Reverse not always there??

[toni1595]

Well its just like the subject says, sometimes when the wife puts the van in reverse it doesn't always go right into gear. If you rev it up, like I did one day, it kind of jumps into gear.?? Almost as if it was related to the torque converter not engaging the tranny. It seems to go in the forward gears fine. This problem is only the reverse gear.

Now I read somewhere in the archives about the MAF sensor will sometimes cause a problem in that the computer won't sense air going by it and delay the shifting, does this sound like that would be it or wouldn't it also cause a problem with the forward gears as well?


I've checked the fluid and it is up to full and doesn't smell burned at all to me.


One thing she said was that the gear selector kind of slips by occasionally, but, I haven't noticed this. Could be a linkage problem I guess. The strange part is that it doesn't always do it. It seems to be a random thing with no set pattern. It will do it whether warm or cold. Also, I am not getting any check engine lights either.

Anyone have any thoughts as to what I should look at? Thanks, Toni.

[trannyman52]

reverse requires no electronics,,,,,reverse input shell {stove pipe} is damaged

[toni1595]

First of all thanks trannyman for your input. I guess your familiar with transmissions by your online name.

Could you expand on this "stovepipe" you refer to? Where would I look for this part? What does it do? Sounds like a vent of some sort.

Do you think I'll have to take it to a transmission shop for a diagnosis? THere is a place near here called "Cottman's" that will do a check for free. Probably hoping for some business afterwards. Toni.

[cdru]

I beleive he is actually talking about an internal component of the transmission, meaning that unless you know what you are doing, take it to someone who does.

[toni1595]

Well I am pretty handy for the most part, but, when it comes to automatic transmissions, the only thing that I have done is to pull a few out and put used ones in. Which is what I may end up doing with this one before its all said and done.

I think I'm going to have her take it to the tranny place and let them check it out to see what they can find.

One guy I've talked to said that I should change the fluid and filter, but , I did that one time on a used one that I was going to put in didn't work after that. So I just picked up another and put it in "as is" and it ran forever. Who knows?????? Toni.

[trannyman52]

It's an internal part ,,, reverse input shell ,,,,,made of hardened light guage metal,,,,,aftermarket makes a heavier one,,,,requires R&R to replace,,,most shops go for the total rebuild,,,,mainly for warranty issues!!!!

[trannyman52]

OH YA !!!!! a flush,,,,,,,,,fluid & filter,,,,,,tranny-in-a-can,,,,,can also cure a rainy day!!!!!!!

[toni1595]

Yes Trannyman I agree with you on that. If its damaged internally no amount of cure-all in a bottle is going to help.

But how in the heck did this reverse shell get damaged? I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have been caused by the wife driving it. At least I'm quite sure she don't do donuts out in the street!!

So it requires an R&R to do it. Do you think its something that a weekend warrior could do?? I've done a few head gaskets and engine changes. As well as struts, brakes, etc. Is it very difficult to take the tranny out and repair??

On another note, do you feel that it could come to the point where it just wouldn't go into reverse?? ........It does always go in, but, sometimes you have to wait a couple seconds or so.

Anyway thanx for your help thus far. At least you've given me some thing to go on. Toni.

[toni1595]

Bump.........Trannyman, you there????????

In your opinion what do you think is the best option??
1. Take it to the local dealer for a replacement, (rebuild) $1900 est.
2. Pickup a used trans. and install myself, Around $ 700.
3. Take it to Cottmans' Transmission for a rebuild. Cost yet to be determined. Probably at least $1000.
4. Remove myself and rebuild it, reinstall.
5. Dump it and cut my losses, although who would buy it with a bad tranny!!!!!!


So what do you think???? Toni.

[cdru]

My .02 worth:
1. I wouldn't bother. Dealers want too much. You'd be much better off going to a trany shop. Besides, it's likely that the dealer would just drive down the road to the same shop (or the equivilent) to pick one up anyways, so you might as well take out the middle man

2. An option, but you can probably do better then $700. The problem with a used transmission is that you don't know it's history. It could go 100k miles without problem, or it could go 10 feet and have the exact same problem. If indeed it is $700, for just a few hudred more you could...

3. ...get a new (rebuilt) transmission. Possibly your best bet. Going this route, you know that the transmission likely won't have any problems, and if it does, it should be covered under a warranty provided by the shop. The other advantage is that they do all the labor to get it in and out. I haven't removed mine, but judging from everything around it, I don't beleive it's as simple as removing a dozen bolts and dropping it down.

4. Wouldn't even consider it if indeed it needs rebuilt. If you are asking here what you should do, you likely don't have the necessary experience to correctly do the entire process.

5. Your vehicle is likely worth more then the cost of a new transmission. Think of it this way: figure out what it's worth if it was fully operational. Then subtract what you think you can get out of it in a non-working state (use realistic numbers...not optimistic numbers). If the difference is the same or more then the cost of the repair, it's economically feasable to repair it.

So what do you think???? Toni.[/quote]

[trannyman52]

I can be contacted at [email protected] ,,,,,On which way to repair,,,depends on what your doing with it VS $$$$$$,,,that transaxle assy is used in many gm fwds,,,,good used is fine ,,especially if you find a re-man in a wrecking yard...If you drive long distances,,,the GM re-man is the only way to go 3yr-100,000 mi warranty I THINK !!! good in all of north america,,, work does not have to be done by a dealer...
self repair isn't that bad ,,,BUT then I have done a few,,,,,er,,,lots of them....If you have never played with this STUFF,,,you could get lost,,,lotsa gizmos in thar !!!!!

if you want to tear it out ,,,i'll try to help you with it ,,,,worst that can happen,,,hafta find a different one!!!!!!

