Final plea for help, long post please read!! Post any suggestions!! THANKS!!

[EDMUND65]

Ok guys I would like some help if anyone could. I’m going to give you everything I know, from ground up.

All started when I was surfing Ebay, I’m sorry I’m addicted to looking at things I can’t afford. Always wanted an Eagle Talon Turbo AWD 5 speed, but would settle for non turbo 5 speed.

I saw this eagle on Ebay located only 160 miles away from me. Had 83,000 miles, air conditioning (non-operative), 5-speed, no sun roof, spoiler, bright red. I called the kid up and arranged to pick up the car because he said it was an awesome car, guaranteed everything, and was in tip top shape… except for the engine light was on and the transmission didn’t work in fourth gear.
We agreed to meet him at an exit on the New York State throughway. When we showed up he wasn’t there, I called him he was on his way. I was eagerly looking for a red Talon in good shape to pull in.

Finally I saw it, looked great from 20 feet away, unfortunately after looking at and around it for 20 minutes I noticed it needed the following: transaxle, clutch (slipping), new tires (all had wires showing from misalignment), passenger door (crack and it was bon-doed to fix a rust spot that went bad), Freon charge, o2 sensor, brakes all around, front wheel bearings, front right tie rod, a hood (from deer), and a paint job(due to clear coat pealing on bumper and rear spoiler), had the worse idle surge I ever heard in my life. The car also idled rough.

The kid wanted 1,500$ for the car. I took one look at the car, then at him then shook my head. I offered him 700$ he was like fu** that. So I walked back to my truck with car hauler and sat there disappointed because you know a kid that’s supposed to buy a car is going to be disappointed. The car wasn’t worth the 1500$. Me sitting in the truck disappointed, the kid walked back up to the truck tapped on the window and offered 900$. I replied, I’ll meet you in the middle 800$. I bought a 1992 Eagle Talon equipped with the 2.0 16-v engine, A/C, p/w, p/l, c/c, tilt wheel. Said

SOLD!! Even with the bad tires I made the drive (150 miles back to East Syracuse New York with the stereo blaring and the cruise set on 74mph). On the way home the car didn’t like 2nd gear or 4th, when I got off the throughway 5th didn’t want to work anymore, by now I lost faith in this poorly taken care of DSM. I bought a 1992 Eagle Talon equipped with the 2.0 16-v engine. When I got home I did the following, brakes all around, tires all around, new transaxle from junk yard, front wheel bearings, front left tie rod, new plugs, and oil change.

Got it home and it has the worse idle surge. Start it up cold it will not surge, after it warms up and I’m at a stop light I get a bad idle surge, so to fix this I replaced: plugs NGK’s, wires, reset the timing to 10 degrees because it stalls out and runs like shit at 8 degrees, then adjusted the idle. This is all going on at running temperature, no fans on, the base timing is grounded out. So timing is at ten degrees, then I grounded out the 10th pin on the DLC under the dash to set idle.

WHOLY CRAP was that idle screw out all the way. I turned the idle down to 1100 and the engine struggles to run at 900, sounds like its going to die then it does, so I leave it at 1100-1200 right in there. Well at this point I was getting mad and got fuel rail, fuel injectors, ignition coil, ignition coil power transistor, new used computer out of a damn good running car, crank positioning sensor, MAF sensor, new throttle closed sensor, all the vacuum lines that run from the top of the throttle body, to the coolant thingy (sorry), the line that runs to the EGR valve, the lines running to the surge tank, also the lines that run to that sensor on the fire wall. Car still runs bad… like a rough idle warm or cold….

Now currently today, I have a bad warm/cold start. I will get in the car, turn the key to on, normally start the car, it will go to 1500 rpm and come down to 500 rpm almost dying , lights on the dash come on then go off because the RPM runs back to 1300 then almost dies again going to about 500RPM, then tries to stay idling at 1200. That happens almost anytime the car sits more than 10 min hot or cold…
I did put a full exhaust system on it, but even with the stock system it still ran like it does now… Had it in the barn tonight and took out the BISS screw, seemed the rubber ring was worn a little bit but nothing big I believe. Put the screw back in exactly where I had it set. Then I was looking for more vacuum lines to replace and I found one on the end of the fuel rail that when I take it off the end of the fuel rail it would idle up to about 1500 and stay there and you could hear the massive vacuum it had on it, I would plug it and it would go down to like 1200 RPM.

