tires/ lift kit

[obee25]

hey everyone,

I'm a newbie to this forum and to offroading in general.

I really would like to get new, slightly larger tires and put a 1-2" lift kit on my wrangler. Can anyone tell me a) where i could go to trade in my current tires (they still have a large amount of tread on them) and b) what's the easiest/cheapest lift kit to install?

any help would be appreciated

thanks

[wilwith1l]

Hang on to those tires. With the way gas prices are going, I am wishing I had some street tires in the shed.
If all you want is 2", just get a budget boost from rubicon express(TJ). But in my opinion you should get an extra inch and replace the springs. World of differance off-road.

[CanaMark]

Do a body lift, cheapest way to go. You can do new springs. Do a SOA, also gains a few inches. Can look into spring conversion, long arm. I will be doing the SOA, SYE, 4" springs.

Dana 35's can only do up to 31 or 33" tires
Dana 44's I do think will do 35"+ up to a certain size
Dana 60's is top of the line, up to 46" dot rating (street legal)

Once you get into 3"+ lift you have to start thinking about geometry. SYE etc.

[fredjacksonsan]

If you're looking to get rid of your tires, you are probably better off selling them. You may be able to get rid of them at some discount used tire store, but they won't give you what you'd get from a private sale. What size are they?


As far as lift kits, check at places like quadratec.com and 4wd.com. I've found their customer reps to be both helpful and knowledgeable.

[wilwith1l]

Body lifts are cheap. Anything more than 1.5" is risky for serious wheeling, or any crawling. Not to mention they don't look so hot, and there is no performance benifiet. Your axles, engine, tranni, and steering box still sit low. It should only be used for tire clearance issues. 3" body lift is out of the question. It's a 3.5" chunk of polyurathane, I've seen them shift and break. I've seen the bolts shift and turn the whole body 1/2". If you do go 1" it's best to go ahead and raise the motor mounts 1" as well, so you don't have to lower the radiator, and leave it vulnerable to tree limbs and road stones. No offense to anyone, that's just my opinion.

[Simmonz]

Ok, first off as far as the replacing the springs goes it does make a world of difference off-road, but it also makes a world of difference on-road too. And the body lift; Yea its cheap but Im wishing now that I never even had one. My '94 YJ came with 2" of body lift and it has successfully thrown off my shifter completely. I can no longer have a drink in the drink holder when reversing. In the winter time when its nice and cold, the rubber boot for the shifter hardens a bit and will push or simply keep my transmision out of 2nd gear. I would suggest against body lifts that are any larger than 1"! I love my 2" suspension lift. But then it cost a lot more than that stupid body lift...

[wilwith1l]

You can take the body lift off, not hard. I think Petterson's did a 2 piece article on removing a 3" body lift from a ranger a couple of months ago.

[Simmonz]

Im planning on taking it off as soon as I get my BDS 4.5". Thanks for the mag. name though... I was just going to be "winging it"

[wilwith1l]

Were you planning on going back to stock, or down to 1"? Both mount sets will probably cost about the same, as you need new Grade 8 bolts no matter what.

[o|||||||o]

I fyou would provide a little more information about your Jeep I would be happy to give you my opinion.

If you do have a TJ, I would say the BB (Budget Boost) is probably your best bet. Combine that with a body lift and you have quite the capable vehicle for very little money.

I have a BB and a 1" body lift on my Rubi and I am very happy with the performance.

[Simmonz]

Originally Posted by wilwith1l

Were you planning on going back to stock, or down to 1"? Both mount sets will probably cost about the same, as you need new Grade 8 bolts no matter what.

Im putting it back down at stock height. Im going to pick up the 11 bolts I need tommorow. Since the bushings were left on, I figure it shouldn't cost me more than $10. Hopefully....

[wilwith1l]

I didn't know you still had the factory bushings. Makes sure you grab Grade 8 hardware.

My buddy has a RE BB & 1" BL, and he gets no flex on is 33"s. He scored less than 450 on the RTI. I scorred over 800 with 4.5 SA on 31"s

[o|||||||o]

Originally Posted by wilwith1l

I didn't know you still had the factory bushings. Makes sure you grab Grade 8 hardware.

My buddy has a RE BB & 1" BL, and he gets no flex on is 33"s. He scored less than 450 on the RTI. I scorred over 800 with 4.5 SA on 31"s

Connected or disconnected swaybar? That sounds way off. I can do much, much better than that w/ the BB/BL combo on 33s.

[o|||||||o]

Oh, and is he hitting the factory flares? I replaced the OEM flares with Warn 6" flares and now I can tuck right up in there...

[wilwith1l]

He was connected. But has no flares at all(we can get away with that down here.) His back tire came up. So was I when I pulled a little over 800. Disconnected, and got just under 875.