[toni1595]

O.K. Here's where we are thus far. First, thanks guys for your candid advice. That alone is worth alot to me, especially trannyman for your generous offer of R&R assistance...... The Wife has an appointment set up for Sat. @ 9:30 A.M., and she thinks I should be with her. This will complete all of my options list, of which I've already ruled out a couple, (thanks cdru).......... One thing I just realized while reading trannyman's post was that this is a front wheel drive!! Duh. Never really gave that much thought!!..... Does that mean that you have to drop the drive axles off?? Or does the whole works come right down off the engine itself?? Wow, this is getting a little scary now!! RIght now I'm definitely leaning towards having this one done by the tranny shop. I don't want to wimp out, but, I really don't want to do more damage by trying this myself and getting into a mess and then have to have it towed to the shop to straighten out my ****.

Anywho I'll let you guys know what they find out when they do their check and the estimate for the work. Mean while I'm trying to get her to not use it so much as I'm quite sure it isn't helping it out by running it around town everyday................Toni.

[cdru]

The drive shafts will have to come out at a minimum.

The 30-second repair procedure summary is:
1. Install engine support bracket (large bar that holds engine in place from the top.
2. Remove engine mount struts
3. Remove cables and lines going to transmission
4. Remove 3 top transaxle bolts and 1 stud
5. Raise vehicle
6. Remove wheels, splash shields, and tie rod ends.
7. Unbolt and move power steering gear out of the way
8. Remove lower engine mount nuts
9. Remove lower ball joints from nuckles
10. Remove torque converter cover
11. Remove starter
12. Remove torque converter bolts
13. Drain transaxle fluid
14. Remove oil cooler lines
15. Remove drive axle ends from the transaxle and secure out of the way. Leave the other ends in the steering nuckles.
16. Disconnect any remaining sensor wires or hoses you may have missed
17. Support transaxle on a transmission jack or the like.
18. Remove transaxle brace, and remaining bolts/studs holding it on
19. Remove frame body bolts.
20. Lower the fransaxle and frame from the vehicle
21. Remove transaxle from the frame.

There. See. That's not too hard. Shouldn't take you more then 10 or 15 minutes. Remember, you haven't even STARTED to fix your problem...your just getting started. Plus you have to put it all back together. How much is that all worth to you?

(Looking back, I am thankful the only vehicle that I've only had to do transmission work on was my 90 and 91 Talons...under an hour if you are good. Our trannys look like a beast to get out.)

[toni1595]

So cdru I'm assuming that you have a Chevy Venture as well. I hope that you haven't had the problems that we have had. Of course we did buy it used so its a crap shoot at best, not really knowing its past history, it MAY have not been driven by an old lady to church on Sunday. LOL.

SO far I haven't been real impressed with this one. We had to replace the rear window wiper motor-$130. And we had a airbag light which ended up costing us about the same as the wiper motor, but the labor at $65/ hour, the money adds up quick. Thats not even mentioning the intake manifold gasket job (which we knew about before we bought it), and got a deal on it, the van that is.

Before that we had a Dodge Caravan. Which we figured was a decent vehicle, at least it got a lot of press. Good car if you could keep a head gasket in it. We ended up putting 3 in it!!!! Then again you had the paint peeling debacle, I'll never forget when we took it to the local Dodge dealer and all he could talk about was us trading up to a newer one!! What the hell would I want another one of these pieces of crap for??




Well I guess I've rambled on enough, but, do you see what I'm getting at?? GM is talking about laying off 25,000 people, claim that the foreign competition is hurting business. Hey, hello!! Start getting a quality vehicle on the market!! Instead of screwing their customers!! Thats what the people want! I read regularly on this forum and others where they say- thats the last GM or Chrysler or Ford whatever..... Frankly can you blame them!! We all can't afford to trade up every 2 or 3 years so they have a constant warranty. I buy a car hoping and praying I can keep it going until the payments are done!!

Next time I'm going with a Honda or Toyota van. I'm through with American. I should have done it this time, but I thought I'd give GM a try. Well I can see what I got, SCREWED. I'm sticking with my rice-burner Subaru, runs great and fairly easy to repair. Toni.


Oh and by the way thanks cdru for the trans. removal list. It looks like something I DON'T need to be doing!! Frankly I have enough to do with a full time job and trying to remodel my folks homestead in between. I think I got enough on my plate as it is.

[cdru]

Every vehicle has a laundry list of problems. Yeah a few people might have similar problems with a particular component, but it doesn't make it an epidemic worthy of a class action lawsuit. The U-platform vehicles are one of the most popular minivans on the road. For every 1 you read about here, there is probably dozens that you won't ever read about. Overall, I have been very satisfied with my vehicle. It's actually not a Venture but a 98 Trans Sport (Montana). Up until last fall, I really hadn't had any problems with it since I purchased it used in '01 with 71,000 miles. It not has around 154k miles and the biggest things that I've replaced are: tires (wear), break (wear), shocks (wear), intake gasket 2x, first was a cheap aftermarket to save a buck, 2nd was the OEM to do it right (design defect), head gasket (not a design defect...but common for some reason), fuel level sending gauge (design defect), heater core (just dumb luck).

The head gasket is too commonly a problem for it to be dumb luck. The intake gasket is obviously the biggest ding on the U-platform list. And the sending unit is a common problem across many vehicles and manufacturers relating to sulfer in the gas attacking the carbon wipers. Other then these 3 things, everything else I put under "routine maitenance" and have been plesently suprised that I haven't had to do more of it after 150k miles.