, or go for a more stronger one like an accell super coil? havnt had to drive car after it had warmed up so i dont know if it helped the initial problem... but have noticed couple times when i 1st put it in gear 1st time its cranked that it does seem to try to die almost as if it was flooding like if it was carbed, it may sputter a little, then drive on as it should.. and i do smell gas from the exhaust when i crank. if that could be a sign of another problem?

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