Then I let go and it would go back up to the 1500, then reconnected and it seemed to go right back down. Still idling rough, I’m not to sure what to do, timing belt was changed along with all the other belts; the cylinders have 175 PSI compression all across. I used to pull code “Ignition coil power transistor, but I replaced that… would anyone think that putting in a brand new battery and I high output alternator would maybe solve it, I’m running a little system in my car but nothing to cause something that dramatic. I’m going to have the charging system diagnosed to see if everything is where it should be. So maybe that will tell us something… thanks if you read this far, maybe someone will know…..ARGGGGGGGGGG DSMMMMMM!!!!!! lol

Edit: if you like im almost always on AIM at night my SN is crazydriver7686, drop me a note!

[Nstyle29]

When i had my idle surging problems it was the TPS that had gone bad, but my idle was high not low...so not sure if that is what it would be or not.

[kjewer1]

With the timing stuff grounded, the ECU might hold the ISC at the center of its travel. I cant verify thatwithout watching it on a logge rthough. If it did, you could simply set the BISS for 800 rpm, and be done with it. After making large BISS changes the motor will run like shit. Just like fuel trims, learned ISC position takes a good 5-10 minutes of idling to adjust to the changes. Remember that the BISS is not there to adjust idle speed, but to center the ISC when the motor is running at target idle speed. Too many things could be causing this problem to list. Try www.vfaq.com, and www.crebotech.com for some ideas. Follow the gameplans they have listed and validate each part, one at a time.

[EDMUND65]

nothign else guys? any suggestions really anything!!

[kjewer1]

Forgive me I'm missing something here... but this is my next suggestion.

Type into a wordpad document "I'm too lazy to take these suggestions seriously and go outside to do some work, please engage automatic internet fix!" in red letters with a really large font. Save it as "autofix" on your hard drive. The car will run the balls. Works every time.

[EclipseRST]

Holy Shit it worked!!! Thanks Kevin! What an awesome idea.


Some people just dont get it!

[EDMUND65]

you dont think i've tryed what you said? why do you ahve to be an asshole?

[EclipseRST]

Hpw cmoe ypo cna't sepll and follow teh rlues?

If you try something, don't just say "nothing else guys"? You had suggestions and you didn't say you tried any of them! Explain what you did so we can then go on to figure out what else could be causing your car to do what its doing. Process of elimination, have you heard of it?

Why do I have to be an asshole you say? Because I am an asshole. I will always be one so get over it. And personally, no I dont think you tried what he suggested cause if you did you would have came back and said "I tried that and it didnt help any, what else can I do guys?" Also I highly doubt Kevin is going to want to help you have you calling us assholes. Your a n00b disrespecting a knowledgable member that will most likely be your best source of info on this site. So remember that the next time you start calling people assholes when they are just trying to help you!

[kjewer1]

Let me take a moment to explain the way this works. I do not get paid to do this. I dont have huge amounts of free time to donate. I can not take the time to post every possible test and solution that I am aware of, just so tomorrow someone else can ask the same question in another thread. I post the most likely and/or quickest and easiests tests for you to perform. You try that, post exactly what you did and exactly what the results were. I Then formulate some logical conclusion, as best I can from 3000 miles away, and suggest what I think is the next logical step. And repeat. Until its fixed or we have exhausted all options. This is the same method I use to keep my lemon running, hit low 11s on a blown motor, and generally destroy most cars and bikes that I have raced. Logical thought process makes everything possible.

That being said, we can still help you get to the bottom of this, but you have to do all the work and provide all the info. We can't read your mind, or see/hear/feel what your car is doing. Thats up to you.

I also mentioned previously that there are too many potential problems for me to list, so I was thoughtful enough to include the links to to great resoures, one dedicated solely to idle control problems. No one handed me what I know about these cars. I take the info from sites like that, and go outside and teach myself how these sytems work. Once you know how they work, you should then be able to determine how to diagnose and repair them.

Good luck with it, I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

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