Quad Driver circuits

[aidcop]

I am receiving codes 27 & 28 which turn out to be quad driver faults. Can anyone tell me what sensors these drivers control and how to troubleshoot them? The ECM was recently changed.

Thanks

[sellncars]

We are going to need more information. Year, Engine, Trans? GT, Se??

Thanks,
Sellncars

Originally Posted by aidcop

I am receiving codes 27 & 28 which turn out to be quad driver faults. Can anyone tell me what sensors these drivers control and how to troubleshoot them? The ECM was recently changed.

Thanks

[aidcop]

Sorry;

92 SE model. 3.3L but I'm not sure which transmission is on it. I don't have an over-drive.

Thanks

[sellncars]

Code 27 & 28 are transmission codes. They are both for pressure operated switch's. Code 27 is for 3rd gear and code 28 is for 2nd gear. I would suggest taking your car to a transmission specialist.

Good luck,
Sellncars

Originally Posted by aidcop

Sorry;

92 SE model. 3.3L but I'm not sure which transmission is on it. I don't have an over-drive.

Thanks

[aidcop]

It's funny that you say transmission. I recently had the transmission rebuilt at Cottman Transmission in Bensalem PA. After about 200 miles, the transmission was slipping when I tried to pass. I took the car back and their statement "you must be a hard driver because one of the plates was gouged".

The "plate" was repaired and the car ran great. Recently, the car started to shut off after about 5-10 minutes and would not start again without waiting about 10-15 minutes. I troubleshot this and found that I had fuel, but no spark. I had the correct voltage going into the ignition module but nothing out. I replaced the ICM and all three coil packs (as recommended) and lo and behold, that did not fix the problem. Since I had the battery disconnected during this problem, the computer reset and now I get code 39 which is the TCC circuit.

The car is now at Cottman and they are trying to tell me that the timing chain jumped and they cant get it started. I explained that if they let it cool down, it will not only start, but run great (so much for the timing chain theory).

Before I get myself locked up, can anyone put this together and fill me in on what the real problem may be so that I can tell these morons how to do their job?

Thanks

Jim

[sellncars]

The non starting thing, then restarting after a few minutes sounds like a crank sensor problem, but there isnt a code for that. When a crank sensor goes bad that is what the car will do. You can drive it until it heats up and then it just shuts off, pull over and let it sit and cool down, then it restarts.

Good luck,
Sellncars

Originally Posted by aidcop

It's funny that you say transmission. I recently had the transmission rebuilt at Cottman Transmission in Bensalem PA. After about 200 miles, the transmission was slipping when I tried to pass. I took the car back and their statement "you must be a hard driver because one of the plates was gouged".

The "plate" was repaired and the car ran great. Recently, the car started to shut off after about 5-10 minutes and would not start again without waiting about 10-15 minutes. I troubleshot this and found that I had fuel, but no spark. I had the correct voltage going into the ignition module but nothing out. I replaced the ICM and all three coil packs (as recommended) and lo and behold, that did not fix the problem. Since I had the battery disconnected during this problem, the computer reset and now I get code 39 which is the TCC circuit.

The car is now at Cottman and they are trying to tell me that the timing chain jumped and they cant get it started. I explained that if they let it cool down, it will not only start, but run great (so much for the timing chain theory).

Before I get myself locked up, can anyone put this together and fill me in on what the real problem may be so that I can tell these morons how to do their job?

Thanks

Jim

[micronot]

I am having a similar problem, however, I am getting spark, but the injectors quit firing. (92 Grand Am SE, 3.3L)

I would assume that if I lost both spark and injectors, then it would be the crank sensor, but since I am still getting spark, I assume the crank sensor is good.

The injectors just stop firing. The hot wire to the injectors is getting 12V, so I would assume a computer issue. When you first crank the key, it tries to start for a split second. If I shoot some starting fluid in it, it will start til the fluid runs out.

I had some injectors that were reading too low of resistance, so they were drawing too much current. They were ~4ohm when the others were ~12ohm. I replaced the low ohm injectors and the car ran fine for 3 days, but now the problem is back.

Could it be that the bad injectors made the computer go bad?