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#1 | |
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AF Regular
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Boothwyn, Pennsylvania
Posts: 213
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I'm havin a few problems with my 93 auto 240SX. To start I put a new aftermarket rad. on it and now the intake pipe is gettin hot because it touches the rad.(aluminum). the 2nd thing is that the tranny is leakin I think its because the last owner scraped it a few times, so now its cracked(Could be just a seal problem hard to tell without takin it apart) Dont have a welder so I was wondering if there is something i can put in the ATF to seal it. Or could I use some JB weld? (only leaks when its hot)
The last thing is that I have to replace the ball joint in the lower control arm(got one from junkyard because the one on the car is twisted,drifted into a curb to avoid bein smashed by a mack truck!) anyway I was wondering if I could press this without using a press?(got no money becuz of court,fines,lawyers,bitches,etc..) any advice would be greatly appreciated!! -about car "And when I leave it comes together like buttcheeks" |
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#2 | |
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AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 3,277
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Re: How to fix some problems with my 240
i replaced the ball joint in my 89 hatch with just hand tools its very possible.
the tranny fluid isnt really pressurized so it wont blow a jbwelded seal but still id just replace the tranny. you should be able to get one for less than 100 bucks. i would NOT use any ATF stopleaks because more often than not they are bullshit and are really only meant to sort of revitalize gaskets, not actually stop cracks
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#3 | |
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AF Regular
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Boothwyn, Pennsylvania
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Re: Re: How to fix some problems with my 240
[quote=slideways...]i replaced the ball joint in my 89 hatch with just hand tools its very possible
How did u do this? I plan on dropin a new motor and a manual trans. just need to nigrig until i blow this one. |
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#4 | |
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AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 3,277
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Re: How to fix some problems with my 240
remove the pin, castle nut, and i cant remember but i think there was a snapring also that held it in the control arm. then just use a hammer to knock out the ball joint. it took me a while and a lot of penetrating oil, tons of hammering, and many many bad words, but it came out. and mine was pretty rusty as i live in MN where all cars have salt dmg
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