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  #1  
Old 06-23-2005, 12:59 PM
ale_k300 ale_k300 is offline
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Spyder Roof Coating

Well... i been the proud owner of a Mitsubishi Spyder 1997 for almost 2 years now, living on the Rainy state of Florida....
My car right now has a big big problem, IT RAINS INSIDE!!!! and when i say it rains it doesn't mean it leaks , IT FREAKIN RAINS!!! few times a month i got to ask my roomate for a ride to work , because my car is soaking wet sitting inside the garage with the roof open trying to get dry, even sometimes when i see that it looks like is gonna rain i run to my car and put a tarp on it so it doesn't get soak inside...
What it looks like that the coating that had under the inside of the roof ( it looked like some kind of fabric ) is just gone now and as i said , it just rains inside... my question is, did any of you guys had a similar problem? the ScotchGuard at this point it really doesn't help ( i tried and i can tell IT DOESN'T HELP ) do i need to replace the whole roof? what do i need to do??? any idea on prices??? because my car is 20 miles away from hitting 100000, and i'm either considering putting some money on it and having it back running like a baby , or just get rid of it.

Anyways, and ideas advices and others will be really appreciated.

Thanks.
Alejandro.

BTW is a Eclipse Spyder 1997
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Old 06-23-2005, 02:14 PM
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spyderturbo007 spyderturbo007 is offline
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Re: Spyder Roof Coating

Were is it leaking? At the seals with the A-pillar is the most common place. Or is yours leaking through the top material?

If it is leaking through the top you will probably need a replacement. With the top closed the fabric you are seeing is there as insulation. between that and the actual canvas top material is a weather guard of sorts. It is an inner plastic liner to keep water from going through the top. If it is coming through the top material you plastic liner is probably shot.

If it is leaking along the rubber weather stripping, you can probably just get new weather stripping and be done with it. Some people try a light coating of lubricant on the seals to keep the water from getting through.

If the car runs good, I wouldn't sell it just because the top leaks.
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1997 Spyder GS-T
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EVO III 16g, DSMLink, Walboro 190 lph Fuel Pump, FIC 650cc injectors, CoolingMist 150psi Methanol Injection, Greddy EVO 2 Cat Back, 2.5" Extreme DP, 2.5" Extreme Hi-Flow Cat, Injen intake, HyperDrive C1 Street Disk & PP, HyperDrive Lightweight Flywheel, 1g BOV, RRE UICP, Home Depot MBC, AEM UEGO WBO2, Brembo Slotted rotors, Akebono Ceramic Pads
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Old 06-23-2005, 03:57 PM
ale_k300 ale_k300 is offline
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Re: Re: Spyder Roof Coating

It is Leaking trough both places, it is leaking trought the top Material, that gets my insulation wet and rains trough it, also it is not attached anymore to the roof so all the weather guard material was just falling over me, and it's really really bad... you got any idea how much costs what i need to replace? and what is exactly??

About the car, it runs really great because i made around 40000 miles on the last year and a half and i didn't have even one mechanic fail, probably the only fix that it needs is replace the wiring, spark plugs and change the timing belt and it will be done... ( How hard is to change the belt on this car? )

Thanks.
Alex.
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Old 06-23-2005, 04:59 PM
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Re: Spyder Roof Coating

The only thing I can recommend for helping seal the top is ScotchGuard-HighTraffic.... as for the seals... If you do a search here you should come across one post where boostedspyder had gone for his weatherstripping... someone else might remember... I do not... You will definately find some good info for the top if ya do a search...GL
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Old 06-23-2005, 05:14 PM
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Re: Re: Spyder Roof Coating

they sell replacement tops search google. they run about 400-600 when I last checked (something I checked before buying my car.)..

They arne't from mitsu but if it works hey id be all for it..
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Old 06-24-2005, 07:58 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Spyder Roof Coating

Quote:
Originally Posted by ale_k300
It is Leaking trough both places
Sounds like you need a new top. Possibly new weatherstripping, but I would wait until you get the top done. I would also go OEM for the top because of fitment/quality issues. But that's just my

Quote:
Originally Posted by ale_k300

( How hard is to change the belt on this car? )
Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. I am comfortable replacing brakes, plugs, fuel filters, swapping trannys, alternators, starters, etc. So I can "turn a wrench", But I would never try the timing belt. Now Kevin (GSXRacer) would replace it one handed, blindfolded and using only a stick of gum, dental floss and only a 12mm socket .
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1997 Spyder GS-T
5-Speed
EVO III 16g, DSMLink, Walboro 190 lph Fuel Pump, FIC 650cc injectors, CoolingMist 150psi Methanol Injection, Greddy EVO 2 Cat Back, 2.5" Extreme DP, 2.5" Extreme Hi-Flow Cat, Injen intake, HyperDrive C1 Street Disk & PP, HyperDrive Lightweight Flywheel, 1g BOV, RRE UICP, Home Depot MBC, AEM UEGO WBO2, Brembo Slotted rotors, Akebono Ceramic Pads
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