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#1
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Knock Sensor...you should read
Well i was reading the FSM and I ran into this paragraph that states:
Knock Sensor Malfunction When the output signal of the knock sensor is abnormal, the ECM judges it to be malfunctioning. When knock sensor is malfunctioning, ignition timing will retard according to operating conditions. Eek...I didnt think it did that, but you learn something new everyday. So I rembered that back when I was at the dealer a while ago, we put the consult on and it pulled a knock sensor code (which is one of the codes that does not trip a check engine light) and he cleared it and told me not to worry about it. Well...I have a JWT ECU so i really didnt feel like having a stupid sensor retard my timing...so I called Jim and he told me that their ECU will still perform that timing retarding function, which is about 5 degrees back. Ouch. Hmm...went down to the car and sure enough pulled a code 34 which was the knock sensor. Went to the FSM to see where that puppy was and wow...is it buried WAY up there attached to the side of the engine. It is basically right about underneath the intake manifold in the center of the block. For this you need to jack the car up (jackstands or garage with lift) and reach WAY up in the middle right past the center support and exhaust. Note: DEFINITELY let the car cool down alot before doing this. The bolt is a 12mm and I tried every combination of socket/swivel heads that you could think of, but there was too much crap around it. So I finally took a 12mm wrench and managed to manuever my hand up there enough to get just enough leverage to move that tight bolt. Note: There is only one wire running to the sensor...so dont freak out like I did ![]() Per the FSM, I used a multimeter to check the connectivity in Ohms between the "A" connector on the knock sensor and a ground. None...so I had a bad knock sensor. So onto searching for a new part. Becuase this is a somewhat critical part on the car I didnt want it giving false readings and potentially sensing false knock. An aftermarket one probably would be ok, but I didnt want to take the chance. I found one from Bosch for like $102, but I opted for the Nissan one at $155. I guess if im spending that much I might as well get the real deal. Especially cuz I didnt want to have to go through the trouble of replacing one of those again. Note: They usually dont stock these, so be prepared to wait a day... or order one in advance if you think you need it. So just something that you guys might all wanna check...becuase it *does* affect your timing if it goes bad, but no check engine light, only a code.
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-Brian Jones I got a snake man |
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#2
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do you have a DET? just wondering cause you have a JWT ecu.
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#3
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Nah ...no DET...i got the ECU pretty cheap to I decided to throw it in...i guess cuz i know im gonna use it later when i DO install the DET
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-Brian Jones I got a snake man |
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#4
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Do you know what the torque specs are for the bolt?
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Ron 1994 Blue G20T ShigSpeed Coilover, 17" Dronell TS05 wheels |
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#5
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knock sensor torque settings = 24 Nm or 18 lbf ft
word of warning, be very careful how you handle the unit, dropping its or a hard knock will damage it.
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UK's 1st Turbo'd Primera GT Please visit my site www.p11-gt.co.uk Updated 7/3/2003 Some Exterior Mods to go now. Vote for my car at www.ridejudge.com user name P11GT ![]() VRRRROOOOOOMMM TIIISSSSSSHHHTT!!! |
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