|
|
| Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | Air Dried Fresh Beef Dog Food | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
A/C compressor
My A/C compressor will not turn on at all. I checked the fuses and they seemed fine. The fuse box under the hood has a fuse (or what looks like a fuse) called A/C CLU DIODE, I assume that is A/C clutch. Does anyone know how to test this? Or has anyone had a similar problem with there A/C?
Also, I ran a temporary wire from my battery to the compressor, with the engine running the clutch kicks in, so I know it's working. Thanks, Dom |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
I recently had the AC Clutch Relay go out on me. You can see what I did below.
http://www.links-to-golf.com/van/air...ner-relay.html You also have to have enough freon pressure for the computer to turn on the compressor (you could have a leak). Take care,
__________________
Greg A. 2001 Chevy Venture w/some "enhancements" ~ 105K Miles (Dec. 2010) 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L, Automatic ~ 155K Miles (Dec 2010) |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Well I tried the relay, that didn't work. I guess I'll have to have the freon serviced, thanks.
|
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
In addition to what Greg said;
Usually, the compressor's protection system, would also refuse to energize the A/C clutch, if there's not enough refrigerant or compressor oil in the system. You should have your A/C checked for low refrigerant level and perform a leak test on the system. The A/C clutch diode's sole function, is to block the high voltage spike that is being produced when the A/C clutch's coil cycles the compressor on and off, thus protecting the van's computer/radio and all other delicate electronics from being fried by the spike. The diode is reverse biased (infinite resistance), when installed in the circuit. When the clutch disengages, it produce a voltage spike that makes the diode to be forward biased (low resistance), thus shorting the voltage spike produced by the clutch's coil and protecting the van's electronics. If the diode is open (infinite resistance on both polarities), you're at risk. If the diode is shorted, the fuse will blow. Don't rush out to your car to "test the diode", without first disconnecting the battery, or removing the A/C clutch relay, otherwise, you could end up with a dead Ohmmeter! P.S take a close look at the orientation of the diode in the fuse block (To see how it looks, take a look at the link provided by Greg), prior to testing it, and make sure you put it back in the same orientation (I dunno, but the diode is probably keyed, anyway, preventing you from installing it in forward bias polarity). Yves. Last edited by ypelchat; 06-07-2005 at 11:26 PM. |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Well we put some freon in the system and the compressor started to work, but it looks like I have a leak in the condenser, (rock or something hit it) this should be fun to change.
Thanks, Dom |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: A/C compressor
Quote:
I had it done by a "trusted shop" -- way too much work for me. Condenser Replaced Good luck
__________________
Greg A. 2001 Chevy Venture w/some "enhancements" ~ 105K Miles (Dec. 2010) 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L, Automatic ~ 155K Miles (Dec 2010) |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Well I decided to change the condensor myself and it wasn't to bad of a job. About 2 hours to remove and another 2 hours to install.
New condensor= $150.00 Evac and charge the system= $105.00 Happy wife= PRICELESS |
|
![]() |
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
![]() |
|
|